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Old 07-02-2021, 09:11 PM   #21
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I know you have an upcoming trip and I see grease coming out behind there. If it’s all still together and functioning, I’d leave it be till after the trip. This seems like something I’d dive into and regret not waiting till post trip.
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Old 07-02-2021, 10:11 PM   #22
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Big1,

Maybe drill it out and use an easy-out.

You know you are right I didn't think of that and since that is what I did on my job at Boeing as a Tooling I know about that, great thank you I will take care of that after I take my trips that we have plan so for now we are good on the grease.

I will take care of it this year so I can do that, great thanks again.
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Old 07-03-2021, 06:17 PM   #23
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I am also having trouble with greasing two of my wet bolts. I was thinking perhaps the suspension spring or assembly exerts pressure via the bolt against the bushing preventing grease coming out the internal grease opening. I have also heard of some that cross drill the grease outlet to help minimize this issue if it is true.

I had not considered that I might have a defective zerk fitting. That is interesting to consider.
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Old 07-03-2021, 06:31 PM   #24
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I have 2 zerk fittings that won’t take grease unless I take weight off of the suspension.
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Old 07-03-2021, 06:37 PM   #25
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And that is what I did, I at least was able to use my leveling jacks to lift it some but I don't know if it was enough but it work.
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Old 07-03-2021, 08:52 PM   #26
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Wet bolts...
Before installing mine I tried to put grease through them.
One of the twelve bolts would not accept grease, and it was the bolt not the fitting.

Big1- if the issue is that you don't have room to swing the hammer, how about a great big long punch? I have no clue how your would use vise grips since the bolt isn't supposed to turn.

If you can't drive it out, how about pressing it out?
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Old 07-03-2021, 09:29 PM   #27
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I installed my own wet bolts on my trailer. The tool linked below was what I used to press in the individual bolts:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...set/557231_0_0
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Old 07-03-2021, 09:55 PM   #28
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Trying to pound them out is a bad idea because you can easily bend the spring hangers. I soaked mine with Liquid Wrench overnight the used a big C clamp and some deep sockets to press them out. The splines on the bolt are only about 1/2 inch long, so once you get the bolt to move it will come out pretty easy.

There are other ideas shown on YouTube that you might go look at. Just make sure the frame is well supported on jack stands that can handle the weight of the trailer and avoid getting under the trailer if possible.
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Old 07-04-2021, 11:03 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by nutdriver View Post
I installed my own wet bolts on my trailer. The tool linked below was what I used to press in the individual bolts:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...set/557231_0_0



I should have been more clear in my post above but this tool an be borrowed from Autozone after placing a deposit. The deposit is taken off once you return the tool.
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Old 07-04-2021, 11:48 AM   #30
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Wet bolts...
Before installing mine I tried to put grease through them.
One of the twelve bolts would not accept grease, and it was the bolt not the fitting.

Big1- if the issue is that you don't have room to swing the hammer, how about a great big long punch? I have no clue how your would use vise grips since the bolt isn't supposed to turn.

If you can't drive it out, how about pressing it out?

I was just using the vise grip to try to take off the zerk fitting.
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Old 07-04-2021, 11:56 AM   #31
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Thank you guys for your comments I am learning how to do it myself but I don't have the means to do it on where I have my 5th wheel store at. We have been out looking my wife and I trying to find a place that have the space for our rv but I'm not finding nothing.
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Old 07-04-2021, 01:19 PM   #32
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RV storage facilities discourage doing work on RV’s, but if I have to do any work to the driveline outside, I usually try to do it on Sunday, less traffic and the on-site Manager is away.
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Old 07-04-2021, 01:37 PM   #33
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Lol, you are right and since it is kind of in the wooded area it might be doable.
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Old 07-04-2021, 03:19 PM   #34
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The instructions for my wet bolts indicated the bolts should be oriented with the grease exiting to the side. It also indicates that weight should be taken off the axle's. When I grease my 5th Wheel axle's, I place block under my jacks and use my jacks to take the weight off the axles.
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Old 07-06-2021, 09:38 AM   #35
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Removing/Replacing Zerk Fittings

I use the following tool to remove zerk fittings that go bust:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Make sure you get the correct size, from your picture they fittings look to be 1/4-inch.

Also, a right angle grease fitting helps get the balance of the grease points that are hard to get behind the tire (you most likely have 7 fittings on each side: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For easy to get to fittings the Lock-n-Lube unit is the best imho: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 07-06-2021, 09:56 AM   #36
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Put the bolts in with zerk on inside. I had no problem greasing mine before factory service center replaced my springs. Had to pull tires let Jack drop
suspension to get grease in them. Real PIA. Next time gonna hook to truck, get a big hyd Jack and lift the FW up till suspension hangs and block up. Guess I will have to Jack and block each side a little at a time so frame does not twist to much.
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Old 07-06-2021, 08:44 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgelyhome View Post
The instructions for my wet bolts indicated the bolts should be oriented with the grease exiting to the side. It also indicates that weight should be taken off the axle's. When I grease my 5th Wheel axle's, I place block under my jacks and use my jacks to take the weight off the axles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlumia View Post
I use the following tool to remove zerk fittings that go bust:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Make sure you get the correct size, from your picture they fittings look to be 1/4-inch.

Also, a right angle grease fitting helps get the balance of the grease points that are hard to get behind the tire (you most likely have 7 fittings on each side: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For easy to get to fittings the Lock-n-Lube unit is the best imho: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock View Post
Put the bolts in with zerk on inside. I had no problem greasing mine before factory service center replaced my springs. Had to pull tires let Jack drop
suspension to get grease in them. Real PIA. Next time gonna hook to truck, get a big hyd Jack and lift the FW up till suspension hangs and block up. Guess I will have to Jack and block each side a little at a time so frame does not twist to much.

Thank you guys for your comment, now on the jack to lift the rv up how much weight pound will you need, 3 tons jack maybe?
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Old 07-06-2021, 09:42 PM   #38
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I went way over-kill with a 20 ton jack from Harbor Freight. Bought it on sale at a good price. The main reason I bought it was that it’s taller and it raises up higher, therefore using less blocks underneath to get the wheels off the ground. No worries about over loading it!
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Old 07-07-2021, 07:58 PM   #39
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I went way over-kill with a 20 ton jack from Harbor Freight. Bought it on sale at a good price. The main reason I bought it was that it’s taller and it raises up higher, therefore using less blocks underneath to get the wheels off the ground. No worries about over loading it!

I was just there today checking out jacks they had a 20 or a 30 tons for about $30-$40 dollars, I seen that they had that tall 30 tons jack I should had bought two but I decided to wait for now. Thank you for your comment.
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