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Old 10-19-2017, 07:48 PM   #1
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Here’s more on my brakes.

For those who know my previous “no braking” problem...the story still isn’t over.
No brakes since day one yada yada yada..dealer finally got Lippert to replace everything because of the grease. That was late April of this year.
I tested it that day I picked it up, still nothing. But it seemed to get better after 15 mins.
I took it back after 1/2 hour or so, and said it still sucked....but the driver rear rim was so hot you couldn’t touch it at all. I showed the service guy, we sort of blew it off because I still had no brakes.
Anyways. Since then I started getting brakes..but only after 15 minutes of driving and braking.
This I could deal with, it’s like this everytime I take it out. I would start the controller at 10, and soon be at 7/7.5.
But I always noticed that driver rear rim was really hot.
I finally said something, because I had to bring the rig in for a messed up slide, ugg.
They’ve had the unit for 3 weeks now. Basically want me to pay for new backing plate and rim (completely ruined)
I said F that.
Now they are trying to get Lippert to pay. Lippert says they already “good willed” me new brakes.
Well thanks for good willing me new brakes to replace the ones that never worked.
Now I’ve missed 2 weekend trips (end of the year too) because no one wants to pay for a new brake.
WTH!

Ps. Here’s my therory on why a bunch of us have no braking with grease on the brakes....and maybe why Rock had a rim melted to his drum on his first trip out.

The guy or guys delivering rigs have to pay for maintenance on their own tow rigs. So they are probably using full trailer brakes and not giving a crap. Over heating them and ruining the grease seals....which I have been accused of doing on my drive out of the dealers lot the first day I picked up the new rig.
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:40 PM   #2
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New brakes require a break in. It's called burnishing. It heats up the lining and cures it. It also makes the lining wear to match the drum. So it's normal to have weak brakes until they are burnished.
Sounds like they over adjusted the one new brake assembly and caused the heat. Or they didn't adjust them and it was too tight and needed backed off.
I'd put that brake assembly and rim on the dealer. They didn't properly adjust it and ruined it and the rim. If it got that hot, I'd want the drum, bearings and seal replaced. The spindle should be inspected for heat damage as well.


Earl
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:48 PM   #3
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Another note, drum brakes get more aggressive as they heat up. So you will definitely feel a difference in braking between cold, warm and hot brakes. But over heated brakes fade. Nature of the beast. They also don't brake for crap after driving through deep water till the water gets out and they warm back up. Drum brakes just suck in general.


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Old 10-19-2017, 08:48 PM   #4
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Damn Klassic, that stinks! I’ve been lucky with my brake replacement. They seem to be doing ok. I had to go through a break in period too for a little while but my brakes are okay now. Not great but okay. Still think discs are in my future. Maybe they’re in yours too


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Old 10-19-2017, 09:12 PM   #5
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Earl... I don’t know if your Eagle has the same brake or not but the NorthPoint has FRONTWARDS self adjusting brakes. So they are suppose to self click the wheel when the shoes start to wear and stay in adjustment. Do you know anything about those?
So in theory (my theory) they wouldn’t even have to be adjusted at install, and they should eventually adjust themselves. No?
AND, my thought, if the one “adjusted too tight” was too tight, wouldn’t it soon wear down, be in adjustment, and not over heat.
They said it needs a new backing plate AND drum, I would hope they would put in new seals and bearing. As it was all brand new 500 miles ago.
They never said anything about the spindle. I assume if it was a problem they would have tried to sting me with that too, as they didn’t realize at the time of inspection that these were just put on by them 500miles ago.

Any thoughts on that?

Also, I know they need to be “broken in”, but every time I take it out for the first 15 minutes I have zero trailer brakes.
If some one pulls out in front of me in that time frame....I’m going through them.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom View Post
Damn Klassic, that stinks! I’ve been lucky with my brake replacement. They seem to be doing ok. I had to go through a break in period too for a little while but my brakes are okay now. Not great but okay. Still think discs are in my future. Maybe they’re in yours too


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That’s what I’m thinking too.
I don’t think I’m going to have this rig for much longer though.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klassic View Post
Earl... I don’t know if your Eagle has the same brake or not but the NorthPoint has FRONTWARDS self adjusting brakes. So they are suppose to self click the wheel when the shoes start to wear and stay in adjustment. Do you know anything about those?
So in theory (my theory) they wouldn’t even have to be adjusted at install, and they should eventually adjust themselves. No?
AND, my thought, if the one “adjusted too tight” was too tight, wouldn’t it soon wear down, be in adjustment, and not over heat.
They said it needs a new backing plate AND drum, I would hope they would put in new seals and bearing. As it was all brand new 500 miles ago.
They never said anything about the spindle. I assume if it was a problem they would have tried to sting me with that too, as they didn’t realize at the time of inspection that these were just put on by them 500miles ago.

Any thoughts on that?

Also, I know they need to be “broken in”, but every time I take it out for the first 15 minutes I have zero trailer brakes.
If some one pulls out in front of me in that time frame....I’m going through them.
Self adjusting brakes need to be adjusted when installed. If too loose, they will not self adjust. All drum brakes are that way. Normally electric brake assemblies come with the adjuster backed all the way off.

You can warm your brakes up for a mile or so with the manual brake lever.

Maybe the shoes hung up and caused the over heating. Them saying it needs a baking plate doesn't give any info. What was their diagnosis of what happen?

Yes in 500 miles a tight brake would wear down. But if it was extremely tight it would of caused damage early on. If it was always hot during that 500 miles I would suspect the shoes where hanging up. But that should of ruined the brake shoes but they are only asking for a backing plate. Or do you mean a brake assembly when you say backing plate.


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Old 10-19-2017, 09:49 PM   #8
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Klassic & Mopar Earl
Yup delievery smoked mine and melted the rim to the lugs, u know that was hot.
So everything was replaced including rim an tire. Worked good first trip up to NY than in return no good. Rig is up at service center and I told them brakes bad fix them. See what happens.
Here is my theory. My volts and amps r good. Brakes run to hot and do not stop why. Bet two reasons.
1 These self adjusting brakes stink (trying to be forum correct). If the drum is just a little out of round they stay to tight and overheat.


2. Overheated brakes melt cheap junk seals now grease on brakes so no stopping power but they still run hot warping drum more and adjusting tighter and getting hotter. Still bad brakes from being greased.
Here is the cure if you do not have money for disc conversion.

3 Replace brakes with NON SELF ADJUSTING ONES. Turn drums and get Good double lip seals. All the problems here started with self adjusting brakes. In the past the ones who had problems over greased or did it wrong, had junk seals
and never adjusted them. I would much rather jack trailer twice year spin and grease and adjust
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:49 PM   #9
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Klassic, I like your theory. One positive I can say I don't have any brake issues at all. I run my brake controller at 6 and no higher, or the trailer is doing too much of the stopping. I was keeping an eye on them the 1360 miles miles home after reading all the prior posts here. The rims were warm at times but didn't notice any overheating. Checked all drums and no evidence of leakage of any kind after arriving home. I stopped in NC overnight and all looked good. I did have two tires (rainer, had to see for myself) with sidewall bubbling in the morning after arriving though. So I guess 1 out of 2 problems ain't bad.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:57 PM   #10
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They r doing my outriggers and pulling slide to replace bent roller. Also engineering is looking into why I have a tire rubbing on my slide. First one they got in to look at but was told they were discussing a possible recall because others r reporting same problem. Two others here with the FBTS also have a rub but most do not. Plenty of clearance on right side. Bet axle spring mount holders are welded incorrect on some axles moving them to the left. Everything else is straight.
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