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Old 02-14-2016, 01:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcferran1 View Post
One of the electricians here had a quick look and thinks the probelm may be the socket where the shore power connects, they can get power on the shore side but not on the coach end.

Mark.
If what you state here is accurate, it is really very simple. It is somewhere between where you plug in to shore power (you say you have power there) and the plug on the socket of the coach (you say you do not have power there). It has nothing to do with any breakers or GFCI's inside the coach. Check the heavy wire and both the plug and socket on each end of it. Try to find an ohm meter, disconnect both ends of the wire, and check for continuity of each wire. You may also check the wire connections to the plug on the side of the coach. Again, I'm relying on what you state above.

Best of luck with this!

Ray
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Old 02-14-2016, 03:39 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by klassic View Post
???
Can someone explain to me how a tripped GFCI is going to shut the shore power COMPLETELY OFF in a 50amp rig?
Heat pump off, micro off, electric water heater off?
You're right, it won't. I misread the original post
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Old 02-14-2016, 03:57 PM   #23
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Sounds like you must have burned the 220v/50hz to 120/60 hz converter.
You should be able to smell the electrical failure near where the cord goes into the trailer(probably where the converter is located).

Good luck!

Just curious, how do you use all the electronic stuff you have from Ireland in your trailer if it's 110v? Or did you have to buy all American stuff to use?
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Old 02-14-2016, 04:09 PM   #24
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This is interesting and I can see where it may be somewhat confusing. Have the electrician check for voltage at the pedestal (which it appears has been done) Unplug the RV from the pedestal and then go inside of the RV to where the cord connects to the breaker panel. Have the electrician check for power at that connection point after the Cord has be re-plugged into the pedestal (Shore Power) Also have him check to make sure all wire are securely connected. Could be possible that a wire is loose or came disconnected being changes were made to convert to UK Power Requirements.


Start at Point "A" ( Pedestal) and work towards Point "Z" (Load=RV) Voltage is voltage and Hertz are Hertz Troubleshooting electric circuits are the same no mater where in the world you are.


I would guess your problem has something to do with the conversion that was done.
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Old 02-15-2016, 03:54 PM   #25
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All is well now, it was only a wire in the shore cable.

I wrote a detailed reply earlier and it seems to have disappeared, I'll reply in more detail again later.

Thanks again everyone!
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:12 PM   #26
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Thanks for the update
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Old 02-15-2016, 06:00 PM   #27
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I don't know where my earlier update went.

UK dealer called me at 9.05 this morning and it took all of 30 seconds to get the wire colours and a few minutes for the electrician to change the shore socket to the 32amp UK socket.

The US plug has four wires, the UK three wires. During the conversion the red wire is disconnected but remains in place at the shore socket. We knew one wire had to be eliminated, just not sure which one.

Thankfully this was the issue. As well as the normal wires there are others added during the conversion and I had an extra inverter added to power my satellite and a few other things. When my electrician looked at the wiring yesterday he almost passed out lol.

During the conversion the coach is adapted to run 220v as well as 120. Most of the sockets were changed to 220 but we kept some US sockets for the US appliances we've build up over the years. The smaller bedroom TV's have to be changed to British but the main TV wasn't changed as we use Sky+ satellite. Road lights also have to be adapted to make them UK legal and a manual handbrake added. The conversion seems to have been carried out to a very high standard.

I have three batteries which lasted the 28 hours I was without power. I had to use the gas heating, charge phones and watched TV for a number of hours. Also the coach had to be moved during this, so all the sides had to come in and back out. When the power was reconnected the batteries had 1/3 power left.

This is my second Jayco, this Northpoint replaced my 2008 Eagle 345BHS which I really had no major problems that we didn't expect.

As we live in Ireland and our dealer is in the UK we'll have to take care of any minor issues that pop up so I'm sure I'll need some more good advice in the future.

Thanks again to everyone who chipped in to help.

The 377RLBH came from the UK Jayco dealer who managed to work with Jayco to come up with a 1 year warranty (somewhat unusual for Jayco to offer a warranty outside the US).
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Old 02-15-2016, 06:15 PM   #28
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Glad it worked out.
I'm still confused on your 220 UK power though.
Please tell me there is a transformer of some sort somewhere. You're blowing my mind on how your plugging into UK hydro and able to magically run electronic equipment that runs on 120v 60hz.
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Old 02-15-2016, 06:50 PM   #29
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I would suggest that you get a copy of the conversion wiring diagrams for future reference


Again thanks for the full update
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