Eagle HT Separation Issue Update

[Cincinnati Kid]

I want to know what the steel frame underneath looks like. How do you know it's not separated?

[eow]

Originally Posted by Cincinnati Kid

I want to know what the steel frame underneath looks like. How do you know it's not separated?

This is my understanding of the situation:

The factory installed 1 inch long screws to hold the lower trim. These short screws only penetrate into the plywood strip that is used to anchor the aluminum skin on the underside of the cab overhang.

When hitched, the FW frame flexes and the lower trim sags relative to the sidewall since the lower trim is not directly connected to the sidewall.

To resolve the issue, a longer screw replaces the short factory screw so the trim is anchored to the aluminum tube that is within the sidewall. Now this is important: the longer screw needs to penetrate through the bottom AND top of the aluminum tube for adequate anchoring. Otherwise the longer screw could pull out if only penetrating the bottom of the tube.



The steel frame in the area can be seen in the front cargo hold. But although it’s flex is the root of the issue, it is not part of the fix. The objective of the fix is to securely anchor the lower corner trim to the side wall, not to the steel frame.

Once the lower trim is anchored securely to the sidewall’s lower aluminum tube, the top leg of trim upper edge needs to be resealed to the sidewall.

[Jim Smyth]

Great picture and shows what needs to be done to solve the problem.

[chas111]

Originally Posted by eow

This is my understanding of the situation:

The factory installed 1 inch long screws to hold the lower trim. These short screws only penetrate into the plywood strip that is used to anchor the aluminum skin on the underside of the cab overhang.

When hitched, the FW frame flexes and the lower trim sags relative to the sidewall since the lower trim is not directly connected to the sidewall.

To resolve the issue, a longer screw replaces the short factory screw so the trim is anchored to the aluminum tube that is within the sidewall. Now this is important: the longer screw needs to penetrate through the bottom AND top of the aluminum tube for adequate anchoring. Otherwise the longer screw could pull out if only penetrating the bottom of the tube.




Attachment 54102

The steel frame in the area can be seen in the front cargo hold. But although it’s flex is the root of the issue, it is not part of the fix. The objective of the fix is to securely anchor the lower corner trim to the side wall, not to the steel frame.

Once the lower trim is anchored securely to the sidewall’s lower aluminum tube, the top leg of trim upper edge needs to be resealed to the sidewall.

Did you use self tapping screws?

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by chas111

Did you use self tapping screws?

I used 3.5" #10 sheet metal screws. I pre-drilled with a 1/8" 6" long drill bit to a depth of 3.5".

[eow]

Originally Posted by chas111

Did you use self tapping screws?

The screws and procedure I used are detailed in post #6 in this thread.

[Rayco]

Are people seeing this on both sides of the camper or only the left (driver) side?

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by Rayco

Are people seeing this on both sides of the camper or only the left (driver) side?

Mine was on both sides.

[eow]

Originally Posted by Rayco

Are people seeing this on both sides of the camper or only the left (driver) side?

Passenger side on mine. But did fix on both sides.

[biohazard]

is this something jayco has looked into and rectified for the 2020 models,or is it still something to have to keep an eye out for?

[Witt74]

Passenger side was drooping on my 08 Eagle HT. Finally pulled the molding down far enough to see what was going on. The plywood that the molding was attached to was rotted. Cleaned out the rotted plywood, cut 2 shims, attached the shims to the steel frame, Screwed the molding back up and recaulked it. The frame above the molding in the hitch area is steel, not aluminum, as this is a high stress area.

[eow]

Originally Posted by Witt74

..............The frame above the molding in the hitch area is steel, not aluminum, as this is a high stress area.

Not on my 2018. The steel frame is inset so the steel frame's outer surface is aligned with the inside of the sidewall. The steel frame is a carpeted "hump" in the bedroom along the sidewall. Therefore my bottom trim is fastened to the aluminum tube in and near the bottom of the sidewall, not the steel frame.

2008s were probably designed and built more logically.

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by Witt74

The frame above the molding in the hitch area is steel, not aluminum, as this is a high stress area.

Not on mine.

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by triplebvalp

I noticed this issue on our 2017 Eagle HT 27.5RKDS last year after a 1000 mile trip. After getting home, I resealed the trim and it stayed put for several more camping trips. Just this week, I decided to take a closer look. I removed the rubber trim to check the screws. There were 22 screws total most of which were striped out. I removed all the screws (they were #8 1-1/2" long). I did a little investigating and found that the screws were only going into 1/2" plywood.

Thinking that there is enough flex in this area that adding the next size/length screw would just be a band-aid, I decided to explore a little deeper. Using a 1/8" drill bit (about 8" long) I drilled straight up through one of the screws holes and discovered what I believe to be aluminum box tubing.

So, I drilled all of the existing screw holes, except the ones nearest the side marker light, 3-1/2" deep and installed 3-1/2" #10 coated sheet metal screws. Haven't pulled the FW anywhere yet but I suspect the problem is resolved using these long screws.

Update: Since the above repair, we have made 2 camping adventures totaling about 1700 miles round trip. The repair seemed to have fixed the separation issue.

[berkashire]

My 2 yr old 30.5MBOK also suffers from this condition on the left side. I appreciate everyone's diagnosis and solution provided. I would have thought if it was drooping like it is, I could manually push it back together (temporarily). However, when I push up on it, it doesn't move an iota. Is that what others have experienced?? I am hopeful when I begin the process of replacing the short screws with the 3.5" sheet metal screws, it will scootch it back together. Appreciate anyone's experience confirming that.

[eow]

Mine was the same, unable to push up by hand but longer screws did.

[berkashire]

Thank you

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by berkashire

I would have thought if it was drooping like it is, I could manually push it back together (temporarily). However, when I push up on it, it doesn't move an iota. Is that what others have experienced??

I was able to push mine back up … maybe not all the way, but at least some movement.

[Rayco]

Our 30.5 MBOK went in to have the issue fixed on the left side, and the dealer used a kit supplied by Jayco that sounds just like EOW's description.

When I picked up the camper, I asked the service writer if there was any chance Jayco authorized fixing the other side and she said no, they won't authorize a fix until it fails.

So, I took the camper home and the next day I got a call from the dealer and she said she talked to Jayco and they gave authorization for them to fix the other side, even though it hadn't failed yet! (three cheers for Fretz RV in Souderton PA)

We returned to the dealer in November and they right side fix was implemented!

[chas111]

I tried the longer screws (dealer was aware) when I was 600 miles away from home. It still flexed but not quite as bad. The unit is at the dealer now and they are going to expose the underside to inspect (may have moisture from the slipping molding). They have another unit with same issue and are going to see what they can do to decrease some of the flex. They report HT models don't have as much metal in the front to as to keep the pin weight down. I'll update the progress.