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Old 02-04-2020, 07:50 PM   #41
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When I first noticed it, I could push it most of the way up, and I tightened the screws.
It sagged again.
I took it to the dealer and they removed the underside, inspected, and put bigger screws. They couldn't get it all the way back to normal, either.
It still sags, but now it's more like a half inch when hitched, and now it goes all the way around the corner and then down to the bottom. It closes up a little when unhitched.
I'm convinced that the frame is twisting, and the lag bolts cannot overcome that force. You're asking the aluminum frame to hold back the force of twisting steel. I doubt those bandaid fixes will last.
We dropped it at the Jayco Factory yesterday, and they said they'll have Lippert in to look at it if they can't fix it.

I'll let you know what they say.
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:26 PM   #42
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Can I expect to see this on our 2019 25.5 REOK we purchased in August? Any one out there that has this same model that is having the sag issue or side wall cracks?
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Old 02-15-2020, 12:37 PM   #43
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Update: New roof coming

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Originally Posted by Cincinnati Kid View Post
When I first noticed it, I could push it most of the way up, and I tightened the screws.
It sagged again.
I took it to the dealer and they removed the underside, inspected, and put bigger screws. They couldn't get it all the way back to normal, either.
It still sags, but now it's more like a half inch when hitched, and now it goes all the way around the corner and then down to the bottom. It closes up a little when unhitched.
I'm convinced that the frame is twisting, and the lag bolts cannot overcome that force. You're asking the aluminum frame to hold back the force of twisting steel. I doubt those bandaid fixes will last.
We dropped it at the Jayco Factory yesterday, and they said they'll have Lippert in to look at it if they can't fix it.

I'll let you know what they say.
Update:
Our 5th wheel is still at the factory being fixed, but they did bring in a guy from Lippert who examined the steel frame and welded some braces on both sides, apparently. Hopefully, this will be the end of the twisting, but we'll let you know more next week or so when we bring it home.
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Old 04-02-2020, 10:14 AM   #44
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For you guys that have done this repair, are you just installing the larger screws in the upper part of the overhang or are you going the full length including the verticle section?

I assume it's just the upper section, but want to make sure. Thanks
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Old 04-02-2020, 10:33 AM   #45
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Update:
Our 5th wheel is still at the factory being fixed, but they did bring in a guy from Lippert who examined the steel frame and welded some braces on both sides, apparently. Hopefully, this will be the end of the twisting, but we'll let you know more next week or so when we bring it home.
Ok, so we got it back from the factory. They did weld some braces in the front of the frame, above the lp tanks, but when we went to pick it up, the sagging was still there. They took it back into the shop, and put 4" screws on both sides, (Removing the 2" screws our dealership had tried.) It now hasn't moved at all since we picked it up March 11. We've been on the road since then, and just drove the Natchez Trace Parkway, with a lot of bumpy roads and sharp turns in parking lots and campgrounds. No movement at all. The caulk line is unbroken.
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Old 04-02-2020, 11:44 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by SeventyGTX View Post
For you guys that have done this repair, are you just installing the larger screws in the upper part of the overhang or are you going the full length including the verticle section?

I assume it's just the upper section, but want to make sure. Thanks
SeventyGTX, It's just the horizontal section that has a total of about 22 screws, if I remember correctly. See this post:

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tml#post793950
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Old 04-02-2020, 11:59 AM   #47
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For you guys that have done this repair, are you just installing the larger screws in the upper part of the overhang or are you going the full length including the verticle section?

