Jayco 27.5 RLTS Sanitizing fresh water?

[bogadel]

I have had my Jayco almost 2 years and never sanitized the fresh water tank. Now I'm thinking this would be a good time to do it, but unlike all my other RV's, fifth wheels and TT's, they all had the seperate fill on side of RV, for fresh water. Just dump the chlorine into the opening and fill with water. Simple right?

Now I've got the 27.5 RLTS and not a clue how to add chlorine into the system. I'm hoping someone with a rig like mine can clue me in. We never drink the water from this tank but use it on the road for bathroom breaks and in an emergency we have water. So, back to my problem: How do I put the chlorine into the system?

Hoping someone can steer me in the right direction. Thanks

[RogerR]

If all else fails empty a few feet of the hose you use to fill the tank, pour in whatever you think is the correct amount bleach, screw it to the RV, turn on the water.

Run until the tank is full and the lines all are full. Wait a while, drain, rinse and off to camping!

Lots of opinions on amount of bleach, time to soak, etc.

[RoadrunnerII]

Mix up bleach solution in a pail and you use the pump on trailer to syphon it into the fresh water tank. I set the pail up in the basement. Not on ground. Too much lift required. You might want to make up a short clear hose to do this with a garden hose connection on one end. Once chlorine solution is in tank You connect fresh water hose from your house tap to the normal fresh water hose connection and set your valves for power fill the fresh tank. Least thats how our Eagle is setup. Then connect to normal city water on your house and fill tank. Then run your trailer taps to get solution in all the lines. Leave it in tank and lines at least a couple hours or overnight if you want. Then dump the lines and tank. Then power fill from house tap again with city water. Drain again. It sanitized. If it still too chlorine smelling rinse again

RoadrunnerII

[Jagiven]

Follow the winterizing techniques to pull the chlorinated water from a pitcher.

My understand on those camand stations. Flip over the rubber hose washer that has the screen in it. When you reinstall, it will push open the back flow preventer, and the pump can draw water up a short hose.

[GHen]

We have a 2017 291rsts. Should be the same. You should have a 3’ clear hose that attaches to to water fill connection. Mix your chlorine in a bucket or water can, put the hose in the bucket, set the valves for sanitize/winterize and turn the pump on. That puts it in the plumbing. Change the valves for power fill ( I think) and turn the pump on and it sucks the water out of your bucket to the tank.

[Mopar_Earl]

Much easier and faster to out it in the water hose. Just have your tank fill valves in position before turning on the water. I only did the suction hose deal twice before learning it's just too much hassle. Much easier and faster to pour it in the hose. I also treat my water everytime I fill the tank or top it off.


Earl

[bogadel]

One thing that really bugs me is the picture and description in the Jayco manual does not look anything like the Uni-Dock Utility Center that I have. Mine has ONE Valve that goes to TANK FILL and switches to CITY fill. ROADRUNNER mentions being able to fill a bucket and pump from the bucket to fill but that would go into the lines to faucets but I'm not sure it would go to the water tank. As far as the WATER PUMP goes, it is under the sink ENCLOSED in a box with no hose connection to siphon chlorine bleach or for that matter to winterize the trailer, (don't need to do that here in Fl). But there again if I had to do that I guess Roadrunners idea would work for that.

Still seems like there is something missing with this Dock system. The old method of having a fresh water inlet on the side of the trailer where you just pour in bleach to sanitize the tank was so much easier.

The hose idea is doable but really doesn't seem like a great idea, when you need enough chlorine for 48 gallon tank.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by bogadel

One thing that really bugs me is the picture and description in the Jayco manual does not look anything like the Uni-Dock Utility Center that I have. Mine has ONE Valve that goes to TANK FILL and switches to CITY fill. ROADRUNNER mentions being able to fill a bucket and pump from the bucket to fill but that would go into the lines to faucets but I'm not sure it would go to the water tank. As far as the WATER PUMP goes, it is under the sink ENCLOSED in a box with no hose connection to siphon chlorine bleach or for that matter to winterize the trailer, (don't need to do that here in Fl). But there again if I had to do that I guess Roadrunners idea would work for that.

Still seems like there is something missing with this Dock system. The old method of having a fresh water inlet on the side of the trailer where you just pour in bleach to sanitize the tank was so much easier.

The hose idea is doable but really doesn't seem like a great idea, when you need enough chlorine for 48 gallon tank.

I treat my 75 gallon tank just fine with pouring it into the hose. How much bleach are you going to use???


Earl

[barryg]

You will want to use the country fill option mentioned in the manual not the winterizing option. You will have to remove the bulkhead panel in the rear of the front storage area to access the valves. There is a selection of valves and turning some on and some off in the right config will get what you want. In our manual it shows pictures and the valve settings to do various things. They are on the right side of the center of the trailer if looking at it from the front. Just a few screws and it comes off in fact I dont even remove the entire panel I just take out about half the screws then I can pull that half back enough to access the valves. At least that is how it is on our few year old 27.5rlts .

