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Old 03-15-2016, 11:55 AM   #91
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The 7 pin connector.
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Old 03-15-2016, 12:02 PM   #92
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Rock, do me a favour. When you pick up your trailer, see if they have one of those testers and ask them to check your trucks output.
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Old 03-15-2016, 01:16 PM   #93
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Will do.
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Old 03-16-2016, 01:45 PM   #94
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I know this may sound like captain obvious just showed up, are the brakes on the correct side of the axle? I believe there is a primary shoe and the magnet arm should wrap around the front of the axle. I've had it happen before, people get so into looking for the deep complicated cause and can simply be looking past a simpler issue. I know it's a long shot but you got new axles on the old trailer (could have been installed backwards). I would hope a service tech would notice but I've seen simpler things go completely unseen……

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Old 03-16-2016, 02:30 PM   #95
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A good thought Ross. I find no opinion obvious, because I'm still stumped.
But after I had my SOB worked on (they tried just adjusting the brakes first) and they would have noticed the adjuster spinning the wrong way.
Then they changed the brakes with Dexter backing plates. No way they would have put them on wrong too.
The Jayco dealer took the NorthPoint wheels off twice. Adjusted, examined, and the 2nd time to sand and clean. They would have had to see an improper installation.

Unless I'm being duped and they have never taken the wheels off.
This can be considered 3 sets of brand new brakes I've had, 2 on the SOB, one on the NorthPoint. They all have/had exactly the same braking force. Controller at max, slider squeezed, they gently slow the truck down.

I had resigned to the fact maybe I was asking too much from the brakes on a heavy trailer (not really that heavy) and mine are working appropriately with my truck. Until Gowesley posted.
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Old 03-16-2016, 02:59 PM   #96
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I knew it would be a long shot…… Will the local dealer allow you to hook to any other rig in the yard to eliminate the trailer from the problem list? I would think they would be all over that idea so they can show it isn't a trailer issue, even just driving in the yard would settle that.
I would also find a new truck dealer if that's how you get treated for buying a top shelf item every three or four years, the salesman would know I wasn't satisfied with the service and I was going elsewhere for the next truck.

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Old 03-16-2016, 03:49 PM   #97
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Thanks Ross. I haven't talked to my Ford salesman yet, because for the last five years I thought it was my CedarCreek with the problem. That was one of the major reasons for me getting a new rig.
I got the NorthPoint in August and slowly I have been seeking the problem.
I'm more into it now, because I made a innocent comment on this thread and ended up hijacking it.

No, the dealer won't let me take any trailers, because they are convinced it is the truck. I never pushed it, in August, because the old CedarCreek did the same thing.
We did pull mine with their F450 with a P2 and it was the same poor braking., but later we found out the P2 is only putting out 9v. Something was wrong. So it was another inconclusive test (among many).
When I talked to the service manager there he said "Ford controller? Get rid of it"
No one cares (Ford or Jayco) that I had 2 other Ford controllers that worked perfectly. It's very frustrating.

I did ask the service manager at Ford and he said no chance of me hooking up to a new truck, nor does he care because he says it's the trailer's problem.
The other problem here is the service manager said this is how the 2012 brake controller works. Even if I tested it with a 2016 truck off the lot and it works fine, they will say this is how the 2012 brake controller works. Plus I have already confirmed that my controller puts out 12.5-13.5v on full.
Another inconclusive test.

I think I'm going to go back to Jayco dealer and pay them to prove to me that my NorthPoint brakes work.
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:41 PM   #98
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Call your salesman and ask him to let you know if any used trucks come in that you could test with? He will be more inclined to help you out than the service department I would think.
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:54 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock View Post
klassic
After what u just said hook a battery directly to the trailer plug and see if u can move FW. If all is good get an aftermarket controller and disconnect factory one .
Rock
Why not just pull the emergency pin loose and then try to move the trailer? If that works, you know it must be the controller. Mine got caught and pulled loose turning out of the yard. Blocked the road and could not go anywhere until I jumped out and plugged it back in.
I also had an idiot pull right out in front of me and had to lock them up on my. 2015 Ram 2500. I know they work for sure now!
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:00 AM   #100
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We pulled the disconnect at the dealer, although very stiff...my diesel could still move it.
The tech seemed to think that was acceptable.
But with the the controller on max it is easier to pull.
Unless someone can confirm (and the tech obviously didn't) that pulling the pin will LOCK the brakes and the only way for a truck to move it is to drag the wheels along the pavement. It definitely didn't do that.
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