Fix for front end cap fade?

[davolson]

We picked up our 2018 28.5 RSTS in May from our inside storage area in Northern WI. (stored inside two winters). We noticed the dreaded high end cap oxidation with spring cleaning. (Waxed, 303 etc twice per year normally). Our warranty had expired the end of march. On contacting Jayco about this known recurrent problem, we were told it is a "owner maintenance issue". We contacted our dealer who also tried to get approval for repainting as it was "barely" out of warranty, stored inside located in Northern WI, not AZ etc. We got nowhere, despite the fact that our dealer said they probably had had a dozen repainted in the past few years and it was a known problem. (Numerous posts in earlier threads comment that Jayco stepped up and covered the painting).
So... 1) has anyone had any success at repairing this short of the drastic sanding, repainting etc? I have tried marine fiberglass oxidation restorer with no luck. Does anything work? Is this gelcoat and should I just keep buffing it out?
2) If you live up north, don't buy a trailer at the end of March when it will run out of warranty while still in storage.
3) Not to turn this into a rant, as I've been been pretty loyal buying 3
Jaycos in the past 5 years... but to have them reply "this is a owner maintenance issue" when all know they have had a problem with this and randomly covered it for others is quite frustrating. I'll try to fix it if possible, but otherwise it looks like another brand is in our near future.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by davolson

We picked up our 2018 28.5 RSTS in May from our inside storage area in Northern WI. (stored inside two winters). We noticed the dreaded high end cap oxidation with spring cleaning. (Waxed, 303 etc twice per year normally). Our warranty had expired the end of march. On contacting Jayco about this known recurrent problem, we were told it is a "owner maintenance issue". We contacted our dealer who also tried to get approval for repainting as it was "barely" out of warranty, stored inside located in Northern WI, not AZ etc. We got nowhere, despite the fact that our dealer said they probably had had a dozen repainted in the past few years and it was a known problem. (Numerous posts in earlier threads comment that Jayco stepped up and covered the painting).
So... 1) has anyone had any success at repairing this short of the drastic sanding, repainting etc? I have tried marine fiberglass oxidation restorer with no luck. Does anything work? Is this gelcoat and should I just keep buffing it out?
2) If you live up north, don't buy a trailer at the end of March when it will run out of warranty while still in storage.
3) Not to turn this into a rant, as I've been been pretty loyal buying 3
Jaycos in the past 5 years... but to have them reply "this is a owner maintenance issue" when all know they have had a problem with this and randomly covered it for others is quite frustrating. I'll try to fix it if possible, but otherwise it looks like another brand is in our near future.

Sorry, that you are also having to endure this.

I think the only "fix" is to have real bodywork done. There are others that have posted band aides, but when clear or paint fails, there is only one fix.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ing-65323.html

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...cap-77908.html

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...aps-72084.html

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...sts-67290.html

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...del-38839.html


They obviously know this is a problem. They probably won't extend coverage when not told about it by expiration of the warranty date.

Mine has returned to a dealer 4 times for this and been painted twice. Months and months of non-use availability to the owner.

[Mopar_Earl]

Only way to fix it long term is to sand it down and paint it. Mine was done under warranty. Dealer took it to a local to them truck body shop that did fiberglass semi hoods. Looked better than factory and still looks good several years later.


Earl

[davolson]

Thanks for the replies and other links that I had missed, so wont re hash this topic. Trying to remove the oxidation did nothing it seems, so not likely to find another fix short of sanding down and repainting.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

Only way to fix it long term is to sand it down and paint it.

Or get a custom vinyl wrap done on the front. I wrapped my complete rig, and it came with a 5 year warranty on the vinyl. After a year and a half, the vinyl still looks like brand new, and dirt doesn't stick to it.

[Big1]

I have the same problem now, I have being trying to call the dealer to make them aware of the problem for the last two to three days now with no return call, so Monday I have to take my wife car to the shop to get some warranty done and I will go right by the dealer so my plan is to go there in person.

My warranty is not up until next year in July so I want to get on it now way before my warranty run out. We have been thinking about traded up so it might be a good time to start looking.

