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Old 07-07-2021, 04:00 PM   #1
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Jacking the Frame

Ok, I know there have been numerous posts on this topic.

1. Has anyone just left there big FW connected to truck. Than placed hyd Jack under frame by rear stabilizer Jack and than jacked one side until those wheels were off the ground letting the suspension hang?

2. Or left connected to truck and jacked each side a little at a time (blocking and going side to side)by rear stabilizer jacks until entire FW was up with all suspension hanging?

3. My concern is which is better for the FW hitch and will it angle enough if only one side is done to let wheels hang.

4. On some posts some have said if u Jack entire FW up by frame the suspension might flip the shackles.

Trying to find the best options. Be nice to lift the entire FW, rotate all tires, adjust brakes (I installed non self adjustable), grease all wet bolts, inspect suspension system all at one time.
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Old 07-07-2021, 04:27 PM   #2
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Just had our Eagle up twice this spring... First time for disc brake conversion second replace springs... I used blocking and 4 jack stands. Two 6 ton up front two 4 ton out back Front where just behind the front jacks. Rears where behind rear jacks. No truck connected. I used the one control jacks to get each side just off the floor in shed. Front then back little at a time. Then quick with the jack stands and wood blocking.
Took pressure off the one control but left extended. I used floor jacks to hold axles up slightly when RR the springs. Trailer was rock solid on the stands.
I have previously squirted lube into the front jacks.
The axles flopped as usual with the old springs. New springs stayed put better. Old springs 4 leaf 3000 lb New springs 3500 lb 6 leaf. Same eye to eye measurement.
I think the flop happens when you remove the tire rim on one axle the other pivots the centre cre3000 and it flops over

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Old 07-07-2021, 05:06 PM   #3
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There are a lot of posts like your. That is why I asked a different question on jacking. Leaving hooked to truck on a heavy 41 ft FW want to have the twist of the hitch question answered. I would like to get it off the ground easily, quickly with one 20 ton hyd Jack and two 15k Jack stands.
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Old 07-07-2021, 05:17 PM   #4
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It should work only issue I see is you are pulling down on the kingpin some amount when you lift the trailer. No different than changing a tire on side of road but for the tire you likely are not lifting as high. Given the posts on side wall cracks...
Your hitch has to pivot side to side anyway.
I would watch bedrail distance to trailer on low side and how much you are lifting rear suspension on truck.

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Old 07-07-2021, 05:29 PM   #5
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I am sure it will work and watching bed rail clearance was a good tip. Just wondering how many people have done this. I have seen posts with some using rear stabilizer jacks to lift FW off ground while hooked to truck. No way would I do that since the Jack screw just goes thru a nut. That was a PP design with an easy factory fix.
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Old 07-07-2021, 07:50 PM   #6
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I’ve had tire/wheel off one at a time using an Anderson Rapid Jack (needed 2x4’s to gain some height). I’ve also had all 4 off the ground. Front was supported by the landing gear and I lifted the back with a 20T bottle jack. The jack didn’t have enough length to reach the frame so I built 2x4 towers with the jack on top. Another tower had a heavy duty jack stand.

You don’t have to raise it enough to lift the tires clear of the ground. Lift enough to ease the weight and lift the axle end and remove the tire/wheel. Lower and let the axle hang from the spring. Used this technique twice, first for wet bolt install, second was bearing service.
Was very stable.

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Old 07-07-2021, 08:51 PM   #7
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I understand all that about jacking. I am retired Airframe Powerplant mech and have jacked numerous Aircraft. I want to see if anyone has done it the way I want to do it and have encountered any problems. I Would never put all that weight on my front landing gear on a 41 ft FW. Do u know how that LG Jack screw is held by a threaded nut that has a high failure rate. That is why Jayco went Hyd just like going to slimrack.
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Old 07-07-2021, 09:08 PM   #8
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I’ve done similar. I’ve left it connected to the truck and put pads and blocks under the rear jacks, then lifted to the max of the jacks so I could put boards underneath the wheels. It wasn’t for service. It was to pull out of a soft site where even in 4wd the truck didn’t have enough purchase to just pull through. It was able to lift enough to put a 2x10 under each pair of wheels. I’d have to measure to the rear jacks on the RV, but with a short box and the hitch in the rear position the lift wasn’t a concern as far as the truck measurements were concerned. The jacks do both come down at once, so I can’t say how clearance would be if you did one side at a time.
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:57 AM   #9
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I understand all that about jacking. I am retired Airframe Powerplant mech and have jacked numerous Aircraft. I want to see if anyone has done it the way I want to do it and have encountered any problems. I Would never put all that weight on my front landing gear on a 41 ft FW. Do u know how that LG Jack screw is held by a threaded nut that has a high failure rate. That is why Jayco went Hyd just like going to slimrack.
I jack close behind the axles to avoid adding significant weight to the LG. Our 5th is a bit shorter (39’) and probably lighter (13k). I also put a 2x4 on top of the jack and stand to spread the load.
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Old 07-08-2021, 11:41 AM   #10
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RedHorse1,
I would do the same just behind rear stab with truck connected. Still waiting to see if anyone has done just one side like that to get that side suspension to hang.
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Old 07-08-2021, 06:53 PM   #11
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Rock,
Just a thought, when unhooked from TV and you level the 5er I would estimate more than half the weight is on the front jacks??? CG is forward of mid point otherwise it would fall on its butt.

