Ground Control question

[Lowmiler]

What's protocol when parking on an uneven surface, especially side to side?

First step in Ground Control instructions states to park on a "reasonably" level surface.

If the surface isn't level, then what? Drive up on blocks or levelers, like the "old fashioned" way?

Can you then use the leveling rams as stabilizers, manually deploying each one?

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

What's protocol when parking on an uneven surface, especially side to side?

First step in Ground Control instructions states to park on a "reasonably" level surface.

If the surface isn't level, then what? Drive up on blocks or levelers, like the "old fashioned" way?

Can you then use the leveling rams as stabilizers, manually deploying each one?

Here is what I do....

If the rig is not level side to side, I use some blocks (or Anderson levelers) to make side to side as level as I can get. I try to get it to within .5 degrees.
Then I unhitch and level front to back keeping the trailer a bit nose high. After that, I hit auto level and let the ground control do the rest. Make sure you have enough blocks or lynx levelers under the jacks so you don't get an out of stroke error.

Good luck

[jasum]

You need to drive up on wood or blocks to get side to side level first...........

[Bookemdanno]

I'm along the lines of what Tom does, but I'm cheap! I carry four 1"x6" lumber cut to the length of the double axles. I use that for side to side level (I just eye ball it) and then hit the auto level button. Like Tom said, make sure you have blocks for each post or the system could go out of stroke.

[jasum]

Originally Posted by Bookemdanno

I'm along the lines of what Tom does, but I'm cheap! I carry four 1"x6" lumber cut to the length of the double axles. I use that for side to side level (I just eye ball it) and then hit the auto level button. Like Tom said, make sure you have blocks for each post or the system could go out of stroke.

I normally have a 2 x 6 and 1x 6, that has always been enough to get perfect side to side level.

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by Bookemdanno

I'm along the lines of what Tom does, but I'm cheap! I carry four 1"x6" lumber cut to the length of the double axles. I use that for side to side level (I just eye ball it) and then hit the auto level button. Like Tom said, make sure you have blocks for each post or the system could go out of stroke.

LOL Dan! Didn't you just upgrade to a brand new truck? I also use wood blocks but I think santa is bringing me some Anderson levelers for Christmas.

[Bookemdanno]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

LOL Dan! Didn't you just upgrade to a brand new truck? I also use wood blocks but I think santa is bringing me some Anderson levelers for Christmas.

That's the main reason why I'm cheap!! LOL

[theracqueteer]

I have found that you need to be within 1 or 2 inches of being level side to side or you will get an out of stroke situation. The middle and rear jacks are basically stabilizers and will only fine tune the leveling. So, yes you need to use leveling blocks to get level side to side. When I pull onto a site I check the level of the RV. If more than one degree out of level side to side I block up the low side to less than one degree. I also place at least a 3 inch thick piece of cribbing under the middle and rear stabilizers. More if needed when there is a significant difference in the level of the site from front to back. Since I started doing this I have not had any problems leveling the RV or getting out of stroke errors.

[Cflowers]

Same here. They did nothing magical with the 2018. Side to do side close to level and then some blocks under the middle and rear. Never had a problem. Someone said nose high before you hit auto level, absolutely a must.

[bdreinv]

Found some square steel I think 4X6, still use two wood blocks.Will level almost anywhere.We added simple level up front,gives us a better idea how we are from the start.Some times moving a foot or so helps us get a better starting point.Thanks

[Mopar_Earl]

Use enough blocks and it will level in any situation. I use Lego blocks. Never had a time it wouldn't level. She will put the wheels up in the air. Key is to don't let your jacks over stroke. We camp mostly in state parks and fields. Never ever had a level site.


Earl

[oh355mbqs]

Like Mopar_Earl said, I have never leveled the camper before using the auto-level. Why spend the money on the auto level if you are going to level it first anyway? My parking spot at home is not very level, the camper lifts 3 of the 4 wheels off of the ground every time. Makes it easy to adjust brakes, bearing maintenance etc. I carry blocks of wood with me, use either 1 or 2 under each leg depending on the site, then I hit the auto level button and let it do its thing. The blocks are made from old power pole cross arms (about 8" wide, 4" thick, then I cut them to about 12" long. I used screws to attach a piece of webbing to the ends as grab handles, works great for me.

