Malfunctioning Black water valve Pinnacle 2nd Bathroom

[vivusCraig]

On my half bath on my Pinnacle 36FBTS, the black water tank valve has become very hard to close. A couple of days ago, it stopped closing all the way.

Now I am not certain if the problem is the valve or if things are plugged up.

I have tried flushing with a wand from inside the rig and outside. It has always been my habit to use the black water connection whenever I dump.

However, I attached a separate gate valve with a holding tank rinser on it where I could plug my hose on the outside to try to flush water in the plumbing. However, because the PVC pipes are not a straight shot, it has had little effect.

So the bottom line is: is my valve the problem and if so what next?

Or will the valve not close because of some clog?

Would appreciate any insights.

[norty1]

Being obstructed by something is about all that can go wrong with the valve itself. Forcing it in may do more damage if something is clogged in it. I would try the twist on valve and allow the valve to be exposed to water from the tank and see if that loosens it up. If you can get it to drain, a flexible camera may be a option. The valve could have a twist or bind in the cable at the valve also.
I would try those things before I dug into the underneath to get to the valve.

It is not hard to replace once drained / flushed and accessed.

[fast_st]

if its a typical 4 bolt gate valve, try cycling it as its flowing clean water, if its still binding, it may have to come out after a couple good flushes, remove the 4 bolts and slide the guts out of the middle, you can purchase new seals or a new center section or just give it a good cleaning, something may be bent.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by fast_st

if its a typical 4 bolt gate valve, try cycling it as its flowing clean water, if its still binding, it may have to come out after a couple good flushes, remove the 4 bolts and slide the guts out of the middle, you can purchase new seals or a new center section or just give it a good cleaning, something may be bent.

Not sure where the valve itself is. It may be covered by the underbelly which would make it a sizable job. Hoping the issue is that there is a clog which is preventing it closing. If not, I will have to find it and potentially replace it.

Originally Posted by norty1

Being obstructed by something is about all that can go wrong with the valve itself. Forcing it in may do more damage if something is clogged in it. I would try the twist on valve and allow the valve to be exposed to water from the tank and see if that loosens it up. If you can get it to drain, a flexible camera may be a option. The valve could have a twist or bind in the cable at the valve also.
I would try those things before I dug into the underneath to get to the valve.

It is not hard to replace once drained / flushed and accessed.

Thanks Norty1. Do you have any idea where the valve would be located in the second bathroom of a Pinnacle 36FBTS? I would hate to have to pull down the underbelly to gain access. Will be dumping tomorrow morning so will try some of your suggestions.

[RichW]

Also, make sure the cable has not gone wonky.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by RichW

Also, make sure the cable has not gone wonky.

Thanks RichW. I think I may have to take the wall down in the basement to check the cable. We are on the road right now travelling. Not terribly convenient. Ouch.

[norty1]

I have no idea how to direct you to the tank valve. On every rig I have ever owned, it took some time to find out the general area. It;s not necessary to remove the whole underbelly, just enough to get to the valves. On my current fifth wheel, I can see the valves and sensors by removing a thin wall in the large storage compartment.

The main thing is to travel with the twist-on Valterra valve on and securely attached, and the tank valve with a problem open to allow sloshing movement to loosen. Also work the defective valve from time to time to encourage a clog to move on.

Look at the twist on valve and you may have a better understanding of how the valve works because the one you can't see is very similar.

Hope it works.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by norty1

I have no idea how to direct you to the tank valve. On every rig I have ever owned, it took some time to find out the general area. It;s not necessary to remove the whole underbelly, just enough to get to the valves. On my current fifth wheel, I can see the valves and sensors by removing a thin wall in the large storage compartment.

The main thing is to travel with the twist-on Valterra valve on and securely attached, and the tank valve with a problem open to allow sloshing movement to loosen. Also work the defective valve from time to time to encourage a clog to move on.

Look at the twist on valve and you may have a better understanding of how the valve works because the one you can't see is very similar.

Hope it works.