Also, if I understand what you are trying to do, jack one side near the back jack point to raise one side off the ground. Wouldn't that potentially introduce a torsional/twisting load one the frame? I don't believe that would be a good idea. Just a thought.
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:32 PM   #12
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I've done it both ways. I have a 43' NP and have had a flat on the side of the road. The flat was on the rear passenger side. I used a Traileraide to pull the front tire on to remove the rear flat. It was fine to get the flat off, but I had to jack at the frame with my 12 ton bottle jack to get the rear axle high enough to put the "new" tire on. I didn't have any problems.

I've also jacked at the frame without being connected to the TV to do the disk brake conversion. We removed a single tire at a time with out issue using the same jack and cribbing.

I've also replace the tires on the 5er 2 at a time on each side while not being connected to the TV and again using the wood blocks as cribbing to support the rig.

I (kiss of death) haven't had a problem with the front/rear jacks in regards to any of these processes.

I did have the front driver's side jack fail due to something bouncing up & hitting the "brain" of the leveling system in the basement. That was repaired long ago and I've enclosed it in a tuperware container to prevent further damage.

Not sure if I answered your question(s), but I hope I helped at least a little!
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Old 07-08-2021, 08:50 PM   #13
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Guys,
Thanks for the last two posts. Yup the twisting issue doing one side I have thought about. So to be safe after my next big summer trip I am gonna do this. Leave hooked to truck and Jack each side a few inches at a time by back stab jacks. Put on Jack stand. Than do other side. Just go back and forth until both axles are hanging. This way I can just spend a few days and do all my maintenance and inspections. Leaving it hooked to TV I will know it will not move and front cannot drop, I will also wood block back along with my heavy duty stands for a back up.
As of now I will not get under my FW while LG is down without jackstands under front just incase that stupid threaded Jack strut nut fails. I also place a class 5 bolt thru the hole just under the LG pin that extends the leg. Several toy hauler folks on this site have had pin failures and dropped front down.
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Old 07-14-2021, 05:21 PM   #14
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A tire company jacked up my trailer at the frame to change tires. It damaged the slide system and nearly fell out in the driveway. $1,600 repair.
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Old 07-14-2021, 06:09 PM   #15
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How did the tire company Jack it to do that? Changing just tires I always use a small hyd Jack right under leaf spring as close to axle as I can.
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Old 07-14-2021, 07:12 PM   #16
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I would be concerned with the frame being able to support the entire weight of the trailer from front fifth wheel pin all the way back to the rear. Note FW wheels are not providing any weight support.

I witnessed the jacking of a travel trailer by use of the front jack (similar weight distribution point to the FW pin) to replace a tire and it bent the frame at the slide.

I always used a jack with an axle perch to place under the axle out close as possible to wheel to jack up an axle. Yes, have to do this each wheel/side.
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Old 07-14-2021, 08:38 PM   #17
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How did the tire company Jack it to do that? Changing just tires I always use a small hyd Jack right under leaf spring as close to axle as I can.
The manual says not to raise it from the axle, but from the frame. After the damage to the slide, I asked a mechanic at the dealership, he said one wheel at a time, axle as close to the wheel.
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Old 07-15-2021, 07:30 AM   #18
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The reason they say axle is that someone would put a bottle Jack under the axle on a heavy trailer and dent it in. Jacking from the leaf spring at axle would be like having ur tire on a big floor Jack and raising it up. Simplist way to change a tire. U better know where and how to frame Jack. A lot of people lv hooked to truck and lift FW off ground by rear jacks. That is an electric Jack failure waiting to happen with the jackscrew nut.
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