Shame on Jayco for making it such a pain in the rear. From what I understand there is a one way valve or pressure valve in the hose connection that prevents you from just dumping stuff down the hose fill port though I have not verified that.
Another option would be get your normal fill hose out and ready to go pour the amount of bleach you want into the end of the hose. Then hook up the hose, then turn on the water and push it in through the normal fill port.

[bogadel]

Originally Posted by barryg

You will want to use the country fill option mentioned in the manual not the winterizing option. You will have to remove the bulkhead panel in the rear of the front storage area to access the valves. There is a selection of valves and turning some on and some off in the right config will get what you want. In our manual it shows pictures and the valve settings to do various things. They are on the right side of the center of the trailer if looking at it from the front. Just a few screws and it comes off in fact I dont even remove the entire panel I just take out about half the screws then I can pull that half back enough to access the valves. At least that is how it is on our few year old 27.5rlts .

Shame on Jayco for making it such a pain in the rear. From what I understand there is a one way valve or pressure valve in the hose connection that prevents you from just dumping stuff down the hose fill port though I have not verified that.
Another option would be get your normal fill hose out and ready to go pour the amount of bleach you want into the end of the hose. Then hook up the hose, then turn on the water and push it in through the normal fill port.

barryg, Thanks for the reply, I had never heard of the Country Fill but I found it in the book. Unfortunately the place you mention behind the bulkhead is the water heater. In the bathroom is a box that the water pump is placed in. When I first got the RV I had a leak under the sink in kitchen. I had to take the whole panel under the sink to get to the back of the water heater to find the leak. So, I know the pump wasn't located there. Which goes back to what you were saying, "Shame on Jayco" for making this such a pain in the butt. The only option that I'm seeing is the hose method and I'm not feeling all warm and fuzzy over it.
The RV is in a storage lot and not at home so I will go check it out again to see if I can verify the pump and whether it has this country fill option. I doubt it but can't say for sure till I check it again. But what a pain this 2017 27.5RLTS is, even to get to the back of the water heater from the storage box, you would need to take the fasteners loose to be able to change the position of the valves for winterizing if needed or to keep the bleach from going into the water heater.
Since you have the 27.5 RLTS also, you may or may not have noticed the lack of insulation in this trailer. Being in Florida let me tell you I am so glad that I ordered the 50 Amp option and the second air conditioner. The salesman wondered why I would want the 50 Amp. Obviously he doesn't camp for one and secondly he doesn't know the product. He tried to tell me that 30 Amp and one A/C is fine, NO it isn't. Best decision I made getting both options, just saying in case someone is thinking of a Jayco like mine in the south.

[GHen]

Bogadel, I also noticed a big difference in insulation. I went rv shopping on a 90 degree day. What I noticed was the units with the ”winter” package were much cooler inside than the ones without it. I’m not sure what it all includes, but I bet it’s easier for the AC to keep up with a hot day if it has the winter package. Slide toppers also help, I’m told.

So, I wonder if winter package rv’s are available in Florida, like they are up north.

Ok, back on topic, when adding sanitizer, I add enough for 50 gallons to a 5 gallon can. I power fill 25 gallons in the tank, then add the sanitizer solution with the suction tube using the pump, then add the last 20 using power fill again. Then draw it through all the faucets. If I use a strong fix, I flush, if it’s weak I just leave it. I use bottle water for drinking anyway.

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by GHen

Bogadel, I also noticed a big difference in insulation. I went rv shopping on a 90 degree day. What I noticed was the units with the ”winter” package were much cooler inside than the ones without it. I’m not sure what it all includes, but I bet it’s easier for the AC to keep up with a hot day if it has the winter package. Slide toppers also help, I’m told.

So, I wonder if winter package rv’s are available in Florida, like they are up north.

Ok, back on topic, when adding sanitizer, I add enough for 50 gallons to a 5 gallon can. I power fill 25 gallons in the tank, then add the sanitizer solution with the suction tube using the pump, then add the last 20 using power fill again. Then draw it through all the faucets. If I use a strong fix, I flush, if it’s weak I just leave it. I use bottle water for drinking anyway.

Yup you got it covered. On the A/C, ours is an eagle 321rsts with dual pane glass. It helps on the cold and heat. On our trailer we shoukd have the second air. It struggles with one air to get below 80*F on a mid to high 80*F day. In the plan to add second A/C. As for the insulation it could be a lot better in the nose cone. In process of fixing that. Furnace and electric fireplace both wirk good on cold. To freezing temps. Below freezing it needs more insulationunder floor in my humble opinion

RoadrunnerII

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by bogadel

Now I've got the 27.5 RLTS and not a clue how to add chlorine into the system. I'm hoping someone with a rig like mine can clue me in. We never drink the water from this tank but use it on the road for bathroom breaks and in an emergency we have water. So, back to my problem: How do I put the chlorine into the system?

Hoping someone can steer me in the right direction. Thanks

Your 27.5 RLTS is probably plumbed like my 27.5 RKDS so, here is the Jayco procedure. In your basement (drivers’ side) is a panel marked “low point drain”. This panel is to your right when you look in the basement and is held to the wall with 2 screws. Remove the screws and panel.