Thanks Norty1. That is so very helpful. My next stop, I will be there for 6 days. No sewer connection but I should be able to take down the wall and trace the cable. I too think it is located behind the wall in my basement. Appreciate the time and detail you take in responding. Great to hear, I can get at it without taking the underbelly down. Will leave the valve open as we travel. That is a good idea. Will keep you posted.

[DonaandDon]

I use this every time I pull the valve.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by DonaandDon

I use this every time I pull the valve.

Thanks. That is exactly what I use. As effective and much cheaper than other brands that I have used.

[RichW]

Originally Posted by vivusCraig

Thanks. That is exactly what I use. As effective and much cheaper than other brands that I have used.

Exactly where do you apply it?
Thanks,
Rich

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by RichW

Exactly where do you apply it?
Thanks,
Rich

I apply it to the shaft of the valve that is exposed as far as it will reach. That of course doesn't help the gate valve that is hidden behind the wall that I can't reach.

[DonaandDon]

Not a good situation. Looks like a tie-wrap might have came loos and kinked the cable or the valve it's self is fubar.

I cut a slot in the under belly, peeked in, cut a little more until I found my issue once. The cotter pin on the valve rod failed. LOWES had patch material to cover my exploratorily surgery to the under belly. Gorilla construction tape held the patch material for 5yrs.

Good luck.

[putz]

I had a small leak on my grey water valve (New rv). I took an old hose and shoved it up the pipe to the valve location. Turned on the water and moved the hose in and out. It worked I think there was a small plastic shaving wedged in the valve.
The main thing is to change all your caps to the type with a small hose outlet. I test mine for water before opening the large cap.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by putz

I had a small leak on my grey water valve (New rv). I took an old hose and shoved it up the pipe to the valve location. Turned on the water and moved the hose in and out. It worked I think there was a small plastic shaving wedged in the valve.
The main thing is to change all your caps to the type with a small hose outlet. I test mine for water before opening the large cap.

Great idea. I will have to give that a try. I am currently at a campground without a sewer so I am limited to what I can try until we move on.

Our plumbing set up is not simple. We have two black water tanks and two grey tanks so there is not a straight shot. The valve that has an issue is particularly hard one to get too.

[Jim Davis]

One other thing you can try is after flushing dump a gallon of white vinegar in the tank. Just leave it till the next trip. It won't hurt anything but will loosen scale build up. I learned this trick with toilets on boats.

Might help, can't hurt and is cheap

[DNelson]

I have read of people putting 1/2 cup of a cheap vegetable oil down a drain after dumping. It supposedly lubricates the gate valve. Not sure if it works but it sure is a cheap option to try.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by DNelson

I have read of people putting 1/2 cup of a cheap vegetable oil down a drain after dumping. It supposedly lubricates the gate valve. Not sure if it works but it sure is a cheap option to try.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Will give it a shot when we move to the next campground. Thanks for the tip.

Originally Posted by Jim Davis

One other thing you can try is after flushing dump a gallon of white vinegar in the tank. Just leave it till the next trip. It won't hurt anything but will loosen scale build up. I learned this trick with toilets on boats.

Might help, can't hurt and is cheap

I have tried that Jim. Appreciate the suggestion. I found it did help some but I need to dislodge whatever is gumming up my valve to get it closed.

[Extreme]

Originally Posted by vivusCraig

Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Will give it a shot when we move to the next campground. Thanks for the tip.



I have tried that Jim. Appreciate the suggestion. I found it did help some but I need to dislodge whatever is gumming up my valve to get it closed.

Same thing happened to my neighbor at a Koa, BRAND NEW fifth wheel. After a few dump session valve would not close any more. Another RV er removed part of the under belly cover to access the valve screws and removed it.
STUCK in it was the round Cut out of the toilet drain hole cut during the toilet installation. He replaced the valve and everything worked perfect once again.

All you can do is shake your head but it happens all the time.

[JohnWedell]

It really would be nice if they put an access door under the gate valves like they do for the slide motors to gain access when you need it but I guess that’s really pushing the envelope. It really amazes me that they don’t care about access to some of the things that they install. To replace an eight dollar element on the water heater you have to remove the water heater from the unit. And the heater for the unit is near impossible to remove and there is no outside access. Sorry for the rant.