I assume it's just the upper section, but want to make sure. Thanks
Jayco did ours. Vertical section too, as it was pulling away all the way to the bottom corner.
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Old 04-02-2020, 12:09 PM   #48
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Thanks guys, I will probably just do both horizontal and verticle to be safe. Another question is, will 3" screws work instead of 3 1/2?. 3" is the longest our local hardware store has in size 10. Also, besides standard 3" long 1/8" drill bits, the only longer ones they have are 12". So I will most likely get one of those and cut it down to about 6 or 7 inches.
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Old 04-02-2020, 12:11 PM   #49
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Thanks guys, I will probably just do both horizontal and verticle to be safe. Another question is, will 3" screws work instead of 3 1/2?. 3" is the longest our local hardware store has in size 10. Also, besides standard 3" long 1/8" drill bits, the only longer ones they have are 12". So I will most likely get one of those and cut it down to about 6 or 7 inches.
The service manager at Jayco told me they used 4".
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Old 04-02-2020, 12:18 PM   #50
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The service manager at Jayco told me they used 4".
Ok thanks, looks I may have to hunt a bit further for them. I remember one person on the forum saying he used 3", but not sure if he went through both sides of the frame.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:27 PM   #51
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I used 3 screws and it went through both the top and bottom of the aluminum tube in the bottom of the sidewall as I indicated in the sketch i posted in the other thread linked above. I also doubled up the number of screws on the underside and did the curved section and a few of the vertical screws.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:05 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by SeventyGTX View Post
Thanks guys, I will probably just do both horizontal and verticle to be safe. Another question is, will 3" screws work instead of 3 1/2?. 3" is the longest our local hardware store has in size 10. Also, besides standard 3" long 1/8" drill bits, the only longer ones they have are 12". So I will most likely get one of those and cut it down to about 6 or 7 inches.
What you need to do is drill an exploratory hole straight up until you hit the aluminum cross member. Once you hit that, you can measure how long the screw needs to be. I used 3-1/2" screws on mine.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:14 PM   #53
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What you need to do is drill an exploratory hole straight up until you hit the aluminum cross member. Once you hit that, you can measure how long the screw needs to be. I used 3-1/2" screws on mine.

Yep, that's the plan. I have a 6" drill bit coming and should be here in the next couple of days. I will drill to the frame rail, mark it, then drill through to the top of the rail and mark the bit again.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:20 PM   #54
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I used 3 screws and it went through both the top and bottom of the aluminum tube in the bottom of the sidewall as I indicated in the sketch i posted in the other thread linked above. I also doubled up the number of screws on the underside and did the curved section and a few of the vertical screws.
I plan on doubling the amount of screws too, thanks.
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Old 04-05-2020, 02:48 PM   #55
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Well this little project is going to crap fast. I went to the hardware store and picked up a box of the only #10 3" sheet metal screws they had. Ran the 6" drill I bought through one hole. Then I ran one of the screws in that was a bit tough once it met the frame, but it pulled up tight. Started a second one and the head snapped off once it got into the metal frame. Which I have to assume is steel as the head snapped off so easily.

So even though I ran an 1/8" pilot hole through it, it looks like I need self tappers. Where did you guys get your screws? I am having a hard time finding anything online. This small town has very limited in selection. Here is a pic of the snapped off head and to the left of it is the one that did not snap, to the right is an original screw. That broken stud is there to stay, vise-grips wouldn't budge it. I thought this was going to be a breeze...

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Old 04-05-2020, 03:19 PM   #56
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You need a larger pilot hole. At least a 9/64 drill bit = .141 diameter for a #10 screw to match its root diameter. I used a #21 = .159 diameter.

A .125 pilot hole is ok for a #8 screw.
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Old 04-05-2020, 03:23 PM   #57
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You need a larger pilot hole. At least a 9/64 drill bit = .141” diameter for a #10 screw to match its root diameter. I used a #21 = .159” diameter.

A .125 pilot hole is ok for a #8 screw.
Thats what I thought, either a smaller screw or larger bit. I could have sworn guys in here said they used an 1/8" bit with a #10 screw which is why I went that route. I'll go see if they have 3" #8's tomorrow. Thanks
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Old 04-05-2020, 05:20 PM   #58
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... Started a second one and the head snapped off once it got into the metal frame. Which I have to assume is steel as the head snapped off so easily.
Not to worry SeventyGTX, I broke one off also. I just moved over about 3/8" and re-drilled.

BTW, you are going into aluminum rather than steel.
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Old 04-05-2020, 05:29 PM   #59
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Not to worry SeventyGTX, I broke one off also. I just moved over about 3/8" and re-drilled.

BTW, you are going into aluminum rather than steel.
It was VERY tight and I knew it was going to snap and pretty sure if I kept going, others would do the same. So, I'm going to try #8's tomorrow if they have them. If not, I'll go with a slightly larger bit. I didn't check the shavings to see if they were magnetic, but for aluminum it sure stopped that bit quick and was hard to drill through.

I was surprised how quick it went from the first layer of metal until I hit the second, less than a half inch. The framing must be pretty small square tubing especially if it is aluminum.
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Old 04-06-2020, 06:07 PM   #60
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Not to worry SeventyGTX, I broke one off also. I just moved over about 3/8" and re-drilled.

BTW, you are going into aluminum rather than steel.
Actually I just found mine is steel as I thought. I drilled a hole out and took a magnet to the filings on the bit, and it was in fact steel. I knew it drilled pretty tough, nothing like soft aluminum.

Anyway, I ordered some #8 x 3" stainless square drive screws off ebay and will use those, probably with small washers.
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