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Old 03-08-2016, 08:46 AM   #21
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Jayco authorized my dealer on the first request.
Maybe you set the standard.
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:58 AM   #22
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I bought a 25.00 Thermal Heat gun to "shoot my tires and brakes/bearings " to see any deviations in temperatures
Works great
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Old 03-08-2016, 01:43 PM   #23
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klassic & Soltice,

I have read on several sites that over greasing was an issue on new RV's. Mine was not an over grease issue but it seems the Delievery vehicle smoked the brakes an had to know it. You cannot melt the cast around a lug nut without billowing smoke. Everyone should get a heat gun. I check tow vehicle tires and disk and all tires and drum temps every stop. What is always interesting is on my TT I had the right side tires were always 10-15 hotter than left side. It was always the same so I assumed more weight on that side. It is the only way to see how your brakes r an I bet the guys with leaking seals have way cooler drums after stopping. I also check my trainee pan and cooler lines in and out. I have digital guages for turbo, EGT and trainee. The trainee sensor is in the pan and temps run 20-30 higher on guage than with my heat gun. Dodge ran computer scan and confirmed my readout is 20 off. So I now have piece of mind when the guage says 220 I know I am no hotter than 190-200 on hot days heavy tow with ac on
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Old 03-08-2016, 05:44 PM   #24
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I don't need to worry Rock...I run my Ford brake controller at 10 and the trailer barely slows down. Lol.
I won't get any heat.
Know one knows what the problem is. Or at least will admit to it.
My old rig almost pushed me into the back of a locked up semi on I90 2 years ago.
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:30 PM   #25
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When the hub is pumped full with grease some old grease has to be removed. Grease when heated will expand and will push out the seal. Also never have the bearings to tight as this also will heat up the bearing and grease can't create the film between the cone rollers and cubs. I'm still old fashioned and check tires and bearings by hand.

Forty years ago a Mack service mechanic had the left front bearings to tight. In the middle of the night while driving down the road the oil in them started a fire, lucky it was snowing and put it out with snow. The flames where 2 ft. up.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:31 AM   #26
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There is a ton of write ups on sites about factory controller problems. Dodge an ford. Have u considered an aftermarket one.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:46 AM   #27
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I've read them all.
I'm thinking about an aftermarket controller, but not really the look of what I paid for. Considering I have had 2 other SuperDutys with perfect controllers, I paid for it again and I expect it to work.
I'm still working on Ford. No on will talk to me.
I'm also considering disk brakes.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:24 AM   #28
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Disc r good I swapped out drum brakes on my triaxle boat trailer for disc brakes an big improvement. But also they were surge brakes. It is a big expense to swap a trailer to disc brakes. My TT stopped fine with the drums. Will see how these new ones work. Even with my bad brakes I had stopping power and I bet the controller u use has a lot to do with it. On my TT I had them set with high power for highway use and as long as I was easy slowing the truck at slow speeds worked well. A few time going slow and having to stop quickly the TT would stop the truck. U would think the factory controller would be the best. I guess that is why some add on ones are not highly rated and others r. Unless Ford fixes the controller disc will be the same since the truck controller will be sending the signal to the electric/hydraulic control unit.
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:04 AM   #29
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The disk brake thing would be an expensive experiment, that's for sure.
Squeezing the controller manual slider just slows the truck. Never has it locked the wheels. Not even in gravel.
I can squeeze the slider when stopped and it's fairly easy to drive away. Even on gravel.
That's with the visual gain meter showing full...when I am coming to a light, slightly aggressive stop the meter is never over half. Can't even feel the brakes.
I have to stomp on the brake pedal to get the meter 90%/100% and the braking is like described above..slightly slows the trailer.
So going down hills using the brakes, it's all my truck doing the slowing.

The tow haul really helps the braking to make normal stops livable. But panic stops are not good. So far I've had two close calls and those were with my old rig. The NorthPoint is about 800lbs heavier.
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:30 AM   #30
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I have checked my add on controller and with meter at plug when I push the Manuel slider the voltage goes way up and than settles down to like 4 volts which is stopped setting with foot on brake. Stomp on ur brake pedal and see what a meter at the plug does than do the same with slider. Sitting still with slider moved to max it should spike up to full volts. I checked mine after my brake problem just to ensure that no voltage is at plug when foot off brake ( stray voltage) and got zero. I will also check my new brakes when I get mine back at the plug at the brake. I want to make sure the RV is not getting any stray voltage to the brakes when hooked up and foot off my TV brake. I know the truck is good but I want to ensure nothing from the Rv wiring is mis wired.
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