Moving BBQ quick connect

prbushaw · 03-01-2023, 04:41 PM

I have a 2017 Pinnacle and would like to move the quick connect BBQ connection from the back of the trailer to something more in the middle of the curb side. Can I just disconnect the current connection point on the rear and move it closer to the entry steps? Do I need to worry how the rubber gas line goes across the bottom of the trailer? Would it be O.K. to mount the hose up on one of the cross members near the axels? I could leave the current quick disconnect where it is and make a new connection where the gas tees off for the stove. I can see an unused "port" at the location. I would still have to run a line under the trailer. What I am trying to accomplish is a quick disconnect more in the center of the trailer instead of way at the end of the trailer.

TaftCoach · 03-01-2023, 05:19 PM

The person that ran the original line was a barely over minimum wage worker with little training. I think you can run another line. Just remember to test each connection for leakage. A gas leak could be deadly.

prbushaw · 03-01-2023, 11:37 PM

Do you think I could just go across outside of the coreplast? Could I just use a rubber line or should I use something else? Would going under the underbelly coral last be the best for protection?

Marcm157 · 03-02-2023, 05:37 AM

I moved mine because it was at the farthest point from my outdoor kitchen. I had a line made at my local propane store. I ran it outside the coroplast along the frame rail. Just make sure to keep it away from any moving parts and secure it well. I used an open port an a distribution block.

TaftCoach · 03-02-2023, 06:27 AM

Anytime I'm making a change my goal is I want it protected 2x from what the factory did. Under the lining has the advantage of greater protection. The disadvantage is not being able to visually inspect it and potentially trapping gas. I'd keep it outside with additional supports keeping it tighter to the lining.

For me if much rather work on electric with a fuse or breaker to catch a mistake. Water is my next favorite where a problem could be very costly but probably not life-threatening. Gas has me thinking "do I really, really, need to make the swap?"

Before doing anything I'd be at my propane dealer, the guy that repairs the equipment on food trucks, etc and getting their advice and guidance. Plus my wife trusts random strangers like him over me in these areas lol

Marcm157 · 03-02-2023, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaftCoach

Anytime I'm making a change my goal is I want it protected 2x from what the factory did. Under the lining has the advantage of greater protection. The disadvantage is not being able to visually inspect it and potentially trapping gas. I'd keep it outside with additional supports keeping it tighter to the lining.

For me if much rather work on electric with a fuse or breaker to catch a mistake. Water is my next favorite where a problem could be very costly but probably not life-threatening. Gas has me thinking "do I really, really, need to make the swap?"

Before doing anything I'd be at my propane dealer, the guy that repairs the equipment on food trucks, etc and getting their advice and guidance. Plus my wife trusts random strangers like him over me in these areas lol

I agree with your entire assessment except I don't trust anyone to work on anything I own. And your last line is classic!!! I actually spit coffee all over myself reading it.

Jagiven · 03-02-2023, 08:05 AM

My HTT does not have an enclosed underbelly. The rubber hose is exposed to all the elements. I would make sure it is secured to something more than the coroplast.

prbushaw · 03-02-2023, 10:17 AM

Sounds like the best option is to have a new hose run from the distribution block attached to a frame rail across the Coloplast. Thanks to all for your suggestions!

**JFlightRisk** · 03-02-2023, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prbushaw

Sounds like the best option is to have a new hose run from the distribution block attached to a frame rail across the Coloplast. Thanks to all for your suggestions!

Don't be surprised if the plug in the distribution block is VERY hard to get out. I have read they may have used Loctite on them.

Jerry713 · 03-02-2023, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prbushaw

Sounds like the best option is to have a new hose run from the distribution block attached to a frame rail across the Coloplast. Thanks to all for your suggestions!

Bingo! This is an obvious one but don't forget to use thread tape. It will eventually leak if you don't.

poohbear · 03-03-2023, 08:29 AM

I find it ubsurd Jayco would run an exposed propane line made out of rubber on the outside bottom.
I would use 3/8 copper & flair fittings or if space permits a piece of black pipe straight across. If OP doesn't have the skill/comfort level then any propane dealer or local plumber could do this.

Flashdman11 · 03-03-2023, 09:34 AM

Mine was also at the back so I disconnected it back to around the wheel well and then ran it across to underbelly and connected wherever I could with the same connectors the minimum wage factory workers did (LOL @ TaftCoach). Haven't had any issues.

craigav · 03-03-2023, 10:04 AM

If you use teflon tape, be sure use the "Yellow" teflon tape as it is designed for LP/Natural Gas usage (higher density product). I would use Rectorseal instead though. ~CA

The Gritz Carlton · 03-03-2023, 10:11 AM

Stop by one of the wholesale LP terminals and see if they can make the line for you with their crimping tools, etc. I've had several lines custom made by one of them. They might even install it for you pretty reasonable.

Skyline · 03-08-2023, 01:25 PM

Get an extension hose on Amazon and leave it where it is.

Skyline · 03-08-2023, 01:32 PM

Amazon has a 24’ quick connect extension hose for $30.

29BHS ECO · 03-08-2023, 04:32 PM

I just disconnected the rubber line from where Jayco mounted it as far back as I needed, remounted it with the clips Jayco used, tech screwed the quick disconnect back where I wanted ----bing bang all done

Skyline · 03-08-2023, 04:53 PM

I like to put my grill on the picnic table. I have a “table top” grill. I have a 24’ extension line plus 6’ line that came with my grill. This works great for most campsites. I keep my grill and gas line in a plastic tote with a lid and handles. At night when the grill is not in use I put the plastic tote upside down on the grill in case of rain overnight.

garywilson · 03-08-2023, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poohbear

I find it ubsurd Jayco would run an exposed propane line made out of rubber on the outside bottom.
I would use 3/8 copper & flair fittings or if space permits a piece of black pipe straight across. If OP doesn't have the skill/comfort level then any propane dealer or local plumber could do this.

x2 for the black pipe.

My Brother In-Law's dog chewed through his primary rubber hose. Fortunately there was a good breeze blowing and no sparks. A trip to a big box store for parts on the road. Another trip when he got home for fence parts.

My trailer has black pipe on the outside of the coroplast.

muckinfuss · 03-09-2023, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry713

Bingo! This is an obvious one but don't forget to use thread tape. It will eventually leak if you don't.

Like Craig pointed out above: Yellow is the only certified tape for propane/nat gas use and will state as much on the packaging. Or, use a propane pipe dope like Everseal 183. Look closely at the existing fittings and you will see evidence of dope being used... There is an International Gas Fitting Code that certified installers follow...it requires sealers that are certified for gas use to prevent booms and fires from leakage. Those sealers are also responsible for how hard it is to remove fittings!

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