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Old 10-17-2020, 12:49 PM   #1
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Moving leaf spring mounts to lower position

Hi all,
I've got a 2018 Eagle HT 28.5 RSTS. I want to move the leaf spring mounts to the lower mounting holes. Has anyone done this themselves? The reason I ask, is I was working on the right hand side and I got the bolt out and moved to the lower position, but I'm having difficulty getting the knurled part of the bolt seated into the hole. I've hit it with a hammer. Used an air hammer to try and push it in. I've even heated the bracket with a small propane torch and the best I can get is about 1/16 inch gap. But I can't get it seated all the way. Just wondering if anyone has been successful at pulling this off themselves.
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Old 10-17-2020, 01:23 PM   #2
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Yes. I did this on my 2020 HT recently. Once you get the bolt in to the point where the splines contact the hanger, you should be able to put the nut on the thread, as you tighten it the splines will be forced into the hole on the hanger. The trick is to use a good wrench on the bolt so it does not spin while you use another good, long wrench to tighten the nut. It will draw it in and bottom out on the shoulder of the bolt. The reason it's hard is you are drawing the splines into the hanger for the first time.

I would also recommend bolting a spacer into the hanger at the upper hole where the old bolt location was. You can purchase them, but I made my own with steel tubing. The reason for this is to help prevent the hanger from bending from the stress of the lower hole position. You can look at the Lippert Correct Track instruction videos to see what this part does.
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Old 10-17-2020, 02:26 PM   #3
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Hi Nature Ist,
I actually tried that and I broke the bolt. I think I'm going to take this opportunity to replace them all with wet bolts. Thank you for the suggestion of the spacer. I hadn't thought of that. I'm thinking when I get the new bolts, I will lube the knurled portion to see if I can get it in that way.
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Old 10-17-2020, 02:43 PM   #4
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If you didn't have wet-bolts then it would absolutely be good to replace all of them with wet-bolts; and the bushings as well. Go with bronze bushings.
If you broke one of the bolts, I guess you did have a big enough wrench!! LOL.
Another thing to be careful about is that when you draw in the splined end, don't let it squeeze the hanger so it is too tight against the springs. I sometimes use a metal shim or spacer (between the hanger and spring on each side) to keep the hanger straight and the space around the spring the same.
I also install the Zerk end of the new bolts facing the center of the trailer so I can add grease without having to remove the wheels. It's easier to crawl under than to remove 4 wheels!
Though not likely worn yet, also check your spring shackle links for elongation of the holes. The factory links are not very heavy duty, and wear quickly. It's not much work to change them while you're changing to wet-bolts. You might as well do all 14 bolts, bushings, and the 8 links while you're at it!
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2020 Eagle HT 30.5 CKTS (16" wheels, spring shackles set on lower hole of frame, SumoSprings TSS-107-40, standard kingpin, B&W Companion slider)
2019 F250 SRW SuperCab 4X4 SB 6.2 (10,000# GVW) 3.73 Axle 18" wheels TST-507 TPMS
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Old 10-17-2020, 03:13 PM   #5
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You don't happen to be from Lakewood, CO do you?
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2020 Eagle HT 30.5 CKTS (16" wheels, spring shackles set on lower hole of frame, SumoSprings TSS-107-40, standard kingpin, B&W Companion slider)
2019 F250 SRW SuperCab 4X4 SB 6.2 (10,000# GVW) 3.73 Axle 18" wheels TST-507 TPMS
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Old 10-17-2020, 03:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nature Ist View Post
If you didn't have wet-bolts then it would absolutely be good to replace all of them with wet-bolts; and the bushings as well. Go with bronze bushings.
If you broke one of the bolts, I guess you did have a big enough wrench!! LOL.
Another thing to be careful about is that when you draw in the splined end, don't let it squeeze the hanger so it is too tight against the springs. I sometimes use a metal shim or spacer (between the hanger and spring on each side) to keep the hanger straight and the space around the spring the same.
I also install the Zerk end of the new bolts facing the center of the trailer so I can add grease without having to remove the wheels. It's easier to crawl under than to remove 4 wheels!
Though not likely worn yet, also check your spring shackle links for elongation of the holes. The factory links are not very heavy duty, and wear quickly. It's not much work to change them while you're changing to wet-bolts. You might as well do all 14 bolts, bushings, and the 8 links while you're at it!
X2 on the shackle links, my holes were significantly elongated after less than 2,000 miles. I replaced them while putting on disc brakes.
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Old 10-17-2020, 04:05 PM   #7
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No Lakewood California
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