Left Front Jack Replacement

[jsk]

Next problem. Went to auto level yesterday on flat concrete surface. When front jacks started retracting the left one bound up and stopped. It had about 6" of extension left so it was not overextended or retracted to far. I manually extended front jacks and that pint and it was fine. When retracting it gets to the same spot and bounds up. At that time the system threw fault codes for 3 other jacks. I called Lippert and we got codes reset and suspect batteries are low. They pull 11.9-12v when raising or lowering front jacks and 12.3 under no load. I intend to replace batteries today.

The question is for those that have replaced the jack did you replace just the leg or the entire assembly?

Thanks.

[AKRUEBBE]

Are you extending and retracting your jacks when plugged into shore power? If not, that very well may be your problem.

[jsk]

Originally Posted by AKRUEBBE

Are you extending and retracting your jacks when plugged into shore power? If not, that very well may be your problem.

Yes to shore power when extending/retracting. Voltage check with no load was with batteries isolated.

[jsk]

Yes On shore power when extending/retracting and yes batteries were isolated when checking. I now have new batteries which i have not installed yet.

Thanks for the reply but problem has been solved. The LF front jack needed to be re-homed. It was 5" out of stroke. I'm not sure how that happened yet. Lippert sent homing procedure which i didn't have. I did have the zero point calibration.

What is weird is when this happened the lf jack motor sounded like it really bogged down before it stopped moving the leg. When it stopped the right kept going up and all of trailer weight was on the right jack. It drew enough voltage then to cause multiple jack errors. I was able
To retract jacks to get pressure on both legs. To fix problem I hooked truck up, extended all jacks >6", did an auto retract to re-home the motor, and then zero point calibration.

Lippert was very helpful. Hopefully they will tell me how to solve this ratcheting suspension.

[AKRUEBBE]

It would really be nice if you can share the "homing procedure" with us!!

[jsk]

The way I understand it is this is what to do if you have a ‘special’ error code.

[AKRUEBBE]

Thanks jsk!!

[Radar57]

I have gone to the LCI website and download the manuals, parts list, troublehooting guides, etc onto my tablet for leveling system, slides, furniture etc just so I have it handy if/when I have a problem. I've also done this for other suppliers. Just never know when you might need it.

[klassic]

jsk, I don’t know how you would be out of sync by 5” just out of the blue.
And having drawn down voltage readings.
Sounds to me like the jack has failed and you got it to work through the rough spot and some tread parts have stuck in the block and is allowing it to “seemingly” work, but the RF jack is doing all the lifting.
If you hear any motor struggling and see a large drop in voltage, then you have a bad jack.
After I replaced mine, the sound was very quiet and smooth with very little voltage drop. Totally opposite to how it had been acting for the previous few weeks.

It all sounds like my jack failure. In my opinion all theses jacks will fail eventually, there is no way of keeping grease on the threads, the threaded block is made of soft steel and the threads will cut themselves out cleanly.
Lippert knows there’s a problem. It’s funny how the electric Ground control3 was the saviour to levelling systems ...and now, screw it, let’s put hydraulic back on.

Here’s my thread https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...sue-66739.html

[Rock]

Klassic,
Did u ever get a picture of exactly where to drill and insert a zerk in the front landing gear. I know about the plastic tube from the bottom to lube the threads. I would like to put a zerk where I can grease the top area of the shaft. Never had one apart and will not just install in a good jack without knowing the exact spot. My left one was replaced while at factory a few years back.
Tks
Rock

[klassic]

Rock, I’m thinking the plastic tube method is the only way.
The inner leg rides up and down inside the outer tube, so to try and squirt grease through a zerk would be useless. The grease would have to travel over an inch, through the air, before it hit the threaded rod, and that’s only if the inner leg is lower than the zerk fitting. If it could be done, the grease would only hit one part of the 24” (maybe longer) threaded rod anyway.

Looking at this picture, from my thread, 2naEagel sprays lube through the cracks. His lube is maybe hitting the threads when the inner leg is lower.
You COULD cut that expanded section of the leg out and be able to spray lube directly at the threaded rod, but I don’t know how well spray lube would work on such a high pressure threaded system.
That expanded section of the leg is just a mount to hook on the clamp that squeezes around the tube.
There is two on each side of the leg (so the leg can be mounted on the left or right side). Theoretically, you could cut both expansions out and have two holes to try and get grease on the threads.

It would be nice if Lippert would offer the jacks for sale WITHOUT the motor, to keep the cost at a reasonable level. It would make replacing them a lot less painful on the pocket book. The motor and gear box are simple to take off of the leg.

[klassic]

Circled is the part the that fails. If Lippert made it so that piece could come out (it’s crimped in) and be replaced, it would cost about 10 bucks to fix your jack.
A new jack in Canada is $650.

But I guess Lippert doesn’t need to worry anymore, as they’ve gone to hydraulic.

[Rock]

Ahaaaaa. Tks for the update. I guess I will do the plastic tube thru the bottom and try spraying the high pressure lube from CRC that is recommended for the schwintec gibs up top. Anything is better than nothing.
Hope to get mine back from the repair shop next month. It has been there now six freakin months and five days, but who is counting. And they wonder why there are mass killings!!!!