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Old 08-25-2020, 02:40 PM   #1
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How big an issue is the nose high condition?

Hi all,
Brand new to owning a 5th wheel. Had a Jayco Jayflight for years before it was stolen a few months ago. We picked up this 2018 Eagle HT 28.5 RSTS. Absolutely love it. It tows very well compared to our previous tow behind. In order to get 6 in bed clearance I have the hitch raised up a couple clicks. It's 3.5 in higher in front. It has adjustable suspension so I can adjust it if needed. What is the general opinion? Will I be putting significant stress on the rear axle? How much height will I gain by adjusting the spring mounts?
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Old 08-25-2020, 03:40 PM   #2
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My understanding is you want the trailers axles to be level, or slightly nose forward, not rearward.

Someone with more knowledge on the subject may jump in.

And welcome to the site!
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Old 08-25-2020, 03:49 PM   #3
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Congrats on the new rig!!

I believe guys with the HT series are going to the 16" wheels and putting the springs in the lower mounting holes on the taller trucks. Someone will comment I'm sure.
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Old 08-25-2020, 09:06 PM   #4
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I would recommend moving the springs to the lower holes which will help. If you do not have “wet bolts” and bronze bushings, adding those at the same time saves cost.

I run about 5 inches of bed clearance and the trailer is still about a half degree nose high.
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Old 08-25-2020, 10:12 PM   #5
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Thank you for the info. We go out to the desert sometimes to ride dirt bikes so we'll be running on dirt paths. For that reason I thought that I should have the 6 inches of bed clearance. I'll move the springs as soon as I get a chance. Is etrailer the best place to get the wet bolt kit?
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Old 08-26-2020, 09:28 AM   #6
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I have purchased a lot of items from etrailer, can’t remember if I got the wet bolt kit there or some other online source.

I would definitely do the wet bolt kit if you are going off-road. The difference in the shackles is amazing.

I also did one hanger brace (at the center hanger) to further stabilize the frame: https://www.amazon.com/MORryde-UO21-.../dp/B007HRXZT2
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Old 08-26-2020, 04:56 PM   #7
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Great information! I knew about the wet bolt kit, but I had never heard of the brace before. We plan on keeping this trailer for a long time so I will probably invest in that as well. Thank you.
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Old 08-26-2020, 08:49 PM   #8
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We have the 16” tires and the springs in the lower holes. We tow with a 2017 F250. Attached is a picture of our set up.
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Old 08-26-2020, 09:29 PM   #9
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Perfectly level. Nice set up.
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Old 09-05-2020, 07:29 AM   #10
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We ordered our rig with the 16 inch goodyears, but had to have the dealer move the leafsprings to the lower hole. Had a 2018 F250 and it was still a little high. Upgraded to the 2020 F250 this year now we are level. The 2020 is over an inch lower then the 2018.
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Old 09-05-2020, 08:55 AM   #11
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Obviously level is best, a little nose high is better than low. Going with 16's and/or adjusting the springs to get it level leaves another potential issue. Height clearance. OP probably won't have an issue because it appears in the posted pic there is no front A/C unit. Depending on the boondocking area, low tree limbs can become an issue. Even travelling down the roads, tree limbs become an issue. I had a similar issue with trailer to bedrail clearance and had to make adjustments in my hitch. I took before and after measurements and found I'm still pretty close to level, just a very slight nose high, but my total height is sitting right at 13'-3" which I hink is the max legal height and instill have issues going down roads with low hanging tree limbs. DW is constantly on the lookout to make sure we dont turn an A/C unit into a skylight.
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Old 09-05-2020, 10:29 PM   #12
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Max height is 13’6”. When I adjusted my Curt A25 hitch to the max height bolt hole spacing to get my (barely) 6” rail clearance, the rig and truck sat perfectly level. But my height is now 13’7”. So you bet I check my bridge heights with multiple sources.

FYI interstate bridge height minimum is 14’6” with allowances made for repaving. Exceptions can be allowed if filed with the DOD. State roads, including those listed in a “trucker’s atlas” can be all over the place.

