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Old 10-04-2018, 08:37 AM   #1
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Giving up on Dicor

So after all the years of multiple reseal efforts to fix cracked sealant (the clear is the worst) I'm going to just run Eternabond tape over the roof joints.

My Premier has brown aluminum that curves up from the wall to the roof edge and seems to have no support under the edge. The flexing during travel cracks the hardened clear sealant. The white just weather cracks and fails.

What Eternabond does everyone use? I looked on Amazon and they have a 4"x50' roll so I'll need 2 of those.

https://www.amazon.ca/EternaBond-RSW...rds=eternabond
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Old 10-04-2018, 10:46 AM   #2
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Thats what I used on the joint on the roof where the front cap meets the roof and on the rear where the roof meets the rear wall. One less area to caulk ever again.
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Old 10-04-2018, 02:30 PM   #3
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I used the 4x50 roll and did my front cap, rear seams, fridge vent, where the ladder screws into the roof and radio antenna and still had a few feet left over. Wherever you do it run a bead of self leveling Dicor along the edges of the tape.
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Old 10-04-2018, 03:21 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by TCNashville View Post
I used the 4x50 roll and did my front cap, rear seams, fridge vent, where the ladder screws into the roof and radio antenna and still had a few feet left over. Wherever you do it run a bead of self leveling Dicor along the edges of the tape.
I was considering using to cover the trim down either side of the roof. If I have to put Dicor all the way down the outer edge it isn't worth the trouble. I may as well maintain the OE caulking.
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Old 10-04-2018, 04:37 PM   #5
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I bought a roll of 6" x50' roll. It spanned the caulking really nicely over the frontcap. A 4" roll would have been to narrow, to ahe a complete 100% coverage.

I did around all my vents, frig, skylight. Only things I did not do was the TV antenna, as I ran out of time. These were vents where the hardest to do. They just took both of time and patiences.

One tip, do not stretch it. It appears to release the next day.
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:14 PM   #6
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I primarily want to do all the way down the strips that tie the side caps to the roof. If I do the front cap joint I'll remove some of the caulk first as there's a ton of it there. The 6" will be too wide to do down the sides.
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:17 PM   #7
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You can see the strip beside the solar panels
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Old 10-05-2018, 08:38 AM   #8
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Players, our ‘13 Premier has the curved metal trim along the sides and sounds just like yours. I E-bonded my seams 2-ish years back using white 2 4”x50’ rolls. The front cap required 2 strips as 4” wasn’t wide enough. Along the sides I only applied tape to the top edge covering the screws and caulking, I did not cover the curved pieces. I inspect the lower edges of those and touch up with dicor as needed. I’ve had 2 leaks since new, front cap and rear wall. Both were pre E-bond, none post.
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Old 10-05-2018, 09:00 AM   #9
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Players, our ‘13 Premier has the curved metal trim along the sides and sounds just like yours. I E-bonded my seams 2-ish years back using white 2 4”x50’ rolls. The front cap required 2 strips as 4” wasn’t wide enough. Along the sides I only applied tape to the top edge covering the screws and caulking, I did not cover the curved pieces. I inspect the lower edges of those and touch up with dicor as needed. I’ve had 2 leaks since new, front cap and rear wall. Both were pre E-bond, none post.
That's want I intend to do as well. The only place I've had leaks is where the curved metal meets the roof trim. My plan is to cover the trim and partway onto the curved metal. Won't be able to see it from the ground. I figure the 2x 50' will do all I need.
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