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Old 12-02-2014, 02:03 PM   #11
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Yakima
Posts: 37
Very "Hot Idea indeed" - Just my two cents though it was not asked for. RVs are very air tight. You should NOT use a wood stove in a Mobile Home, Travel Trailer or RV.. In most areas its not even legal! Now that being said, either make sure you have open ventilation coming into your cabin all times that the stove is lit, or get a wood burner with an Outside Combustion Air supply vent. Otherwise you can seriously suffocate yourself. Especially wen ice and snow freeze all over your trailer and seals it up better than duct tape. This is the primary reason it's not legal in most states. It's not as much CO poisoning but CO2 Poisoning as the fire consumes all of your breathing air. It also wont burn efficiently in that state then risking CO and other inefficiency problems.

Best of wishes for your project! Please post pics when you are dun!

The Kimberly is Awesome! But you are limited to pretty small uniform wood chunks. I would suspect you would have to tend it several times a night. The larger square box takes more room but you can burn about anything you want. And the additional steel will enhance the through of radiant heat. - I heat a very small work shop with a very small cast iron stove, it eats all my wood scraps. It works better than the small tin one i had in it before. I could never get it hot enough because it would glow red. The cast can take it all day so i can run it hotter and more efficiently. I crack the door for fresh air. And you can feel how much it pulls through the intake. I learned the hard way after i got so dizzy i almost passed out.

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Old 12-02-2014, 02:20 PM   #12
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Not a great idea for the masses. To have proper draw and combustion air a vent or window will hAve to be open which may negate a lot of your heat.
Caution is the word of the day.

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Old 12-02-2014, 03:10 PM   #13
Join Date: Nov 2014
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Originally Posted by norty1 View Post
Not a great idea for the masses. To have proper draw and combustion air a vent or window will hAve to be open which may negate a lot of your heat.
Caution is the word of the day.
For the "Masses" agree - basic cave man smarts have long been lost. But keep in mind that forced air and indirect vent heating appliances have only been around maybe 75 years? But no doubt more than one cave man died in his sleep from asphyxiation because his cave was too sealed up! LOL...

All pellet stoves to my knowledge use an air intake around the exhaust pipe. This helps with efficiency as the waste heat warms the cold intake air. There are a few wood stoves that also use this, some of which require electricity to operate, but not all of them. I have my garage door open 1" with it -10 outside and its 75 inside with the unsealed old cast iron wood stove just puttering away. Sure it could be more efficient, but the woods all but free and it works. My shop is 350 Sqft and the ceiling is not insulated. Keep a window open near the fireplace. It wont be dragging cold air into a bedroom or something, And you will be fine. Or get an indirect air intake stove with outside intake... I might be using the wrong terminology but a good stove shop knows..

one more alternative you could look at is a Wood Furnace - its and outside unit that pipes the heat inside your house. Might be WAY overkill for your little trailer but they are extremely efficient and safer from a fire and gas standpoint.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:34 PM   #14
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Make sure whatever you get draws its combustion air from outside, otherwise it'll either deplete your air or suck cold air from around door and windows, more likely the first one. My pellet stove at home draws from outside, so we get no influx of cold Montana air when trying to warm up.

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