[madmaxmutt]

Take pictures with you, if you are not taking the trailer.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Or get a custom vinyl wrap done on the front. I wrapped my complete rig, and it came with a 5 year warranty on the vinyl. After a year and a half, the vinyl still looks like brand new, and dirt doesn't stick to it.

That sounds more expensive. What that cost you?


Earl

[davolson]

I first sent all pictures and history to Jayco directly, and only got back the "this is an owner maintenance issue". After that smoldered a week or so knowing that is was a well known problem for years, I went to the dealer and also brought the pictures. They contacted Jayco and "brought it to a higher level". I even had them tell them that even any partial contribution in good faith to help would be appreciated.. but nothing.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

That sounds more expensive. What that cost you?

I would bet it would cost less to wrap that front section then get it completely resanded and painted. I did my whole rig, including removing off the Redhawk striping and Jayco decals for $3800. Just the front cap would be way less, probably under $1000., and he could get whatever design and colors he wanted.

[DNelson]

Good timing I guess because I logged on today to post my recent attempt to get rid of the fading problem. I use the word attempt but hope in the next year or two I can call it a successful fix.

After reading all the threads I decided to do the repair work myself because our 2018 28.5 RSTS was out of warranty and I figured a plea or battle with Jayco would get me nowhere. I started by deciding to use an automotive two-part 2K clearcoat with a cheap (~$15) Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun. I have painted a couple cars before so the work didn't scare me off. The first decision was how far down should I clearcoat; stop before the bird decal or below it. After some deliberation I decided to remove the decal rather that try to mask or paint over it. I used a hair drier to warm up the decal and peeled off easily with almost no adhesive remaining. The little that remained was easily removed with lacquer thinner. I figure if we decide we want a decal up there we will replace it with an American flag or a timberwolf.

I masked just above the Jayco decal across the middle and angle up at the sides (see photos). I then wet sanded the surface with 400 sandpaper being careful not to sand through the clear gelcoat. I also masked and sanded the small gelcoat areas between the decals around on the sides. After washing the sanded areas I wiped them with an automotive pre-paint solvent. I final masked the area with a good 3M automotive tape, 18-inch paper then some cheap plastic in areas I thought might get wind drift overspray.

I set up a non-OSHA approved scaffold to allow me to reach the entire area to be painted. I sprayed the first coat, let it set for the recommended 10-15 minutes and put on a second coat. I used nearly one quart of clearcoat and at a 4:1 mixture almost all of a 1/2 pint of hardener/catalyst. It layed down nicely with very little orange peel and some areas with none. I could have done a little better with two levels of scaffolding. I did get a few smal dust particles (or maybe if was western fire ash) in some places but it is hard to see and could easily be removed if I wanted to color sand it out and buff. I am not going to bother because it looks very good now. Right now it has more shine than the original gelcoat. I might buff out the lower gelcoat later to see if they match more closely. Actually the clearcoat paint line looks very similar to a vinyl wrap put on some car and truck hoods so I will probably just leave it as is.

I will add an update post next summer after some winter snowbird travels to let everyone know how it is holding up.

Oh, almost forgot...final cost about $75 including paint gun!

[davolson]

Wow! Great work. Thanks for the info and pictures!

[Marko]

I vinyl wrapped (Diamond Shield)18 inches drown from the top of the cap as that's where most of my oxidation was. I did this last year for $375.00 and it still looks good.

You need to first use McGuire's Oxidation Remover and use a buffer to take it off with a splash of water while buffing. Then apply the MaGuire's Cleaner Wax and wipe if off with Micro fiber cloth. Last apply MaGuire's high polishing wax allow to lightly dry and then use a buffer with a polishing pads.

Or just follow the steps from MaGuire's to remove oxidation. Once I did the three step process I didn't want to ever have to do this again so I add the vinyl strip called Diamond Shield at the top 18 inches. This was done at shop the does final graphics for trucks or race cars. It took one day to have the vinyl applied. I posted this before.