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Old 09-08-2020, 02:38 PM   #13
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Ours is really nose high as well. Not sure what I can do since the springs are already in the lower holes and I added 16" Goodyears. I DO NOT want to raise the FW and have the steps too high, tree limb issues, etc. From memory, it's around 8" higher in the front than rear. I'm trusting the E rated Goodyears since they are rated at much more weight than the original 15" Chinabombs. I could go up one hole in the pin box and still have decent bed rail clearance.


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Old 09-08-2020, 02:51 PM   #14
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Hi SeventyGTX,
Do you run a TMPS on the trailer? If so are you seeing any temperature difference between the front and rear tires? We were out a local campground this weekend. It was the first trip with the TPMS. It was only about 40 miles from our house, but I didn't see any temp difference between the front and rear axles.
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Old 09-08-2020, 02:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riddleswest View Post
Hi SeventyGTX,
Do you run a TMPS on the trailer? If so are you seeing any temperature difference between the front and rear tires? We were out a local campground this weekend. It was the first trip with the TPMS. It was only about 40 miles from our house, but I didn't see any temp difference between the front and rear axles.
No, I don't have them. But that's good to know your temps aren't any higher in the rear. I run them at 72 lbs each which should put them near 80 at highway speeds.
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Old 09-09-2020, 12:26 PM   #16
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riding level

Really important to be as level as possible so you have equal load on each axle, otherwise you run the risk of overloading one of the axles.
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Old 09-09-2020, 12:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeventyGTX View Post
No, I don't have them. But that's good to know your temps aren't any higher in the rear. I run them at 72 lbs each which should put them near 80 at highway speeds.
I had a camping friend tell me he used to do that on his rig. He experienced a blow out and this is an excerpt from the email he received from the tire manufacturer when he entered a warranty claim.

Note that I’m not saying it’s right one way of the other.
Your post just brought it to mind....rang a bell so to speak.

“Tires should be checked with a good quality tire gauge at ambient standing temperatures, what is generally referred to as “cold”. Under inflating tires to try and match the ideal PSI when hot, can cause excessive heat and premature tire failure. A tire will tolerate higher pressures with a greater margin of safety as opposed to one that is under inflated.”
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Old 09-09-2020, 12:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by icr21801 View Post
I had a camping friend tell me he used to do that on his rig. He experienced a blow out and this is an excerpt from the email he received from the tire manufacturer when he entered a warranty claim.

Note that I’m not saying it’s right one way of the other.
Your post just brought it to mind....rang a bell so to speak.

“Tires should be checked with a good quality tire gauge at ambient standing temperatures, what is generally referred to as “cold”. Under inflating tires to try and match the ideal PSI when hot, can cause excessive heat and premature tire failure. A tire will tolerate higher pressures with a greater margin of safety as opposed to one that is under inflated.”
My guess is he had cheap Chinabombs for tires. Just a guess. I would be extremely shocked if the oversized Goodyear Endurance tires on mine ever blow out unless some kind of road hazard. The way I look at is if it ever does and tears up the RV, that's what insurance is for.
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:20 PM   #19
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My 2008 Eagle 30.5 BHS was about 6" high in the front. I "flipped" the axles (moved the axles below the springs) and it is level now. I don't feel any difference towing it after the change, it is still very stable. It is also nice that it doesn't drag the rear end when I go through a driveway. I purchased the kit from etrailer. It was a bit of work but as a former mechanic I had the tools to do it myself.


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Old 09-09-2020, 08:33 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by SeventyGTX View Post
Ours is really nose high as well. Not sure what I can do since the springs are already in the lower holes and I added 16" Goodyears. I DO NOT want to raise the FW and have the steps too high, tree limb issues, etc. From memory, it's around 8" higher in the front than rear. I'm trusting the E rated Goodyears since they are rated at much more weight than the original 15" Chinabombs. I could go up one hole in the pin box and still have decent bed rail clearance.


SeventyGTX, wow, you really are quite nose high. My 2017 27.5RKDS coupled to a 2015 Silverado short bed was nose high but not that much ... and I had the 15" Endurance tires. Perhaps you should think about raising the pin box or lowering the hitch.

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