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Old 03-11-2016, 07:02 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Bookemdanno View Post
Well at least you got it figured out! Best of luck!
Not that you want to hear this, but the previous TT was set at light electric 6 and the new North Point is set to Heavy Electric 7...all is good! This is with a Ram 2500. And...NO...I'm not a Ram guy. Actually, I was more of a Ford guy until I drove the big 3 back to back.
That sounds like it should be.


How about you stick an ohm meter into the bottom two pins of your trailer cord for me and tell me how many ohms you get from your NorthPoint's fresh brakes.
(The bottom two holes being with the plugs top lug being the top.)

Or if your ever in Ontario come pull my trailer?
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:50 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by klassic View Post
...
12.5 v max hooked up and driving.
...
1 ohm at the brake terminal in the trailer cord.
...
Please point out if my math, or numbers are wrong.

I give up, the brakes are good enough
Looks like the truck is putting out enough voltage.
Maybe the trailer is the trouble. ...
12.5 v into 1 ohm would be 12.5 amp (I=E/R).

Perhaps everything is working as it should but the brakes just aren't strong enough for the trailer weight? I wouldn't be surprised, trailer manufacturers seem to spec everything right at the limit.

FWIW, I can't lock mine up either but rolling at about 20 mph and giving them full power they will stop the rig pretty quickly by themselves. That's with brand new drums, shoes & magnets and heavier wiring. Probably good enough. Big disks would probably be better but they're big bucks, too.
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:57 PM   #73
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One question too is how many miles you have on the trailer I know with both my car hauler and my new tt the brakes really didn't work well until I had a few hundred miles on them to bed them in.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:09 PM   #74
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Sorry... I was using 1.2 ohms when I did the math but just went with 1 when I wrote it down. It's 1.2 when the magnets were hot.

At 20 mph I wouldn't stop pretty quick but I would stop.
At 50mph it would be a long coast before stoping, but I could gas it and keep going.
It's not that I don't have brakes, they just aren't very good.
I don't know if you read the whole thread, but previous trailer had great brakes with two previous f350's. Then poor braking with new current f350. Then current new trailer poor braking with same f350.

$1600 gets me the parts for disks. Looking in wallet now.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:49 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Paintinfool3 View Post
One question too is how many miles you have on the trailer I know with both my car hauler and my new tt the brakes really didn't work well until I had a few hundred miles on them to bed them in.
My previous trailer 5 years worth of miles
The northpoint around about 1000
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:47 AM   #76
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Well the dealer emailed and right side brakes arrive today and the paint shop repaired the cap Friday. If all goes well hopefully get it back this weekend. Have to see if the dealer wears in the brakes or if I do. Will look good at cap repair and roof to see if it is lifting like AZ's did on the edges. Will post what I find when I get it back.
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Old 03-14-2016, 04:03 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by klassic View Post
I've done that by pulling the disconnect plug. I can still move the trailer, but MUCH more resistance. The wheels don't skid, but my truck could pull a house over.

The dealer spent almost a day playing with this issue, upon approval from Jayco. And then a little more
They say it's the truck. Ford says it's the trailer.
I say I don't have enough money to pay anyone to figure this out.
I tried to get Ford to do something when the truck was 6 months old (part of the long story).. Now it's out of warranty, and I'm not paying for them to look at it when they have no clue how a brake controller is suppose to work, let alone know how to test it.

I'm reluctant to put in a controller because I don't want to pay for it, I don't think I should have to, and if I use an adapter to the Ford harness I won't be sure that the Ford wiring is isn't the problem, if it doesn't work. So I will have wasted money on a new controller.
And again, I don't think I should have to pay for it.
Klassic,
Try pulling your trailer with someone elses truck to see if problem remains.
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Old 03-14-2016, 04:31 PM   #78
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Klassic,
Try pulling your trailer with someone elses truck to see if problem remains.
Oh Magnum if it was only that simple.
I would have had this figured out 5 years ago when my SOB went from stud to dud.
I don't know anyone.
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:02 PM   #79
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Klassic


Sorry to here your problem, I have a 2012 f350 I bought in oct 2011, I had a 2011 eagle 37 foot 5th wheel I pulled with it and now in Sept I bought a 2016 Pinnacle FBTS and I dont notice any problems, I know if I pull the brake lever I can lock the trailer brakes, and like you said I have my gain set at number 7, I like to feel the trailer drag alittle when I apply the brakes. I also use my truck at work on a 14000 lb trailer for hauling my skidsteer and it works fine, hope you figure out the problem, pulling that much weight you want to be able to stop it . I havent pulled my 5th wheel since last Oct so hopefully its ok this spring.
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:55 PM   #80
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Gowesley will you come to my house with your truck please
I've been waiting 5 years for this situation...same truck, same controller, basically same 5ver. Your Pinnacle is even heavier. Perfect. They even have the exact same brakes and wiring, put together probably by the same person.
I would love to see either dealer talk their way out of the problem if I had the proof hooked up to my northpoint.

I can't even use any of this info you just gave me with either the Jayco dealer or my ford dealer. Each one will say it's the others problem.

Geez Gowesley our trucks were built at the same time too, I got mine beginning of November 2011. So we have the same generation of controller.
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