Help. Water leak

[Rock]

Fulltime living in FW while home is repaired. Water is dripping from where the drain valve connects to gray tank. There is a big hose clamp around the tank flange that the valve pushes into. Is there an o ring on that pipe? All the underneath plumbing is connected together and pretty ridged to move. I tightened clamp and that slowed the drip. Trying to figure out what seals it. There is bunch of I call it monkey snot around the pipe that pushes into the tank and clamp is around tank flange. Anyone have this apart????
Rock

[Rock]

Here is a pic

[Rock]

Come on someone has had to deal with this. Just ordered repair tape for where I had to cut numerous places to find my leak

[nisbitch]

I’ve repaired a leak on a drain in my house with self-amalgamating electrical tape. It seals to itself. I wouldn’t consider it a forever fix though. Good luck.

[Rock]

I found this online. I cannot believe this is put together like this. I have tried and tried and it still drips. The way the pipes all connect I cannot even pull the pipe out of the flange, clamp loose it will wiggle and that is it. Only thing I can do is cut pipe (would have to go together with a slipe fitting with rubber seals). If I take shut off valve apart that would give 1/2 inch of room and not sure if that is enough to pull pipe out, clean and try again.


Great question Roger! You’ll see that set-up often, the clamp (and sealant), whenever the holding tank is made out of HDPE; high-density polyethylene. All waste plumbing including the outlet pipe is made of ABS. Unfortunately, you cannot cement, bond or weld dissimilar thermoplastics. The actual outlet fitting on an HDPE tank is tapered a little and some technicians could not understand that the tighter you tightened the clamp, the more it tried to squeeze the ABS pipe out of the hole. It is necessary to cut the ABS outlet pipe to just the right length so that it wouldn’t slip out and such that it would not protrude too far into the tank outlet, trapping debris under the outer circumference of the pipe sticking inside the tank. It wasn’t necessarily a great design but when coupled in tandem to the other tank outlet via the whole termination assembly, it sufficed. Today you’ll mostly see spun-on or welded threaded fittings to make that connection. Pictured here is the sealant I use. Just slop it on the outside of the pipe and tighten the clamp just enough to keep it from leaking. It sill might be possible to manually rotate the pipe in the tank outlet, but once you reconnect the entire waste manifold, all will stay in place.

[klassic]

Try using two clamps and don’t put them killer tight.

[klassic]

Or https://www.permawrap.com/where-to-use-permawrap

[Rock]

Klassic,
U cannot double clamp it because the tank flange is flared or should I say tapered and pretty thick. U really have to crank on the hose clamp to even get the flare to hold tight to the pvc pipe. I just think what moron would even think of such a stupid design. At least make the tank flange round so the pvc would slipe inside and than u could double clamp it and use thread sealer. I called Jayco and they could not give me a fix, have to research and get back to me. So I removed the clamp and the way all the tank drains are connected together u can just move the pipe about 3/8 inch. So after forcing the pvc pipe in and out slightly I reinstalled clamp. So far no more leak. At every campground I lv the gray valves open. At the house using a macerator pump the kitchen gray tank fills quickly. I also noticed even though there is a metal hanger supporting the main dump tube it can still bounce up and down by just hand pressure,that than really moves the pvc pipe going into flange. I am going to make a solid mount from frame to the dump just before the end. This way going down the road it cannot giggle or bounce.
So now nothing like worrying when will it leak again. With four tanks I hope the others are different than this one. So now I have two things to bet on which fails first, kitchen schwintec or gray tank!!!!!
Rock

[mikegray]

I had similar problem on my Flight 26BH when I got it home the first time. (it is a used TT not new). Had to take it back to dealer twice before they finally fixed it. They took out all the piping to the tank and put in new. So far so good. Good luck.
Mike

[rodro123]

This video will help you out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1YW3_ENCCY

[Rock]

My problem I have extended warranty but cannot take it anywhere since we live in it. So far another day and no drip.

[Rock]

They now do make a HDPE to pvc glue. The problem with how Jayco or Lippert did this is the fact that the pvc pipe goes into a tapered flange. Since no pressure they just apply monkey snot and a hose clamp. The pipe than goes to the valve does a 180 and is than glued to the main dump line. Since it cannot move this holds it from sliding out of the tank tapered flange. So far no more leak. Once I make my solid mount for the main line that should keep these pipes from giggling while bouncing down our highways. I am surprised that they just used cheap foil coated bubble wrap for insulation. That is just above the belly board. I was expecting to see some type of batten insulation. Now I can see why my floor is so cold except above the heater duct run. So if ur heater fails tanks will freeze fast. I just got the belly board tape and a three ft wide roll of that thin poly (paper thickness)material that u use to cover under mobile home bottoms. I am not sure if I can tape the three foot section of belly board back in place. My belly board is super wavy where I cut it out. If not than I have to use that thin material.
Here is a tip, wish I would of done this. Cut open the bottom on an angle and not straight thru the board and only cut three sides. This way u can push it back up and it will than lay against ur angle cut.