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Old 05-09-2016, 12:52 PM   #1
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Leveling a Eagle HT 29.5 bhds

I just found this forum and didn't know it existed. Awesome! Maybe you guys can help.
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 pulling the FW in the title. I am using an Andersen Ultimate hitch. My problem is that the FW is towing about 5 inches nose high. I have 8.5 inches of bed clearance to the FW and the pin box is adjusted all the way up. There is one hole left, but the pin box hits the fiberglass before I can reach the highest hole. I really don't want to raise the FW because of the outside kitchen. What set up are y'all using? Are these FW's really low or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 05-09-2016, 02:58 PM   #2
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You're not doing anything wrong. The fact is that the Eagle HT line was made to match up with a typical 1/2 ton truck like Ford F150, which is lower than today's 3/4 ton 2500 trucks. I have a B&W slider hitch and maxed out all of the adjustments at both the pin box and the hitch. My rear axle were also flipped. Still, my 29.5 was still riding 5 inches nose high. So, we ended up having a 5-inch sub frame installed on our rig, and she's now riding straight and leveled. Now, can you still tow nose high? Yes, for a short time. In the long run, more stress will be put on the rear axle and tires. Thus, create uneven wear. It will depend on how often you use your rig and how much towing you'll do.

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Originally Posted by davisenvy View Post
I just found this forum and didn't know it existed. Awesome! Maybe you guys can help.
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 pulling the FW in the title. I am using an Andersen Ultimate hitch. My problem is that the FW is towing about 5 inches nose high. I have 8.5 inches of bed clearance to the FW and the pin box is adjusted all the way up. There is one hole left, but the pin box hits the fiberglass before I can reach the highest hole. I really don't want to raise the FW because of the outside kitchen. What set up are y'all using? Are these FW's really low or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 05-09-2016, 03:17 PM   #3
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In the long run, more stress will be put on the rear axle and tires. Thus, create uneven wear. It will depend on how often you use your rig and how much towing you'll do.
I thought the moryde suspension was designed to equal out the weight of the FW onto all 4 tires even if you are nose high. With my setup I am not nose high so not an issue for me I was just curious as I had heard that somewhere. Am I wrong?
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Old 05-09-2016, 04:35 PM   #4
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I thought the moryde suspension was designed to equal out the weight of the FW onto all 4 tires even if you are nose high. With my setup I am not nose high so not an issue for me I was just curious as I had heard that somewhere. Am I wrong?
This is what the dealer just told me about the Mor ryde suspension. I'm not sure if he's right because my rear tires squat quite a bit more than the front ones.

My truck is a 2006 and the bed height is the exact same as a 2016 F150. This is why I am wondering what I am missing.
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Old 05-09-2016, 05:45 PM   #5
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For me, personally, I can't see putting all of my faith on the Mor/Ryde suspension equalizer. The CRE stands for Compressed Rubber Equalization, so hence the rubber portion can wear and break down over time. A brand new set may do its job for a while, but given some pretty bad road conditions and pot holes our rigs go through, there is no guarantee that the performance will be maintained. Once the rubber bottoms out, the stress will be transferred to the springs, shackles and axles.

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I thought the moryde suspension was designed to equal out the weight of the FW onto all 4 tires even if you are nose high. With my setup I am not nose high so not an issue for me I was just curious as I had heard that somewhere. Am I wrong?
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Old 05-09-2016, 06:20 PM   #6
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ANY tandem axle system with an equalizer (which is almost all of them) balances the load no matter the pitch of the trailer above it. So it stands to reason if the 5er is lever or nose high or whatever no more load would be placed front or rear given everything else is equal. The Morryde just is rubber damped to provide a bit better ride.

You could argue with it being nose high, weight is transfered to the back slightly but it really shouldn't be enough to matter.

What does matter is the layout of the particular camper. The 29.5 has a bunch going on in the back plus the storage which could add considerable weight if a bunch of stuff is back there.

In the end, nose high or level, the axles and tires won't be stressed any more than the other.

I have the 29.5 and pull it with a Ram 2500 Outdoorsman. The Outdoorsman sets about an inch taller than standard and I've also added 35 inches tires. I set nose high too. The HTs are just low. From the factory, they are spring over so you can't change that. There are two sets of holes though for mounting the springs and they come in the upper holes so you can gain almost 2 inches of height by swapping those. I plan to do this myself. Another cheap option would be a Correct Track setup. That gives you about two more inches of height. That would make up most of your difference.

I don't have an Anderson but is that set in the lowest position? You could easily gain two more inches without having bed rail contact there too if you could. Or I'd wonder if that fiberglass could be trimmed without affecting anything?
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:34 PM   #7
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The Andersen is as low as it will go. I talked to a rep today and he said he might be able to make the one for the flat bed hitch work in my truck. It drope down to 13 in and up to 16.

He also said not to use a mor ryde kingpin. I'm wondering if a regular kingpin might be able to a just higher. I'm not too excited about trimming the fibwrglass, but it is always an option.

I plan on dropping the leaf springs this weekend . I don't really want to raise the FW, but it seems I'm running out of options.

I've also noticed the Andersen hitch wont go any lower than 16.25 in. I'm looking at a Husky that will go to 14.25. That would be 2 in, but I really like the Andersen. It's light, doesn't take up much room and easy to hitch up.
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Old 05-09-2016, 09:57 PM   #8
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That's interesting about the height. I like my current hitch set up but it's so damn heavy and was thinking about picking up an Anderson. However, I only have 6 inches between my bed rails and am nose high. I'd be way high with the Anderson. I do have a Revolution pinbox but I can't see them being different heights?

As for trimming the fiberglass, I'd bet it's just cosmetic and once the pinbox is mounted up another hole, the trimmed fiberglass would look just like factory. Then again, I don't know for certain so don't hold me to that. Lol.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davisenvy View Post
I just found this forum and didn't know it existed. Awesome! Maybe you guys can help.
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 pulling the FW in the title. I am using an Andersen Ultimate hitch. My problem is that the FW is towing about 5 inches nose high. I have 8.5 inches of bed clearance to the FW and the pin box is adjusted all the way up. There is one hole left, but the pin box hits the fiberglass before I can reach the highest hole. I really don't want to raise the FW because of the outside kitchen. What set up are y'all using? Are these FW's really low or am I doing something wrong?
Did you upgrade to the 16 inch tires? I have a 2003 1500hd with a lift, and 33's and I sit about the same height as a stock 2500hd and my 29.5 rides pretty close to level. I chose to upgrade to the 16 inch tires on the camper and I also have the revolution pin box. I can get hitch measurements and clearences this weekend if you would like.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:54 AM   #10
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I'm pretty sure I have the 15 inch wheels. I would probably let it ride high and wear these tires out before replacing just to get another inch. That is a good idea though.

Do any of you guys have your pin box adjusted all the way up? If so, are you able to clear the fiberglass on the nose?

For the record, from the ground to the top of my open tail gate is 36 inches, the same as a 2016 F150 4x4
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