electrical

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by Route 66 Traveler

The experts will chime in soon, but most trailers run on 120 volts. The 50 amp plug has two 120 volt hot leads, a neutral and ground. The converter and microwave only use 120 volts, so you probably fried them with 220v.

all 50 amps RV services are 240 volts.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by chief549

Reason for the dog bone was due to the receptacle that I was plugging into was a 30 amp plug which was then hooked into my 50 amp cord which is electrically ok, not understanding the 220v is my main issue, having 30amp 220v or 50amp 220 shouldnt matter since the camper says it will hold 120/220v 50 amp. Jayco has no clue either which is concerning to me and to add to it NONE of my breakers popped nor did any fuse get blown and Jayco doesn't understand that either they think the breakers should have thrown and all the fuses should have blowen because thats where the protection is let me add that no outlet is bad and the GFI didnt trip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/09...c=1&pldnSite=1

[RetiredOne]

Even the largest RVs, when plugged into 50 amp service, still almost universally use this double-hot-pole, or double-bus, installation to draw only 120 volts to two separate 120-volt circuits simultaneously, thereby accessing a possible 12,000 watts of power.
https://itstillruns.com/wire-rv-campsite-7787467.html


The mistake that many RV technicians and owners make is assuming that your RV is wired the same way as your home. The problem is that few RVs (except for the largest coaches) have any appliances powered by 240 volts. So even if you do have an electric clothes dryer, it’s typically powered by a single pole of 120 volts on a 30-amp breaker and outlet, not the 240-volt 2-pole outlet in your home. In fact, most RV circuit breaker panels are built so it’s impossible to plug in a 2-pole circuit breaker to make 240-volts of 2-pole power. As you can see, there’s a 50-amp incoming breaker which effectively splits the panel into two separate bus bars, each of which powers the circuit breakers on the left or right side of the panel. So there’s no way a single 2-pole breaker can grab two different legs of incoming power.
https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electric...dryers-in-rvs/


Plugs on RVs with 30 amp service and 50 amp service differ in design.

• A 30 amp plug has three prongs – a 120 volt hot wire, a neutral wire and a ground wire – and is generally used on RVs with lower load requirements.
• A 50 amp plug has four prongs – two 120 volt hot wires, a neutral wire and a ground wire – that supply two separate 50 amp, 120 volt feeds.

https://koa.com/blog/30-vs-50-amp-rv-service/


A 50A service is connected to four wires and uses a four-prong plug. It is different from a traditional 110V service in the sense that there are two 110V hot feeds or legs, each at 50 amps.
But you can run high-voltage electronics with a 50A system. A 30A service is a single-phase service but a 50A service consists of two separate 50A units, with each line is 110 volts. Almost all RV appliances are compatible with 110V.
Large RVs mostly likely draw only 110 volts to two separate 110-volt circuits simultaneously when connected to a 50A service.
https://www.rvtalk.net/how-to-wire-a-50-amp-rv-plug/


That is, a properly wired, 50-amp, 120/240-volt campground pedestal does indeed have 100 amps of current available at 120 volts as long as you don’t exceed 50 amps on either leg. That’s because a properly wired 50-amp service includes two separate 120-volt legs (Hot 1 and Hot 2) of up to 50 amps each. So you can draw 30+30 amps, or 40+40 amps, and up to 50+50 amps and still be within limits. See my diagram on the left that shows how this works. Note that if you add 50 amps plus 50 amps you get 100 amps total, which is 12,000 watts of power (120 volts x 100 amps = 12,000 watts), and power is the only thing that really counts. Now don’t confuse this wiring diagram with the 240-volt power like you would use in your house to run an electric stove.
https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electric...amp-pedestals/


To facilitate the larger loads placed upon the newer RVs the 50 amp service was brought out. Whereas the 30 amp service was a 120 volt service yielding 3,600 watts of power, the 50 amp service is a 120/240 split phase service. The split phase service means you have two 120 volt 50 amp poles, which gives you a total of up to 12,000 watts. Very rarely will an RV have any 240 volt loads.
https://www.rvtechmag.com/electrical/chapter3.php

[Route 66 Traveler]

Originally Posted by Cavie

all 50 amps RV services are 240 volts.

I give up....my house provides 240 volts to my range and clothes dryer. My RV has 2 legs of 120 volts that operate independently of each other and provide 120 volts to the interior of my RV. Nothing in my trailer uses 240 volts and there is no outlet that provides it either. The only way to see 240 volts in my RV is with my voltmeter across L1 & L2, which serves no purpose.

You enjoy your 240 volt RV and I’ll enjoy my 120 volt RV...

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Route 66 Traveler

I give up....my house provides 240 volts to my range and clothes dryer. My RV has 2 legs of 120 volts that operate independently of each other and provide 120 volts to the interior of my RV. Nothing in my trailer uses 240 volts and there is no outlet that provides it either. The only way to see 240 volts in my RV is with my voltmeter across L1 & L2, which serves no purpose.

You enjoy your 240 volt RV and I’ll enjoy my 120 volt RV...

I don't believe those two statements are necessarily in conflict. The service is 240 volts, the RV and its appliances only use 120 volts but there are two separate 120 volt feeds into a 50-amp unit plugged into a 50-amp receptacle.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by Route 66 Traveler

I give up....my house provides 240 volts to my range and clothes dryer. My RV has 2 legs of 120 volts that operate independently of each other and provide 120 volts to the interior of my RV. Nothing in my trailer uses 240 volts and there is no outlet that provides it either. The only way to see 240 volts in my RV is with my voltmeter across L1 & L2, which serves no purpose.

You enjoy your 240 volt RV and I’ll enjoy my 120 volt RV...

https://www.technorv.com/articles/ho...Q63nbGg0ktkmuc

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/09...c=1&pldnSite=1

[Route 66 Traveler]

We’ve been through this a few pages back. Show me in the link below where is says anywhere on the diagram “240 volts”. It clearly states 120volts AC, not 240.

https://www.technorv.com/articles/ho...Q63nbGg0ktkmuc

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by Route 66 Traveler

We’ve been through this a few pages back. Show me in the link below where is says anywhere on the diagram “240 volts”. It clearly states 120volts AC, not 240.

https://www.technorv.com/articles/ho...Q63nbGg0ktkmuc

You can lead a horse to water but.........High-end MH's do use 240 for Dryer and induction cooktops. I will NEVER stop Teaching RV owners about the use and SAFETY OF ELECTRICITY!! If you do not agree with that just move on.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Cavie

You can lead a horse to water but.........

Attachment 65053

OK, please tell me how I would install a 240 volt heater circuit or a 240 volt upgraded electric water heater or 240 volt range in that panel. Where would the double pole breaker plug in?

You do see where it says "Leg one 120 volt and Leg two 120 volt", right?

Which one of those breakers in that panel is supplying 240 volts to an on board appliance?

High-end MH's do use 240 for Dryer and induction cooktops.

So, why did you post a standard 50 amp panel that is found in normal TTs and MHs? Nobody disputes that there are Class A buses that have 240 volt available. That wasn't what's being discussed here.

[JFlightRisk]

thread closed