Is there a physical slide stop?

[Wrascal]

Last Xmas - for the third time ever, my door side slide wouldn't extend; with each of the two previous failures (after a bit of time) it self healed.

Well this time it didn't heal so today (as it hit 80*) I crawled underneath and exposed the motor/ gear box (gear box may not be correct description) but it's what I'll call it.

When the other half depressed the extend switch the motor ran and I could see the "external drive nut" vibrating, but not turning. I put a 16mm wrench on it (it was quite tight) and SHAZAMM! that manual drive nut broke free; now the slide once again operates normally.

I'm wondering if I'm running the slide in too far? I run it unit I hear the free running ratchet sound before I quit. Is there a slide stop somewhere to prevent me from bringing it in this tight?

Today I also looked in to why my (unused) streetside /outside shower has leaked for many years. The (hidden inside) "inner plumbing" line was split. 3-4 stops in town could not get me the the correct replacement faucet (one with a 90 degree bend on the top "water exit" side).

I should have went to my best resource, Amazon. They had precisely one, < $22; it will be here Wed. morning.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Wrascal

I'm wondering if I'm running the slide in too far? I run it unit I hear the free running ratchet sound before I quit. Is there a slide stop somewhere to prevent me from bringing it in this tight?

The cup on the threaded rod is the adjustable stop.

[Wrascal]

As I have no idea of what (cup) you just offered - please elaborate.
Pics would be even better / best is you come here and show me (Grin), free cold beverage awaits.

Another day in the 80's, almost time to go camping; unfortunately we also have to (currently) contend with pollen.

[Grumpy]

If you have a LCI slide, on the left side, is an 6-8" metal cup (flared on one end) on a round rod that is visible with the slide open.. That is the stop adjustment. Sorry no way to do pics.

[Wrascal]

Curiosity got me this morning so I took a peek.

On the side opposite the motor I observed "a cup". I also noted it'd need a mighty large wrench and some PB Blaster if I'm gonna move it.

Am I correct in assuming that if I move the cup towards the frame it'd bump (stop) the slide from retracting a bit earlier? Would moving it a 1/4 inch be good starting point?

[Rustic Eagle]

The following Lippert through-the-frame electric slide Manual may be helpful:

Refer to page 15: https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...Out-Manual.pdf

Bob

[Wrascal]

This was copied/ pasted from that above reference:

3.Loosen the 3/4" nut (Fig. 19A) on the outside of the stop can using a 1 1/8" wrench.

Normally I would use a 3/4" wrench on a 3/4" nut. And it doesn't offer advice as to which direction I should run the can.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Wrascal

This was copied/ pasted from that above reference:

3.Loosen the 3/4" nut (Fig. 19A) on the outside of the stop can using a 1 1/8" wrench.

Normally I would use a 3/4" wrench on a 3/4" nut. And it doesn't offer advice as to which direction I should run the can.

Towards the frame, that will stop it a little earlier. I would look at it with the slide closed to see where it is first.

[2lane]

You might check this thread if your slide closed position is correct and doesn't need adjustment.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tml#post532251

Since the thread I've cleaned and lubed the slide, had the slide motor tested, disassembled, cleaned and lubed the gearbox and removed a patch of 14 gauge wire from the extend side. It works much better now.

[Wrascal]

Yesterday I blasted it all (can, nuts, screw, etc) with PB Blaster.

This morning, using a 14" long 1 1/8" wrench, I loosened the nut jammed up against the can and was then able to hand turn it (no tools required). Sure enough it did what it was supposed to do - it stopped the slide from retracting as deep as before (maybe a 1/4 inch short of flush), but the thing was again over-tight and required me to manually turn the manual knob to break it free.

I reset it back to original and it again works, in/out with no problems; unfortunately I have no confidence that it'll always work. My answer - carry the necessary wrench and screwdriver (just in case), and hope for the best.

I'll also stop retracting it just as soon as I see it start to lift, rather than running it until it ratchets.

Got the new outside shower faucet in with minimal swearing.

Went to unhitch the TV from the 5th and the truck wouldn't start - weak/dead batteries. It's been sitting up for about 2 months so not surprised. Almost 9 hours to recharge the both of them (2-10-50 options on charger; the 50 is limited to short periods - used primarily to start a car engine). It's now on overnight trickle charge and I will check start/ no start in the morning.

[Grumpy]

Could it be a weak motor? Word is LCI has good customer service, give them a call.

[Wrascal]

Thank you all. Short of a complete failure ...

my solution will simple be (in the event of intermittent failures) to turn it with a wrench and then reach for a beer (for a job well done).

[Skidawg]

Wrascal, have to admire your melancholy outlook and award system !! happy camping. ROLL TIDE ROLL !!!! Skidwag

[Wrascal]

Skid, you had a 50-50 chance - and you blew it; no beer for you.

War Eagle!