Mods to 377 RLBH?

[Fire_Instructor]

Didn't really want to go the cost of upgrading the wheels to go to the Sailun, but, if I really have to......

[Dskyward]

I kept my stock rims, they said 3750 lbs max on the inside wheel, and manufacturer gave an ok to use G-rated tires. Tom kept his stock wheels on his 2016 also as I recall. Plus the Sailun rep recommended me downgrading from 85 psi to 70 psi for best even tread wear.

[Fire_Instructor]

Did you replace your spare(s) as well? I carry two spares. the factory underside-mount, and a rear bumper mounted spare that I added.

[Dskyward]

No, still factory. I had to use it first time last Memorial Day for a huge bolt that I picked up on the road. And fortunately, due to the G rated rubber thickness, I was able to get it repaired for only 20 bucks, still holds air perfectly. Forgot to add it worked excellent for 850 miles until the repair.

[Dskyward]

The Sailun tire is 61 lbs. much more steel and rubber in that tire vs the factory Rainier, which is 35 lbs I think.

[2naEagle]

Fire Instructor what ever you do take Marathon off the list.

[WeRVoyagers]

Originally Posted by Dskyward

Looks so nice. Your new truck have a bed cam? I’d like to try one of those someday to get my bed space back, from a 285 lb BW Comp slider, but flip side of coin I’ve got a short box, w/limited turn angle (45deg) and hitching then gets challenging with my 07. Just need a bed camera to fix that.

No bed cam, but it was actually pretty easy to line up. It was so nice having all the bed space back the instant I unhitched. I got the B&W OEM ball and Safety Chain kit and that thing is awesome! Takes seconds to remove and put in and you don't have to touch the ball to remove it like you would with others.

Also, I should mention that the ride was amazing with this thing - at times I even forgot the trailer was back there (could have been how tired I was ....). I have never towed a 5th wheel before, so I can't compare the two but I can say 98% of the time it felt like there was nothing behind me (bridges set off the other 2%).

What made me go with it was that it was the same cost as buying a decent 5th wheel hitch and that I would always have my bed space when not towing without having to worry about removing (and storing) a ~200lb hitch (instead it is now a 10lb ball).

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by JetTech

But only when on 50A, right?

If I recall correctly, you were also successfully able to run 2 of them on 30A. Interesting, because this weekend, I was able to run 2 only for a very short time before the 30A shore CB tripped. My EMS was showing 15A on one leg, 12 on the other, so something must've cycled, taking both legs collectively over the 30A threshold. I know on 50A, you have two 50A 120V legs, but on 30A, via an adapter, you have a single 30A 120V that splits and is shared amongst both legs in the camper.

Have you ever had the 30A breaker trip when you were running both of your original A/C's?

Yes, all 3 only on 50 amp.

I’ve never run both ACs when on 30 amp at a CG. I don’t go to 30 amp only sites during the summer [emoji23]

I did my test at home and ran both original units for several hours but I didn’t have the water heater or microwave in use.

If you have the residential fridge, it could have gone into defrost mode which definitely uses more power.

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

Didn't really want to go the cost of upgrading the wheels to go to the Sailun, but, if I really have to......

Do as Darin suggested. Get the sailun and don’t ever worry again. I put them on my stock rims...no problem.

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

Did you replace your spare(s) as well? I carry two spares. the factory underside-mount, and a rear bumper mounted spare that I added.

I kept my original spare. Unless you run over a 4” screw (bolt, ahem Darin!) you’ll probably never need it. I’ve had my sailun tires for almost 3 years without any issues at all. (I took them off my previous rig before trading it in)

[Bookemdanno]

Another vote for the Sailun’s. I’ve had mine on the stock rims for almost 3 years now...problem free! Between the tires and TPMS...it’s one less thing to worry about.

[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by WeRVoyagers

No bed cam, but it was actually pretty easy to line up. It was so nice having all the bed space back the instant I unhitched. I got the B&W OEM ball and Safety Chain kit and that thing is awesome! Takes seconds to remove and put in and you don't have to touch the ball to remove it like you would with others.



Also, I should mention that the ride was amazing with this thing - at times I even forgot the trailer was back there (could have been how tired I was [emoji99]....). I have never towed a 5th wheel before, so I can't compare the two but I can say 98% of the time it felt like there was nothing behind me (bridges set off the other 2%).



What made me go with it was that it was the same cost as buying a decent 5th wheel hitch and that I would always have my bed space when not towing without having to worry about removing (and storing) a ~200lb hitch (instead it is now a 10lb ball).

Yeah I’m with you, bed space is nice for only a 10 lb removal. I’m very tempted for 2 reasons. See, I’ve already got the B/W Turnover Ball with safety hooks, which came with my used Megacab. So I’m basically set. I saw Big Truck Big RV video where he put this on his truck and was very pleased. After removal of 75 lb Moryde, It’s heavy at 175 lbs, and so #1- bed space, #2- I’d lose the BW slider at 285 lbs, and helps 185 lbs to add an aux fuel tank in the bed, which I’d rig up to be able to remove it when not using (2 bolts & a quick fuel disconnect). Thing is there have been campgrounds I had to use the slider, and most recently at a friends ranch where we now frequent, and upon leaving I have to hookup at a 85 degree angle to pull the rig out. I still need to sleep on it some more.

