Eternabond on new trailer?

[teevman]

Hi all. Have a new 23.5 just used this summer, we love it. I have been reading about people on here using eterabond to cover seams and this appears to be great stuff that would help reduce leaks before they start. I'm wondering if anyone has just gone ahead and applied to all the roof seams on a new trailer as a preventative measure or should one wait till the two year warranty is over. Thanks again. By the way i love this forum, lots of really good info!

[Boss Wagon]

EternaBond is a great product and it works. Personally I wouldn't use it right away on a new RV and I think it would be wise to wait until the warranty runs out.

One word of caution in using EternaBond it is not as easy to apply as it looks. Yeah, it goes on easily but to do it neatly and perfectly requires patience, skill and luck. I don't know how you would ever remove it, that is why putting it on neatly is so important.

Just for fun I put a leftover piece on the bottom of my "tire wash" bucket to cover a crack. The bonding side was actually exposed to the water when the bucket was in use. After 5 years, the EternaBond tape was still there; however, other damage to the bucket finally rendered it useless.

[teevman]

Thanks for the info. Yeah I suppose it's better to wait till warranty is over. Hopefully the seams will last two years w/o cracking, lol.

[RVhiker]

I have a different take on the issue of warranty versus application of Eternabond. I feel that the caulking and sealing on my trailer is good enough to last through the warranty period, if proper maintenance of the caulked seams is done. I definitely have found some caulked seams on my roof that had failure cracks, which I fixed.

However, if a crack or leak goes un-seen or un-repaired, there is a fairly good chance you won't see water damage until after the warranty coverage is over.... and then you have an expensive problem. I took a proactive approach, and used Eternabond to seal all the seams on my still in warranty roof.

Also, I keep a close watch on all the caulked seams on the sides of the trailer, at the corners and at the roofline, as well as of seams at clearance lights and any other penetrations of the side of the trailer.

Once you know you have a leak from observation on the inside, it is often too late to prevent extensive damage.

[teevman]

Originally Posted by RVhiker

I have a different take on the issue of warranty versus application of Eternabond. I feel that the caulking and sealing on my trailer is good enough to last through the warranty period, if proper maintenance of the caulked seams is done. I definitely have found some caulked seams on my roof that had failure cracks, which I fixed.

However, if a crack or leak goes un-seen or un-repaired, there is a fairly good chance you won't see water damage until after the warranty coverage is over.... and then you have an expensive problem. I took a proactive approach, and used Eternabond to seal all the seams on my still in warranty roof.

Also, I keep a close watch on all the caulked seams on the sides of the trailer, at the corners and at the roofline, as well as of seams at clearance lights and any other penetrations of the side of the trailer.

Once you know you have a leak from observation on the inside, it is often too late to prevent extensive damage.

What did you use to clean the old caulking and rubber roof before you applied the eternabond? Also what type of caulking should one use to repair any cracks? Thanks.

[hbravo]

I received the following from Jayco customer service re. Eternabond tape:

"The roofs seals on any Jayco product are customer responsibility from the day of purchase. Jayco recommends using a self leveling sealant. Not being familiar with using the Eternabond product on any Jayco products I can’t give you an opinion other then to say Jayco does not recommend anything other then a self leveling sealant for any of the roof’s attachments. Seal failure is considered customer error at all levels except for inside the first year of ownership even if you use the self leveling sealants as Jayco recommends the unit be re-sealed each and every year."

[RVhiker]

Originally Posted by teevman

What did you use to clean the old caulking and rubber roof before you applied the eternabond? Also what type of caulking should one use to repair any cracks? Thanks.

I left the old caulking in place, and put the Eternabond over it. I used small amounts of acetone to clean the surface; Eternabond also has a branded spray cleaner if you prefer.

Here's

a youtube video of Eternabond being used on a RV. The Eternabond site also has lots of information. Here's a thread in another forum on the subject: thread.

Assuming the cracks are in caulking on a rubber roof, I've used Dicor self-leveling caulk. It's slightly runny, and will smoothe out. You just have to clean the old caulk well, and then apply the Dicor.

[norty1]

I am in the process of putting it on my 1 yr old rig. I purchased the 6 inch wide product for the front seal and 4 inch for the back. Have not decided what to use 4 or 6 on the other openings. I also purchased the eternabond cleaner. On a new rig, I put it right over the caulk.

On the email from Jayco, I would not expect them to say anything else to protect themselves. My problem is protecting my camper. I inspect it regularly as long as I can get up there. Would not trust it to anyone else.

