Furnace Issue With a Twist

[tld]

This issue falls into the category of “nothing I can really do about it” but I was just curious if anyone else has experienced the issue. So, in my first Eagle, the furnace was located under the kitchen cabinet. In my second Eagle it was located (enclosed) in a pantry. In both cases, the cold air return was just inches from the furnace and the furnace drew air from the already warmed air in the trailers living area. However, on my current Eagle, the furnace is essentially in the basement on one side and the cold air return is on the opposite side of the trailer and is part of the steps going to the bedroom. Since there is no insulation value built into the basement doors, it gets pretty cold, pretty fast in the basement. So, when the furnace is not running, tons of cold air comes spilling out of the cold air return into the living area. So, as an experiment, I sealed off the cold air return. That did not reduce the airflow from the furnace at all. But it did stop all the cold air from the basement rolling into the living area. But, that does now mean that the air supply from the furnace is much colder than if it was pulling from the trailers living area. After sealing up the cold air return, I put a thermometer on the furnace duct furthest from the furnace ant got a temp reading of 89 degrees. I didn’t measure the temp before sealing up the cold air return, but suspect that I would have gotten a little higher temp reading. So anyway, just wonder if anyone else has dealt with this same issue.

[RogerR]

Knowing nothing about your rig I would suggest that the pipe for the return is broken or not connected somewhere. As you said cold air rolled out in volume I would try crawling under there if you can or taking off the vent cover and seeing if it came off the air return vent. If the pipe is connected then very little air would come out of that vent.

[Jagiven]

remember cold air falls.

If there is enough room behind your return register, you could install a plywood panel leave the top open. This will make a cold air dam. Make sure there is enough open surface area not to starve the furnace.

[RoadrunnerII]

So our trailer is same layout and also a 5th.
Here's what we did:
Blocked off the step area but put a 4"flex duct into it and over to the cold air intake on the furnace. Used a stick on collector to 4"duct on furnace cold air intake.
No more cold draft at steps and furnace warms living area properly. There is a 2 or 3 inch heat duct behind the water valves so basement does get some heat from furnace.
Furnace does cycle properly and dang the living area warms faster.
We also added more insulation from basement to rear bumper under the floor and above coroplast. Floor actual does warm up.
It's better with the AC running too!

RoadrunnerII

[tld]

RogerR, thanks for your response. Unfortunately, Jayco did not even use a run of flexible duct from the cold air return to the furnace. They just let the whole basement be part of the cold air return.

[tld]

RoadrunnerII, thanks for responding. You've described my issue exactly! I will take a look at doing exactly what you did. Thanks.

[tld]

Roadrunner, can you give me more info on what you used to connect the 4-inch duct to the furnace? Thanks

[Rustic Eagle]

RoadrunnerII,

Could you possibly post a couple pics of your cold air return modification?

Thanks in advance..

Bob

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by tld

Roadrunner, can you give me more info on what you used to connect the 4-inch duct to the furnace? Thanks

Here's some pics from today... Had to change out my water filter canister but that's a whole different matter....
So here's pics of the cold air duct from furnace to the back of the stairs
Home depot or Lowes or any building centre should have a 4" flex tube and the fittings.. I had to remove two of the heat ducts to access the cold air intake. It's just like a vent cover but the 4" round duct catches most of it. Figured pulling a little cold from basement was ok. The pics of the heat ducts show the small tab which you turn to match cutout on furnace to release them.
I did this mod 2-3 years ago so the adhesive on the stick on 4"duct adapter is pretty good. I used a jig saw to cut the hole in the hardboard I used to block off the back of the steps. I put reflectix on the inside to insulate it a bit

It was an afternoon job if I remember
I also moved the rear basement wall to rear of trailer about 4 inches for more storage.
Just moved the backing 1x2 and the clips holding the pex water lines going to the low point drains on door side.

It was worth the effort for us!

RoadrunnerII

[RogerR]

It appears he used aluminum foil tape. Like duct tape but is heavy aluminum foil with adhesive backing. It works like duct tape in application (peel and stick) but will not degrade over time like the cloth of duct tape.

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by RogerR

It appears he used aluminum foil tape. Like duct tape but is heavy aluminum foil with adhesive backing. It works like duct tape in application (peel and stick) but will not degrade over time like the cloth of duct tape.

The fitting came with the foam tape on it.. Peel and stick
Used aluminum tape to seal up the back of steps. I used aluminum tape to seal up from the fitting to the flex duct on furnace end.

RoadrunnerII

[tld]

RoadrunnerII, thanks for the pics. This seems like a great solution. Too bad Jayco can't do it correctly from the start.

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by tld

RoadrunnerII, thanks for the pics. This seems like a great solution. Too bad Jayco can't do it correctly from the start.

Not just a Jayco issue Other brands do the same solution.
Same kinda crap blowing 2 inch hole thru I beam to put two wires for rear stabilizer Jack's. No grommet nothing
Now let's run on a rainy or snowy dirty day
Ugh!
Gorilla tape to the rescue!

RoadrunnerII