New 31.5 RLDS

skypilot7103 · 10-06-2010, 06:16 PM

New 31.5 RLDS received with brass nut at gas line cracked at black pipe connection, lost 30lb. of propane on way home from dealer. Has anyone had this problem. Looked like it was over torqued at factory. Upon inspection by owner me, the brass nut was cracked all the way through. Also leaking regulator and hose attached to regulator.

Denise · 10-06-2010, 07:00 PM

Wow! What a horrible way to get going on a new 5'er! Sorry to hear you had that happen and what a sucky thing to start your new Jayco warranty 'fix-it' list with!!! We didn't have this issue with our tt, but welcome to the Jayco Owners Forum and glad you found us for support!! Definitely let us know what happens with this issue

hammer · 10-07-2010, 04:51 AM

Good choice skypilot we have the same unit and love it.

Lthorp · 10-07-2010, 07:57 AM

I also have a new 351 RLTS unit. I have not noticed an issue with the nuts but will definitely check them. What I have had is an issue with blowing the fuse to the front leg extenders. That fuse and wiring is right there with the propane bottles. It makes me very nervous to have an electrical problem inches away from the propane.

Gone Camping · 10-07-2010, 12:38 PM

Congrats on the purchase. I had the same problem on my 05 Eagle. Brass and steel don't mix well.

Bob Landry · 10-07-2010, 03:45 PM

If it's it the nut on the end of the rubbber hose from the regulator, that's a swivel flare nut and is integral with the hose. Replacing the hose will fix that. It's possible it was overtorqued at manufacturing, but it must have been a pretty healthy guy to crack it. I've done a lot of flared connections for ACs and propane and have never broken one. The swivel flare nut screws onto a union that is a flare connection on one side and a pipe thread on the other end going into a section of black pipe. The pipe thread end gets teflon tape(yellow for gas) and the swivel flare is connected "clean" and is just tightened until it doesn't leak. Soap solution will help there. I removed the flare/pipe section on mine and replaced it with a "T" so I could add a low pressure line for a gas grill. The end of the copper tubing has a quick-connect and a manual shut-off valve on it.

RR Conductor · 10-07-2010, 04:22 PM

I had the brass fitting where the gas line turns up in the rear for an outside grill crack. Same results as you, lost a bunch of propane though not as much as I discovered the problem at a rest stop (smelled the gas) and turned the gas off. There was a dealer within 30 +/- miles so we pulled there and they got right on it and replaced the fitting and refilled my propane tank for free as the trailer was only a year old and still under warranty. I asked if they'd seen this happen before and the tech said "yep, worked on about half a dozen so far with the same problem" (this was last year [spring of 2009]). So far I haven't experienced any more trouble but if I do the entire line going to the rear grill will be removed and capped off, if possible since I don't use an outside gas grill. All that may well change especially having just said I don't use 'em.

Here's hoping you don't have any further trouble either.

Bob Landry · 10-07-2010, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gone Camping

Congrats on the purchase. I had the same problem on my 05 Eagle. Brass and steel don't mix well.

Mixing brass and steel is quite common on LP and natural gas configurations. There's really no issue with it since you aren't in a salt/marine environment where you have to deal with electrolysis with dis-similar metals.

skypilot7103 · 10-07-2010, 06:55 PM

Thanks for all the great input, I repleaced the brass nut to the black pipe off of the main line, that took care of the major leak, but unit also was leaking at the regulator and line to it. The dealer did the nanometer check on the interior but did not find the regulator leak until I had them pressurize the system and close both tanks. The regulator would bleed down to the red inicator in two and a half hours. The nanometer would not show the leak from the tank to the regulator only inside the unit, because of the valve in the regulator. The dealer had trouble believeing I had a leak outside but you could smell lp at the regulator. He tried to tell me that it was coming out the vent but it should not vent unless you have a bad diapharm or a relief pressure problem. The dealer offered to send two tech's to the house but I told him I would return unit to dealer for what they charge for visit. They said ok, $75 hook up and $3.50 a mile. Received the check today. Only had the unit home for one day when all the trouble occured. Thank you for all concerned I had a pickup camper explode on me in 1983 and I still have scars to prove it. Please never take LP for granted.

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