[krackeer]

So, does the eternabond tape eliminate the need for caulking?

[teevman]

Originally Posted by RVhiker

I left the old caulking in place, and put the Eternabond over it. I used small amounts of acetone to clean the surface; Eternabond also has a branded spray cleaner if you prefer.

a youtube video of Eternabond being used on a RV. The Eternabond site also has lots of information. Here's a thread in another forum on the subject: thread.

Assuming the cracks are in caulking on a rubber roof, I've used Dicor self-leveling caulk. It's slightly runny, and will smoothe out. You just have to clean the old caulk well, and then apply the Dicor.

Thanks for all the info! Is it a good idea to use their roller or is smoothing with firm hand pressure enough?

[norty1]

I use a small wall paper edge roller. To respond to the caulk question. Eternabond does not eliminate the need for caulking. It is just another tool to keep your roof sealed.

[RVhiker]

Originally Posted by norty1

I use a small wall paper edge roller. To respond to the caulk question. Eternabond does not eliminate the need for caulking. It is just another tool to keep your roof sealed.

x2 on the above. Eternabond does not eliminate the need for caulking, but I believe that once it is properly applied and adhered to the surface, it will not easily come loose. There are places where Eternabond may not be appropriate and caulking is best. And there are always surprises. I did buy the equivalent of an Eternabond roller made out of metal. A wallpaper roller would work, if you can find one that is not made out of flimsy plastic. You can buy Eternabond lots of places - I got mine at Best Materials.

In addition to all the penetrations on the roof and sidewalls already mentioned, consider your windows as well. Here is a window thread.

[teevman]

Originally Posted by RVhiker

x2 on the above. Eternabond does not eliminate the need for caulking, but I believe that once it is properly applied and adhered to the surface, it will not easily come loose. There are places where Eternabond may not be appropriate and caulking is best. And there are always surprises. I did buy the equivalent of an Eternabond roller made out of metal. A wallpaper roller would work, if you can find one that is not made out of flimsy plastic. You can buy Eternabond lots of places - I got mine at Best Materials.

In addition to all the penetrations on the roof and sidewalls already mentioned, consider your windows as well. Here is a window thread.

Geez am I going to have any time for camping with all this resealing stuff, lol.

Nice pics in that window job. Two questions about that (for now) was it difficult to remove the windows (how) and was the butyl rubber you used the stuff that comes in a roll, also did the window frame cover the caulking completely when you were finished or did you need to do some trimming? Woops i guess that was three ?

[RVhiker]

Originally Posted by teevman

Geez am I going to have any time for camping with all this resealing stuff, lol.

I know how you feel. There is always something that needs repairing or improving on a trailer.

Originally Posted by teevman

Nice pics in that window job. Two questions about that (for now) was it difficult to remove the windows (how) and was the butyl rubber you used the stuff that comes in a roll, also did the window frame cover the caulking completely when you were finished or did you need to do some trimming? Woops i guess that was three ?

I used grey 1/8" thick 3/4" wide butyl tape that comes in a roll- most seem to think butyl is preferable to putty tape.

The windows were easy to remove. Grab some help if you can, but for medium to small windows one person can do it. First remove the blind on the inside. Then, station your helper outside or you can tape the top of the window with several strips of duct tape to the side of the trailer (to hold it in when it is loose). Remove the screws that hold the window ring (inside) -but be careful, you don't want your several hundred dollar window to fall and bust so either your helper or the tape has to do a good job. Open a window and screen if possible. From the outside, tug lightly on the window (use a putty knife if needed between the window flange and the side of the trailer to cut sealant) and pull the window out. Lay it outside side down on a tarp or clean floor. Remove the old sealant, apply the butyl. Look for water damage to the wall near the window. Hopefully there is none. As an aid to center the window, mark the outside wall with small strips of masking tape about 1/2 inch from the window cutout. Replace the window in the cutout and pay attention to the centering of the window. You can use small strips of wood on the inside, between the window frame and the wall to keep the window centered - but the window should be able to move a bit to handle flexing as the trailer is moving. Reinstall the window ring and screws (be careful, the screws are going into aluminum, and would be easy to strip) and tighten the screws. Replace the blind. On the outside, scrape with a plastic scraper the excess butyl that will have squeezed out - there should be some "squeeze" all the way around, a good sign that it the window is sealed nicely; the excess butyl will remove easily. The butyl will continue to squeeze out for a week or so, then again remove the excess and caulk the top and partway down the sides of the window.