[TxLoser]

Originally Posted by oh355mbqs

Like Mopar_Earl said, I have never leveled the camper before using the auto-level. Why spend the money on the auto level if you are going to level it first anyway? My parking spot at home is not very level, the camper lifts 3 of the 4 wheels off of the ground every time. Makes it easy to adjust brakes, bearing maintenance etc. I carry blocks of wood with me, use either 1 or 2 under each leg depending on the site, then I hit the auto level button and let it do its thing. The blocks are made from old power pole cross arms (about 8" wide, 4" thick, then I cut them to about 12" long. I used screws to attach a piece of webbing to the ends as grab handles, works great for me.

I cought myself a few times thinking I should level right to left first to keep the wheels on the ground and help the system. Then it occurred to me, the levelers carry the weight whether or not the wheels are touching earth. Now, I just stack the Legos and let it do it's thing. I will adjust the nose some if it's at an extreme angle after unhooking.



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[Rock]

Never have lifted the wheels off the ground (yet) but like said I have never leveled side by side first. Just auto level and let her rip. Factory replaced left landing gear and a breaker with a loose wire. Five levels since and all good so far.
Still cannot get use to the moaning and creaking while it levels.
Rock

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Rock

Never have lifted the wheels off the ground (yet) but like said I have never leveled side by side first. Just auto level and let her rip. Factory replaced left landing gear and a breaker with a loose wire. Five levels since and all good so far.
Still cannot get use to the moaning and creaking while it levels.
Rock

Most if not all that creaking is probably your nylon suspension bushings. Go wet bolts.


Earl

[bdreinv]

Originally Posted by Rock

Never have lifted the wheels off the ground (yet) but like said I have never leveled side by side first. Just auto level and let her rip. Factory replaced left landing gear and a breaker with a loose wire. Five levels since and all good so far.
Still cannot get use to the moaning and creaking while it levels.
Rock

That moaning and croaking is metal on metal in the suspension caused by the plastic bushing installed at the factory.Mine lasted about 12 months If you are still under warranty might take it in.Its quite the job to do at home.Its seems a lot of members replace the bushings with never fail bushings or wet bolt system.Another example of JAYCO jumping for dollars $$ vs safety.Thanks

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by Rock

Never have lifted the wheels off the ground (yet) but like said I have never leveled side by side first. Just auto level and let her rip. Factory replaced left landing gear and a breaker with a loose wire. Five levels since and all good so far.
Still cannot get use to the moaning and creaking while it levels.
Rock

I’m getting my left landing gear fixed as we speak. Didn’t ever have problems before my last outing. Luckily I’m still inside my warranty period.


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[Rock]

Mine came with wet bolts. Factory just replaced lippert 3500 lb leafs with Dexter 4000 lb, all new wet bolts and new morride spring rubber from a 20 to a 26 or 28.
Raised unit two inches and now also level behind truck.
My G rated left rear tire sidewall would occasionally rub on the lower inside slide lip. No problem with clearance above just to the sidewall of tire. That cured the rub and is now the field fix for others with tire sidewall rub problem.

Back to moaning and creaking. U can see the frame flex slightly during leveling. Mine has a 10 inch frame in 2017 they went to 12 inch frame on Northpoints, Pinnacles and Designers. They did that so one frame for the big three and cure the flex frame problems.

[Rock]

Tom
What problem did u have with your jack? Mine would stop and than move again and give jack error, than would not retract unless I did the jack reset. Besides the breaker they said the jack had metal burrs. Also noticed upon getting home the underbelly behind rear wheels has a cut or it split open about three ft. Not sure if the factory did that to get to rear sensor but I have to seal it up. I use to also get out of Stroke errors to.
Rock

[Magnolia Tom]

Rock
I had the same issues as you. Last trip out I spent 4 hours trying to get set up because left jack wouldn’t extend, kept getting LF error, then out of stroke, etc.

I think there’s something like metal shavings or something jamming the inner workings.


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