Frozen water heater feed hose

[Lowmiler]

Had a bit of a surprise today dewinterizing the rig in prep for our Florida trip tomorrow. Hooked everything up, flipped the levers back to city water, popped open the bleed valve on the water heater, turned on city water and... no water to the heater.

Scratched my head for a while, dreading a trip with no hot water, and then started to tear into the water distribution panel. I verified water was getting all the way to the hot water directional valve, and would bypass the heater when flipped to winterize, flipped it back to city, and then unscrewed the hose from on back of the heater and no water came out.

It then dawned on my that even if you drain your water heater, once you flip the valves to winterize, you still have residual water in that feed hose to the heater. Unless you blow out the lines while in city water mode, that hose will freeze.

Which it did. But didn’t split, thankfully, and now that the underbelly is toasty, that hose has thawed and we’re back in business.

Maybe everyone knows this already, I didn’t. Never bit me before, either.

[JFlightRisk]

Good advice. That may help other members with the same situation.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

It then dawned on my that even if you drain your water heater, once you flip the valves to winterize, you still have residual water in that feed hose to the heater. Unless you blow out the lines while in city water mode, that hose will freeze.

Which it did. But didn’t split, thankfully, and now that the underbelly is toasty, that hose has thawed and we’re back in business.

Maybe everyone knows this already, I didn’t. Never bit me before, either.

Interesting, I was wondering about that point on the heater, and even pointed it out a few months ago in a winterizing thread. Looking at the heater, I thought that point would be a freeze point, you just confirmed it.

And I thought the same thing, if it wasn't blown out with air, it would freeze, since the normal winterization with AF wouldn't put get to that point. That's why I blew out my system with air first, and did a quick crack of the lower valve to allow some AF into that lower connection too.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

That's why I blew out my system with air first, and did a quick crack of the lower valve to allow some AF into that lower connection too.

X-2 Just be sure the vertical line is closed for a few seconds when blowing it out, adds more pressure to that lower connection.

[DonaandDon]

Totally agree with the Wet-bay concerns. Often overlooked like the suction strainer on the freshwater pump, which by the way is normally found when you de-winterize in the spring. Just don't ask me how I know.

[Jagiven]

I too use the air compressor, and exercise each valve to blow any accumulated water that stands behind a valve. Another set of valves I'm concerned with are the 2 low point drains under my bathroom sink.

[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

I too use the air compressor, and exercise each valve to blow any accumulated water that stands behind a valve.

So I’ve always been under the impression not to switch valve levers when under pressure?

[Bookemdanno]

Originally Posted by DonaandDon

Totally agree with the Wet-bay concerns. Often overlooked like the suction strainer on the freshwater pump, which by the way is normally found when you de-winterize in the spring. Just don't ask me how I know.

I know that one too!