electric versus gas for norcold refers

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by kirkelli

I think the AC option in most RV water heater use is more of an assist but still suggested to use gas for heating water.. My RSTS points that out in the owners manual. I tried once with full on electric no gas and the water was lukewarm where the gas brings the water temps way up.

That's definitely not the results I see. I always run my water heater on electric and the water gets too hot to touch. My wife and I can both shower and the water is still plenty warm. It only takes a few minutes to get back to max temp. I've only used gas once due to a power outage.

[jimmoore13]

If you have shore power, run the fridge on 120 volts. If you don't, run it on propane.

The difference in temps you are seeing are likely related to the "power" output of the electric heater vs. the power output of the flame on propane. These are small differences and don't mean much in real world use. Want it colder? Adjust the thermistor.

Where things really matter is when running on 12 volts. Yes, I know your fridge does not run on 12 volts, but this is an energy comparison.
A 5 gallon/20 pound tank of propane contains something like 10,000 (that's TEN THOUSAND) times as much energy as a standard group 24 marine battery that dealers are so fond of installing on RVs. If you want an exact number, determine the number of BTUs in a gallon of propane (about 95,000) and then convert BTU to kilowatts and do some math. I've done it many times, and, from memory, a 20 pound tank of propane contains the energy equivalent of 10,000 standard RV batteries. But I digress.

Lastly, the fridge uses a negligible amount of propane. Stove, oven, furnace, hot water heater all use FAR more. BUT, AS FOR THE COST OF A KILOWATT HOUR ON SHORE POWER VS. THE COST OF THE EQUIVALENT ENERGY IN A PROPANE TANK, the propane will cost more...especially since you need to drive somewhere to get the tank filled or do an exchange. And then there's the fact that you only pay for electricity at home...it's part of the site rent at an RV park.

[CAG]

I live where the temps get more than a little warm. I generally start the fridge on 120V in front of the house to begin the process. It is an exercise in frustration because it does not cool much below 50 if that far and I have written before on this.



At one point I called my local RV repair shop and asked which was best gas or electric. The response was, they use one or the other on rigs they have in for repairs during the summer and they, in 20 years of doing repairs, have never found more than a degree or two difference when it is hot outside or even during 70 degree temps. One is no better than the other.

[videoarizona]

Like CAG, I live in AZ. Unlike CAG... When I bring trailer home from storage, I start it on AC and it cools down very quickly. I switch to gas for traveling.
6cu/ft, 2013 year. Not in a slide. Two little fans inside fridge to circulate air.
I run my cooling switch at midpoint...

[CAG]

Originally Posted by videoarizona

Like CAG, I live in AZ. Unlike CAG... When I bring trailer home from storage, I start it on AC and it cools down very quickly. I switch to gas for traveling.
6cu/ft, 2013 year. Not in a slide. Two little fans inside fridge to circulate air.
I run my cooling switch at midpoint...

You must have a very special fridge because no one else I know living in this desert has that kind of luck. My experience has been fans do about 2 degrees difference.

[mini4mw]

The absorption fridges seem to use a crazy amount of power when running electric only. Gas also keeps mine colder. That being said, if I'm in a place electric is free.. its on electric.

This guy compares residential, absorption electric only power and 12v compressors. His larger absorption uses 6700 watts in 24hrs.. wow.. 1700 for residential and 900 for larger 12v.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwHU_NY0Auo&t=421s

I'm seriously thinking of moving to 12v as i'm tired of having to get the level just right so it works well, i generally don't boondock and while I'm driving my alternator charges my battery. I do have 100W to keep my batteries up, but I'd really need another panel and upgrade to LiFePo4 to do it right.

[videoarizona]

CAG,
I'm beginning to think so. It works very well....

[kirkelli]

Originally Posted by CAG

You must have a very special fridge because no one else I know living in this desert has that kind of luck. My experience has been fans do about 2 degrees difference.

Dont count me out CAG,, I too live in the Desert, not Arizona but within a 'hop-skip and a jump' of Death Valley here in sunny Calif. We enjoyed a very nice 107 degrees today. When i run my refer on gas, i too have to turn the therm down to mid point, else things in the fridge tend to freeze when on high on gas.. When I run it on electric, the setting goes to #9 (max) and never has anything in the refer came close to freezing on electric. Even in the Winter.

[kirkelli]

Originally Posted by Bayoutalker

That's definitely not the results I see. I always run my water heater on electric and the water gets too hot to touch. My wife and I can both shower and the water is still plenty warm. It only takes a few minutes to get back to max temp. I've only used gas once due to a power outage.

More than likely, dependent on the type of water heater and or model of RV. I probably too can take a nice shower using only electric in the summer, but no way would i in the cold Winter.. That would be torture. The manual for my water heater points out that electric is only assist and if hot water is required, run it on gas. When i first got my 19 RSTS we lived in it for 6 months at an RV park while our new home was being built. This was dead of winter in Auburn, Ca. Since electric was free, i ran the heater on electric. My wife & I went nuts taking cold showers for the first week, until i called the dealer inquiring about lack of good hot water. They explained how my hot water tank worked. I ran it on gas from that point on and been a happy camper since.

[CAG]

I think the test is getting it to a decent temp from startup. Once you get it there it will work at some sort of decent temp. What I have found is that from inside temps of 110 it is nearly impossible to get it above 50 when outside temps are 110 or so. When it cools off at night the fridge will go to 40s and if you shade the outside of the RV during the day it will stay reasonable. The freezer is generally not a problem. It will stay 10 or below during very hot days. It is the lower section that becomes an issue with 110 F temps.