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Old 07-24-2012, 08:16 AM   #21
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Interesting you have a full size unit in the bedroom it says we need a low profile unit ( the polar mach units)..

Mike
The front unit is a 13.5K and the back is a 15K
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:10 AM   #22
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I ordered our 2012 365BHS with both AC's and have to say if they would have 110v overhead in the rear bedroom, I would be adding a 3rd AC back there. Our permanant site has no shade and with the 100* temps we've had over the past 6 weeks, both units run all day long and struggle to get the inside below 84* until after 7pm. Another 13.5k AC would help alot.
I just got back from a 20 day trip and with temps in the high 90's several days my one 15K unit did quite well. Sure the day temps in the unit were in the low 70's and at night it was in the high 60's you could definitely feel the difference between outside and inside. My mods I am certain have helped in keeping the unit cooler and also I was in partial shaded spots at both CG. The mods I have done are first adding an additional vent in the bunkhouse which does help. Second and what I felt was a major help was a mod to the artic chill grill covering. The air flows out of the unit and is then forced to the ducts but not guided in anyway. Turbulance is the enemy there which I eliminated by installing a ramp made out of flashing. The ramp is a simple mod that divides the airflow as it comes down from the unit and then guides it into the ducts on both sides. When I put this in construction debris started flying out of the bunk house vent (this was before I put in the second vent) so I knew I did something better. You could feel the cold air blowing on your face in the bottom bunk. Another mod I did was the screen door plexi glass and auto closer springs. My kids would never close the door behind them and being in and out of the unit over and over just killed the cooling effects of the A/C. Now it does it on it's own every time. Best $7.00 bucks I spent so far.

All these things added up to keeping my unit colder and more comfortable overall. If I had the second BR unit I am sure my unit would have been even colder. I kept only the plexi door closed during the day unless we were away from the unit then I closed the hard door and the unit was colder during the heat of the day.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:17 AM   #23
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3' Senough, do you have any pictures of your mods? Also I noticed my screen door has the latches for the plexi glass inserts. Did you get it from the dealer or a hardware store?
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:35 PM   #24
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Air Conditioner Leak Check

Check this thread out in the problems section and you will see the pictures I posted of the mod. I have since taped that up to seal the sides and then I taped it fully into the duct opening so no air is going past the ceiling plate at all. My quick cool vents are not functional at all as a result, but are not needed. The second vent was cut in using my roto zip. A dremel will do the same thing. Your can feel the inside of your ducts which are rectanglar in shape and about 7-8" wide. Unscrew the rear vent and feel around to where it ends then you can cut in the new vent. Make sure if you do it that the tool septh is set shallow so you don't go through the insulation up above it. I picked up the exact one Jayco uses on Ebay for $12.00 with FS. It looks factory and can be closed should I need to and pivots like factory. The result is more airflow to the bunk house.

I used dryer tape which is a metalic tape to smooth out the rough areas surrounding my AC unit to direct the air more smoothly. The ducts being rectangular don't help too much in flow so every little bit helps.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:39 PM   #25
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just the way I see things,you allways are buying things that make it look good to the next owner.here in the southern states 2 ac's are simply a MUST on the bigger RV's period.I dont allways need to run both but when you need em you need em.
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:06 PM   #26
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My rig has the regular size 13,5 btu front ac. I think the cost is much lower. Only difference is the couple extra inches extra height.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:20 PM   #27
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Both mine are 13.5K's. The front added nothing to the overall height because the bunkhouse model roof is level without slope.
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:49 PM   #28
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I agree that 2nd air is one of the best things we did. There is nothing worse to me than not being able to rest because it is too umcomfortable to sleep
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:49 PM   #29
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I have read this thread with great interest. Kitty and I took delivery of a 2012 31.5 FBHS in March. In July we discovered the fact that, in the southern states, one has to have a second AC unit. Too bad, Jayco does not offer a 2nd AC unit for the 31.5 FBHS. I will have a 2nd unit installed before next summer. My plan is to install it up front in the bunkhouse room. There will be electrical issues I will have to work through, but I think it can be done. Anyone have any input?

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Old 10-14-2012, 09:07 PM   #30
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I think that I saw that the 2013 FBHS has a 50A option which is intended for a second A/C.
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50-amp service with 2nd A/C prep (standard 30.5BHLT, 31.5RLDS, 31.5RLTS and 33.5QBDS)
So Jayco certainly saw the issue. Now of course, if you don't have the 50A what do you do? Well, the biggest issue will be that your vent is not wired or ducted for a second A/C (likely). The ducting you can get around with using a non-ducted unit, but the wiring....

I have seen that some people will run a separate 20A wire and receptacle solely for the second A/C. This I would think, would be pretty straight forward, but a little difficult to run. Of course the other option, much more involved, is to run a wire to the electrical panel and convert from 30A to 50A. Either way, there are posts which detail the installation.

Honestly, I don't think that it should even be an option, 50A should be standard on all trailers over 30'.
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