This does work. My rig sits directly into the sun for six months of the year for the last five years in Southern Florida. When I get back home in Chicago my rig faces the north so I do get a break.

So all I do now is apply the MaGuire's Cleaner Wax below the vinyl (Diamond Shield) strip on the noses cap and the apply MaGuire's high polishing wax. BTW I use Blue Coral Wash & Wax (Walmart $3.88) first, one day before I start the waxing process. Looks great.

Marko

[Marko]

Before Diamond Shield

[Marko]

After Diamond Shield installed.

[Jim Smyth]

Originally Posted by DNelson

Good timing I guess because I logged on today to post my recent attempt to get rid of the fading problem. I use the word attempt but hope in the next year or two I can call it a successful fix.

After reading all the threads I decided to do the repair work myself because our 2018 28.5 RSTS was out of warranty and I figured a plea or battle with Jayco would get me nowhere. I started by deciding to use an automotive two-part 2K clearcoat with a cheap (~$15) Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun. I have painted a couple cars before so the work didn't scare me off. The first decision was how far down should I clearcoat; stop before the bird decal or below it. After some deliberation I decided to remove the decal rather that try to mask or paint over it. I used a hair drier to warm up the decal and peeled off easily with almost no adhesive remaining. The little that remained was easily removed with lacquer thinner. I figure if we decide we want a decal up there we will replace it with an American flag or a timberwolf.

I masked just above the Jayco decal across the middle and angle up at the sides (see photos). I then wet sanded the surface with 400 sandpaper being careful not to sand through the clear gelcoat. I also masked and sanded the small gelcoat areas between the decals around on the sides. After washing the sanded areas I wiped them with an automotive pre-paint solvent. I final masked the area with a good 3M automotive tape, 18-inch paper then some cheap plastic in areas I thought might get wind drift overspray.

I set up a non-OSHA approved scaffold to allow me to reach the entire area to be painted. I sprayed the first coat, let it set for the recommended 10-15 minutes and put on a second coat. I used nearly one quart of clearcoat and at a 4:1 mixture almost all of a 1/2 pint of hardener/catalyst. It layed down nicely with very little orange peel and some areas with none. I could have done a little better with two levels of scaffolding. I did get a few smal dust particles (or maybe if was western fire ash) in some places but it is hard to see and could easily be removed if I wanted to color sand it out and buff. I am not going to bother because it looks very good now. Right now it has more shine than the original gelcoat. I might buff out the lower gelcoat later to see if they match more closely. Actually the clearcoat paint line looks very similar to a vinyl wrap put on some car and truck hoods so I will probably just leave it as is.

I will add an update post next summer after some winter snowbird travels to let everyone know how it is holding up.

Oh, almost forgot...final cost about $75 including paint gun!

I also did the clear but used a few shaker cans of 2 stage auto clear and tapped off the Jayco decal. Coming up a little over a year and still looks good. Re clearing is the key if you dont wait too long.


https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...l-67625-5.html

[Big1]

Originally Posted by DNelson

Good timing I guess because I logged on today to post my recent attempt to get rid of the fading problem. I use the word attempt but hope in the next year or two I can call it a successful fix.

After reading all the threads I decided to do the repair work myself because our 2018 28.5 RSTS was out of warranty and I figured a plea or battle with Jayco would get me nowhere. I started by deciding to use an automotive two-part 2K clearcoat with a cheap (~$15) Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun. I have painted a couple cars before so the work didn't scare me off. The first decision was how far down should I clearcoat; stop before the bird decal or below it. After some deliberation I decided to remove the decal rather that try to mask or paint over it. I used a hair drier to warm up the decal and peeled off easily with almost no adhesive remaining. The little that remained was easily removed with lacquer thinner. I figure if we decide we want a decal up there we will replace it with an American flag or a timberwolf.

I masked just above the Jayco decal across the middle and angle up at the sides (see photos). I then wet sanded the surface with 400 sandpaper being careful not to sand through the clear gelcoat. I also masked and sanded the small gelcoat areas between the decals around on the sides. After washing the sanded areas I wiped them with an automotive pre-paint solvent. I final masked the area with a good 3M automotive tape, 18-inch paper then some cheap plastic in areas I thought might get wind drift overspray.

