Interior Door jam / trim removal

[nylyon]

While sitting in the campground this past weekend, I began to wonder how I was going to wire two items I am looking to do. First is to add the automatic awning retract system so the awning retracts when it gets windy and second is LED lighting under the awning.

I have measured and the current awning wiring enters the RV precisely at the bedroom door jam. I am thinking that if I could remove the jam:



I could run the wires cleanly from the outside in through the ceiling and to the control panel with the rest of the wires, but first, removing the door moulding without damaging it.... thoughts?

[DMRGMC]

I just had to repair a cabinet door that was pushed open by the contents of the cabinet and the handle caught the slide when moving it out. It broke the stile on the outside edge. Seemed like an easy repair, I do lots of cabinet and furniture making, glued and stained, not noticeable. I noticed that the trim on the slide was moved as well.
I'm getting to the part that might help you. The trim was applied with air driven staples and 3 dabs of some type of caulking adhesive that peeled the mdf on the back side. My experience with staples is that you cause damage trying to remove them from the exposed surface and the trim is likely mdf with a vynil cover. So, I would pry the trim off carefully and cut off the staples on the back side, don't push them back out. Reset the trim with finishing nails or air nailed brads and fill the holes with a furniture crayon of the closest colour. When prying off the trim use a thin blade, drywall knife, butter knife and then a small flat bar with protection between the trim and the wall covering. I like to use 1/4" plywood or a plastic wedge to make sure the flat bar doesn't compress the wall material. That goes for the casing and the jamb. If the jamb top and sides are nailed together try to prevent chipping. These staples are a pain in the butt to remove. Might be easier to keep them joined for reinstallation. Fill yer boots!