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10-16-2019, 05:21 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Falkner
Posts: 13
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Door latching
Purchased new Eagle 355MBQS in April and have had trouble with the door since we bought it. Always having to slam the door to get it to latch. At one point we were driving across Texas and noticed the handle had come undone and was at a 90 degree angle with the door having come open - and this was with both the deadbolt and latch locked.
We went straight to a dealer and they took a 3/4 inch drill bit to the door jam to get the deadbolt to lock fully and that stopped the door from coming open going down the road, and we've had the door completely replaced since then but we're still having to slam the door to shut it - often multiple times before it will latch.
We are going back to get the door replaced again in a a couple of weeks, but thought I'd see if anyone had some advice.
Thanks!
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10-16-2019, 08:41 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kingston
Posts: 1,210
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Every exposed latch, hinge, operator, items, Some use the dry WD-40 Lube
I use this (Both have the PTFE).
__________________
Don & Donna Stout
E-9 Anchor Clanker
Full timers since 2010
2017 North Point 381 DLQS
2015 F-250 6.7 w/Timbrens
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10-16-2019, 08:48 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Natalbany Creek Campground, Amite City, LA
Posts: 3,244
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I use a silicone paste on all my latches and for the male end of my 50 amp power cord because it is also dielectric grease. This stuff works great and does not attract dust & dirt.
https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Autom...dDbGljaz10cnVl
__________________
AL & JANET KRUEBBE
2019 PINNACLE 37RLWS
2018 NORTH POINT 315RLTS (TRADED)
2017 RAM 3500 DRW DIESEL/AISIN 4.10 AIR BAGS
B&W COMPANION TURN OVER BALL HITCH
Formerly from Sequim, WA
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10-17-2019, 04:46 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Falkner
Posts: 13
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Thanks for the info - once we get the new door in I'll see about those products to help the latch and hinges. Was just strange to hear the service folks recommend changing the leveling to get the door to close and latch. Even stranger that it worked
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10-17-2019, 05:31 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Waukesha
Posts: 608
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When we picked our up two years ago the door was not square new one was ordered and replaced.
__________________
Rod and Linda
SE Wisconsin
2018 330RSTS
2015 Silverado 2500
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10-17-2019, 07:11 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kingston
Posts: 1,210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fchnjyh
Thanks for the info - once we get the new door in I'll see about those products to help the latch and hinges. Was just strange to hear the service folks recommend changing the leveling to get the door to close and latch. Even stranger that it worked
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Do you have auto level? And did you have to recalibrate. I do agree these rigs have a bit of flex to them..
__________________
Don & Donna Stout
E-9 Anchor Clanker
Full timers since 2010
2017 North Point 381 DLQS
2015 F-250 6.7 w/Timbrens
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10-17-2019, 07:47 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Belchertown
Posts: 6
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Had the same issue with my 2020. Had to adjust door frame striker plate. Factory screws holding striker plate were garbage. Drilled pilot home into frame of wall and ran a longer stainless screw in to secure plate in correctly. Added bit of dry lube to lock mechanism and havnt had any issues since
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10-17-2019, 08:09 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Natalbany Creek Campground, Amite City, LA
Posts: 3,244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drbuley
Had the same issue with my 2020. Had to adjust door frame striker plate. Factory screws holding striker plate were garbage. Drilled pilot home into frame of wall and ran a longer stainless screw in to secure plate in correctly. Added bit of dry lube to lock mechanism and havnt had any issues since
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I also had to bend the striker plate catch toward the outside a little. Now my door latches firm and tight with little effort. I think it takes a while for these doors to "break-in".
__________________
AL & JANET KRUEBBE
2019 PINNACLE 37RLWS
2018 NORTH POINT 315RLTS (TRADED)
2017 RAM 3500 DRW DIESEL/AISIN 4.10 AIR BAGS
B&W COMPANION TURN OVER BALL HITCH
Formerly from Sequim, WA
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10-17-2019, 06:16 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Falkner
Posts: 13
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Thanks all -
Yes, we do have auto-level. I end up using the manual panel inside which sometimes works and gets the door to close. But it came take 4 or more really good slams to get it to stay closed. Everyone at the parks seem to really love that. /s
It looks to me like the door doesn't "latch" which leans me toward the idea of bending the strike plate toward the outside if this new door is still an issue. FWIW the first door seemed bowed when we looked at it and the one currently installed is definitely askew. You can see that the door hits the drip overhang of the frame in the top left side. Hoping the new door and frame are square when installed.
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10-19-2019, 04:46 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: STEWARTSTOWN
Posts: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKRUEBBE
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Can you also use it on the fire wheel hitch to keep it lubbed or is WD40 better for that ?
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10-20-2019, 06:02 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Natalbany Creek Campground, Amite City, LA
Posts: 3,244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawags45
Can you also use it on the fire wheel hitch to keep it lubbed or is WD40 better for that ?
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Definitely, but I prefer white lithium grease for the king pin and hitch.