I was able to do one window a day easily - two a day if I was energetic, maybe three if I had some good help.

Good luck.

[teevman]

Thanks for the tips.

I washed my roof off today for starters and will be working on the eternabond first then the windows (small one first). After you have applied the butyl to the window then reinstall does the frame sit as tight against the siding as before? I notice right now it is so tight against the siding that it would seem to be near impossible for water to enter.

I was also checking out the caulking on the trailer today and noticed around all the storage compartments and other areas that there is what almost appears to be some type of clear tape like product used as a sealant, it looks too good a job to be caulking but maybe their just better at it than I am. They also appear to have used two different types of sealant on the trailer roof. The TV antenna has nice clean white caulking but the other areas like the vents and rubber roof seam at the front have more of a sandsone color and texture caulking, hopefully the eternabond will stick to it.

[RVhiker]

Originally Posted by teevman

Thanks for the tips.

I washed my roof off today for starters and will be working on the eternabond first then the windows (small one first). After you have applied the butyl to the window then reinstall does the frame sit as tight against the siding as before? I notice right now it is so tight against the siding that it would seem to be near impossible for water to enter.

I was also checking out the caulking on the trailer today and noticed around all the storage compartments and other areas that there is what almost appears to be some type of clear tape like product used as a sealant, it looks too good a job to be caulking but maybe their just better at it than I am. They also appear to have used two different types of sealant on the trailer roof. The TV antenna has nice clean white caulking but the other areas like the vents and rubber roof seam at the front have more of a sandsone color and texture caulking, hopefully the eternabond will stick to it.

Your window will sit as tight as it did before.

My Jayco used different sealants on the roof of my trailer, too. They all started off completely snow white. One type of sealant stayed white, but the other fairly quickly got a light to dark brown. I noticed that this sealant stayed slightly sticky on top but the one that stayed white quit being sticky. So I think your sandstone colored sealants may just be dirty. Be sure to clean, clean, clean with an Eternabond approved solvent before applying the Eternabond --- but don't get the roofing material wet with solvent- don't leave a puddle of solvent fluid on the roof.

The Jayco caulkers are excellent at applying a good looking caulk, and there is a clear caulk available so that may be what the tape like caulk is that you see.

Someone (I can't find the quote for attribution) in this forum recently pointed out that 1/8" butyl works well for hard sided trailers, but the aluminum corrugated ones needed a thicker (3/8"?) butyl.

[teevman]

I was reading on the Alpha site Not to use any Solvents on the material as it will damage the membrane. I take it from that you didn't go to heavy with the acetone, eternabonds cleaner has acetone in it and they claim it's safe, so who the heck do you believe,lol.

[Rustic Eagle]

As far as applying EnternaBond while under warranty, if it was my new TT I would hold off. I would make the extra effort to insure that all seams/caulking remain in good shape during the warranty period per Jayco recommendations. If by chance there is a warranty service claim filed for some roof or seam related issue then Jayco can't use the application of EternaBond as a reason for not approving a given warranty claim. Having said that, IMO the application of EnternaBond RV sealer tape will outperform caulking hands down!

On my 7 year old Eagle, I just completed a little "preventative" EnternaBond project: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...r-Tape-Project

Bob

[teevman]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

As far as applying EnternaBond while under warranty, if it was my new TT I would hold off. I would make the extra effort to insure that all seams/caulking remain in good shape during the warranty period per Jayco recommendations. If by chance there is a warranty service claim filed for some roof or seam related issue then Jayco can't use the application of EternaBond as a reason for not approving a given warranty claim. Having said that, IMO the application of EnternaBond RV sealer tape will outperform caulking hands down!

On my 7 year old Eagle, I just completed a little "preventative" EnternaBond project: http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...r-Tape-Project

Bob

You would think applying Eternabond would be under the description of keeping the seals in good shape but i suppose they don't look at it that way, anything to get out of warranty.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by teevman

snip...... anything to get out of warranty.

I'm not suggesting with certainty that is what Jayco would do (or any RV manufacture)...., it's just difficult to predict how flexible any manufacture would be with "warranty interpretation" when paying out on a warranty service claim.

What I can say is that a few years ago I had a considerable roof leak problem with my Jayco Eagle, and Jayco made all the required repairs without question (was an expensive warranty repair).., but I also followed Jayco's preventative maintenance requirements as specified while under warranty.

Just food for thought.

Bob