[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

I kept my original spare. Unless you run over a 4” screw (bolt, ahem Darin!) you’ll probably never need it. I’ve had my sailun tires for almost 3 years without any issues at all. (I took them off my previous rig before trading it in)

Yep, my first tire hazard ever in the North Point, after 22K miles on Memorial Day. Funny thing was it was the right rear tire. Imagine that...I missed it with 3 tires ahead of it! If this happened with the Rainier, I’d be buying a replacement. Another testament in this beast of a tire.

[Springhook]

I am still confused on the recommended PSI for the Sailuns. I just completed a 8000 mile trip to the Canadian Rockies from Austin Texas to New Jersey then across the Rockies to Vancouver and back home. My gross was maxed and I started with the original Rainiers. Notice I said "started". I now have 2 of the original 5. I ran them at 80 psi. Thanks to TST TPMS, I still have fenders. I just today ordered Sailuns. If I am running heavy, shouldn't I run the Sailuns at 110 psi?

[prm99v6]

I put Endurance on my travel trailer and was very pleased with them. That’s what came in my 19
North Point. But admittedly this is an entirely different animal. We’ll see how they hold up.

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by Springhook

I am still confused on the recommended PSI for the Sailuns. I just completed a 8000 mile trip to the Canadian Rockies from Austin Texas to New Jersey then across the Rockies to Vancouver and back home. My gross was maxed and I started with the original Rainiers. Notice I said "started". I now have 2 of the original 5. I ran them at 80 psi. Thanks to TST TPMS, I still have fenders. I just today ordered Sailuns. If I am running heavy, shouldn't I run the Sailuns at 110 psi?

That’s what you should do if you want the max capacity. I had been running mine for 2-1/2 years at 110. About 6 months ago I dropped them to 105 to “soften” the ride.

[jasonmiddlebrooks]

Originally Posted by prm99v6

I put Endurance on my travel trailer and was very pleased with them. That’s what came in my 19
North Point. But admittedly this is an entirely different animal. We’ll see how they hold up.

Have 1.5 years and over 10k miles on mine and I have been very pleased...

[WeRVoyagers]

Originally Posted by Dskyward

Yeah I’m with you, bed space is nice for only a 10 lb removal. I’m very tempted for 2 reasons. See, I’ve already got the B/W Turnover Ball with safety hooks, which came with my used Megacab. So I’m basically set. I saw Big Truck Big RV video where he put this on his truck and was very pleased. After removal of 75 lb Moryde, It’s heavy at 175 lbs, and so #1- bed space, #2- I’d lose the BW slider at 285 lbs, and helps 185 lbs to add an aux fuel tank in the bed, which I’d rig up to be able to remove it when not using (2 bolts & a quick fuel disconnect). Thing is there have been campgrounds I had to use the slider, and most recently at a friends ranch where we now frequent, and upon leaving I have to hookup at a 85 degree angle to pull the rig out. I still need to sleep on it some more.

Understandable, how long is the bed on your truck?

I still need to find out my turning radius. When I was backing it up at the campground it looked dang close at about 45 degrees, but it was also midnight and was probably not as close as it looked. Will need to go out to a nice big lot and turn it until a spotter says stop to see where it is at.

[JetTech]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

I did my test at home and ran both original units for several hours but I didn’t have the water heater or microwave in use.

What is your connection at home rated for Tom? I do have the residential fridge, which sounds like it is the most likely culprit, but I'm not sure why 30A at home versus at a campground would be different, unless you're turning off your fridge completely at home? (If I can recall, you had the residential fridge as well?) We tend to leave ours on even at home to keep us from having to empty it of miscellaneous condiments and the occasional leftover beer! But we're camping locally any weekend we can find the time and a spot so its a time saver as much as anything...

Another thing it could've been was not setting my thermostat temperatures low enough. If they cycle on/off, it also draws a lot of amps. I'm close to 30A when both are running normally, but I'm betting I'm well beyond that as they cycle. Did you test yours with the thermostats set to the lowest setting?

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by JetTech

What is your connection at home rated for Tom? I do have the residential fridge, which sounds like it is the most likely culprit, but I'm not sure why 30A at home versus at a campground would be different, unless you're turning off your fridge completely at home? (If I can recall, you had the residential fridge as well?) We tend to leave ours on even at home to keep us from having to empty it of miscellaneous condiments and the occasional leftover beer! But we're camping locally any weekend we can find the time and a spot so its a time saver as much as anything...

Another thing it could've been was not setting my thermostat temperatures low enough. If they cycle on/off, it also draws a lot of amps. I'm close to 30A when both are running normally, but I'm betting I'm well beyond that as they cycle. Did you test yours with the thermostats set to the lowest setting?

I have a 30 amp plug at home. I do have the residential fridge as well. We do the same thing...our fridge is always on keeping condiments, beer, sodas, beer, etc cold in between trips.

When I tested mine, they were both set to 72.
Maybe you had a weak breaker at the campground? What was your voltage? Lower voltage requires higher amps