__________________
AL & JANET KRUEBBE
2019 PINNACLE 37RLWS
2018 NORTH POINT 315RLTS (TRADED)
2017 RAM 3500 DRW DIESEL/AISIN 4.10 AIR BAGS
B&W COMPANION TURN OVER BALL HITCH
Formerly from Sequim, WA
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10-20-2019, 06:11 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: STEWARTSTOWN
Posts: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKRUEBBE
Definitely, but I prefer white lithium grease for the king pin and hitch.
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Thanks
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10-20-2019, 06:24 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: STEWARTSTOWN
Posts: 284
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I see WD40 has a white lithium grease. I just ordered some for the 5th wheel jaws. I have a pad for the plate so I think that is good enough right ?
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10-21-2019, 07:49 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Natalbany Creek Campground, Amite City, LA
Posts: 3,244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawags45
I see WD40 has a white lithium grease. I just ordered some for the 5th wheel jaws. I have a pad for the plate so I think that is good enough right ?
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Yes, I like the WD40 brand of lithium grease but it is not as thick as what you can buy in a tube so I don't use the WD brand for my hitch but do use it for other applications. He who does not have a lube plate for their hitch is really living in the past........JMHO.
__________________
AL & JANET KRUEBBE
2019 PINNACLE 37RLWS
2018 NORTH POINT 315RLTS (TRADED)
2017 RAM 3500 DRW DIESEL/AISIN 4.10 AIR BAGS
B&W COMPANION TURN OVER BALL HITCH
Formerly from Sequim, WA
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10-26-2019, 03:55 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Chelmsford
Posts: 29
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Look at the door from the open edge. It will bow out near the latch area. Block it slightly open near top and bottom and push in on the latch area. Push lightly until you get it to close easily. That will fix your issue. They are built with the slight bow in them.
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10-26-2019, 05:28 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grand Junction
Posts: 29
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Yes, the door does bow outward are the center. I presume that is done to make sure the entire door seals when the center of the door is latched. But I also noticed that attached to the bottom of my door was a rubber wedge that was tapered, with the tapered end facing inward. What was happening with my Greyhawk is that the rubber wedge would arrive first, and when it struck the bottom door jam, it took some of the energy off the momentum of the door and kept it from latching without a firm slam. I removed it, and the door closes much easier now, along with an occasional application of door strike grease.
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10-26-2019, 05:49 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fchnjyh
Purchased new Eagle 355MBQS in April and have had trouble with the door since we bought it. Always having to slam the door to get it to latch. At one point we were driving across Texas and noticed the handle had come undone and was at a 90 degree angle with the door having come open - and this was with both the deadbolt and latch locked.
We went straight to a dealer and they took a 3/4 inch drill bit to the door jam to get the deadbolt to lock fully and that stopped the door from coming open going down the road, and we've had the door completely replaced since then but we're still having to slam the door to shut it - often multiple times before it will latch.
We are going back to get the door replaced again in a a couple of weeks, but thought I'd see if anyone had some advice.
Thanks!
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Based on your initial problem description, I would bet it also has something to do with friction hinges. Mine did the same thing until I put silicon on the hinges. The friction pressure flexed the door away from the striker.
It happened again the next year and a little after installing my Solid Step that also puts a little pressure on the door from the bottom.
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10-27-2019, 05:04 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Falkner
Posts: 13
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Thanks everyone for the info. I noticed the original door being bowed out around the latch. JaycoJoe, are you suggesting "unbowing" the door by using the blocks and pushing on it to bend it flat? The door that is currently installed actually hits the frame up at the top corner, so we are replacing it again this week but will check out the bow on the new one.
As for the hinges, yes, the flex does pull the door away also. I put some WD-40 silicone spray on the original door but very soon it started making the most God-awful racket opening and closing that we couldn't get back to the repair place fast enough for the replacement. Haven't put anything on this door and have opted to just sleep with the door ajar at night if it doesn't latch after 5 or 6 good slams.
Hopefully this new door will fit and latch like a charm...
__________________
2019 Eagle FW 355MBQS
2018 F-350 6.7 SRW
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10-27-2019, 07:25 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: McFarland
Posts: 9
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We are having the same problem with one of our two doors. I understand making the door with a slight bow so it is well sealed to prevent leaks, especially when driving in the rain. Our door is so bad, slamming it is useless, you will get a bloody nose when it hits you in the face. We need to straight arm it from the outside with the latch retracted and then let it out, from the inside you almost have to pull the handle off to get the door to latch and then need to dead bolt it or it will open as had happened when stored. Fortunately we had the grab handle folded over the door. Our dealer will most likely be replacing the door.
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10-27-2019, 07:30 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Chelmsford
Posts: 29
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The door from the factory has a strong bow in it. Do not take the bow out completely. Leave it slightly bowed but not as much as it is now. I have done that to mine and it works just fine. I was told that from Jayco customer service rep. The door is very flexible. Like I mentioned only adjust it in small increments until it latches smoothly
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