I set up a non-OSHA approved scaffold to allow me to reach the entire area to be painted. I sprayed the first coat, let it set for the recommended 10-15 minutes and put on a second coat. I used nearly one quart of clearcoat and at a 4:1 mixture almost all of a 1/2 pint of hardener/catalyst. It layed down nicely with very little orange peel and some areas with none. I could have done a little better with two levels of scaffolding. I did get a few smal dust particles (or maybe if was western fire ash) in some places but it is hard to see and could easily be removed if I wanted to color sand it out and buff. I am not going to bother because it looks very good now. Right now it has more shine than the original gelcoat. I might buff out the lower gelcoat later to see if they match more closely. Actually the clearcoat paint line looks very similar to a vinyl wrap put on some car and truck hoods so I will probably just leave it as is.

I will add an update post next summer after some winter snowbird travels to let everyone know how it is holding up.

Oh, almost forgot...final cost about $75 including paint gun!

What an awesome job, I'm going through the same thing now trying to get Jayco to repaint mines. I sent some pics to the dealer the guy said he have to get Jayco to approved it.

[Fork in the road]

Originally Posted by davolson

We picked up our 2018 28.5 RSTS in May from our inside storage area in Northern WI. (stored inside two winters). We noticed the dreaded high end cap oxidation with spring cleaning. (Waxed, 303 etc twice per year normally). Our warranty had expired the end of march. On contacting Jayco about this known recurrent problem, we were told it is a "owner maintenance issue". We contacted our dealer who also tried to get approval for repainting as it was "barely" out of warranty, stored inside located in Northern WI, not AZ etc. We got nowhere, despite the fact that our dealer said they probably had had a dozen repainted in the past few years and it was a known problem. (Numerous posts in earlier threads comment that Jayco stepped up and covered the painting).
So... 1) has anyone had any success at repairing this short of the drastic sanding, repainting etc? I have tried marine fiberglass oxidation restorer with no luck. Does anything work? Is this gelcoat and should I just keep buffing it out?
2) If you live up north, don't buy a trailer at the end of March when it will run out of warranty while still in storage.
3) Not to turn this into a rant, as I've been been pretty loyal buying 3
Jaycos in the past 5 years... but to have them reply "this is a owner maintenance issue" when all know they have had a problem with this and randomly covered it for others is quite frustrating. I'll try to fix it if possible, but otherwise it looks like another brand is in our near future.

I purchased a Poli Glow kit from Amazon for my 2019 front cap. I followed the directions exactly an it turned out great. I applied 8 coats. I could not believe that the gel coat didn’t even last a year. Shame on you Jayco.

[Dashersdad]

I had the same problem and it was not oxidation but a build up of wax that was causing the fade. Easy fix. Pick up a bottle of Zepp Floor Polish Remover. Using a spray bottle, spray it on the finish (full strength) and let sit for 15-20 seconds. Wash off and rinse well. Do a section approximately 3' x 3' at a time. When there is no shine left, the wax is removed. Cover the area with Zepp Wet Look Floor Polish (full strength) using the same 3' x3' method. Apply thin coats. It will take about 4 to 5 thin coats. Dries fast so you can apply each coat in the same area until finished. Comes out looking like new. Be sure to use rubber gloves when applying the polish. Total cost is less than $50 and there is enough to do your whole 5th wheel.

[Jab55]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Or get a custom vinyl wrap done on the front. I wrapped my complete rig, and it came with a 5 year warranty on the vinyl. After a year and a half, the vinyl still looks like brand new, and dirt doesn't stick to it.

Did your MH used to be all white....I assumed from the pics that it was a painted model....I was kind of bummed I didn't get the paint option...but it was a great deal. If I can get a vinyl wrap that looks like paint I'm in. What kind of maintenance is involved....do you need to wax it ? Big question what was the cost.... By the way you MH looks great.