Inside this area is the water pump and plumbing lines. There is a clear hose attached to the plumbing and a valve that will need to be ¼ turned to “pump” the bleach solution into the tank. I put the solution in a gallon jug with water, insert the hose, and turn on the water pump at the docking station switch. The solution will be pumped into the tank provided you turned the mentioned valve.

After pumping the solution, turn off the water pump and turn the valve back to its original position. Hook up you water hose to the city fill connection, turn the blue valve to “tank fill” and fill the water tank. Turn the water pump back on and charge the water lines.

You should be good to go with your sanitizing.

[Jim Smyth]

Empty your hose. Make your solution. 1/4 cup bleach to 15 gallons. Hold hose up about waist height and then grab the other end and pour your solution in the hose. Connect to trailer and then to spigot. Fill tank till overflowing and shut off. Go inside trailer and turn on pump and run water through hot and cold faucets till you smell bleach. Also I bypass the water heater before doing this. Then let it sit a half day or so. Drain tank and refill with clean water till overflowing again. Run clean water through each hot and cold faucet till no more bleach smell. Drain tank and reverse water heater bypass. Now your done.

[vegasguy]

Originally Posted by Jim Smyth

Empty your hose. Make your solution. 1/4 cup bleach to 15 gallons. Hold hose up about waist height and then grab the other end and pour your solution in the hose. Connect to trailer and then to spigot. Fill tank till overflowing and shut off. Go inside trailer and turn on pump and run water through hot and cold faucets till you smell bleach. Also I bypass the water heater before doing this. Then let it sit a half day or so. Drain tank and refill with clean water till overflowing again. Run clean water through each hot and cold faucet till no more bleach smell. Drain tank and reverse water heater bypass. Now your done.

I think some people are over thinking this. This is basically what i do too. Can't remember the exact amount i used but dumping 1/2 cup to 1 cup of bleach into a garden hose is very easy. Whatever ratio you use it is not a ton of bleach. I think others are thinking large amounts are needed.

[bogadel]

Originally Posted by triplebvalp

Your 27.5 RLTS is probably plumbed like my 27.5 RKDS so, here is the Jayco procedure. In your basement (drivers’ side) is a panel marked “low point drain”. This panel is to your right when you look in the basement and is held to the wall with 2 screws. Remove the screws and panel.

Inside this area is the water pump and plumbing lines. There is a clear hose attached to the plumbing and a valve that will need to be ¼ turned to “pump” the bleach solution into the tank. I put the solution in a gallon jug with water, insert the hose, and turn on the water pump at the docking station switch. The solution will be pumped into the tank provided you turned the mentioned valve.

After pumping the solution, turn off the water pump and turn the valve back to its original position. Hook up you water hose to the city fill connection, turn the blue valve to “tank fill” and fill the water tank. Turn the water pump back on and charge the water lines.

You should be good to go with your sanitizing.

Thanks for the info and I went down to the RV and took off the panel marked low point drain and found exactly what you said. I did not know the pump and the clear hose was in this area. I was thinking the pump was in the bathroom in an enclosed box on the floor. Still don't know what's in the box. But answer to my original post is this panel hides the pump and two valves so I can add a chlorine/bleach solution through the pump or as many said through the hose. It was something that I had not thought of and I don't know why it just came to my mind about the sanitizing. I might have seen an article on winterizing and since I don't have to do that here in Florida, the sanitizing came to mind.
Thanks to all that wrote in and helped me understand this but it should not have been this difficult to find, as the dealer should have pointed this area out to me at delivery. Now I can finally get my fresh tank sanitized. Not sure if I should allow the bleach to go into the hot water tank or not? Since it's been 2 years maybe it should get a shot also?

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by bogadel

Not sure if I should allow the bleach to go into the hot water tank or not? Since it's been 2 years maybe it should get a shot also?

For what it's worth, I do not bypass my hot eater heater when I sanitize.

[Mobile42]

So this is what I use for Sanitizing a 60 Gallon fresh water tank>1 1/2 cup of bleach to 5 gallons of water. Add bleach mixture into water tank and top off tank. Run the water through all lines (hot & cold) for 1 - 2 min till you smell chlorine. Top off fresh water tank again and let stand overnight (or at least 4 hr minimum). Drain and fill again a few more times till no longer have a scent of chlorine from a tap. Another recipe is 4 gal of solution (water plus 2 cups bleach)

[davolson]

We wont be using our trailer until Fall. I have drained the tanks and low point drains and want to sanitize before letting it sit for much of the summer. Would you put the bleach mixture in tanks, and lines and LEAVE it, or just sanitize it and then just drain all the low points, and repeat in the fall before we use it? Also curious whether most others bypass the water heater or not in the process. (I have already drained the water heater).

[Mobile42]

Davolson: I myself probably wouldn’t leave that fresh water in my tank all summer long. The summer Heat may cause some bacteria growth even with bleach in it (depending on the strength of your mixture). I always bypass the water heater when sanitizing. This website below may shed some light to your https://campergrid.com/keeping-rv-water-fresh/