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Old 07-31-2013, 08:12 PM   #11
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If you don't want to make the wood pieces to fill the holes in the face frame you can use the oversized wooden bbq skewers that look like giant toothpicks that you can buy, they are about 1/8 to 3/16" in diameter. Push them in and cut them off. Sometimes snapping them just pulls the piece out due to their flexibility. They shouldn't split the face frame if they are slightly oversized. It is important to push or tap them in the full depth of the screw and hole. There is only one screw per hinge but because of the weight of the doors it helps if your assistant holds them while you re install. There is a slot where the screw fits through the hinge so you can adjust the right to left alignment to cover the face frame opening symmetrical. Also check the piston position before you remove the overhead doors. When the installers put the doors in the sometime missed the center of the face frame thickness and when the door closes it lifts the top of the door away from the face frame causing the piston mount and hinge screws to strip. Jayco should be using button head screws that have a flat bottom to properly hold the hinges in place. Instead they use a screw that has a tapered bottom side that allows the hinge to move and distorts the slot and bends the metal at that point. In some of the doors the installer obviously realized the screw was stripped and put in a second one that split the face frame.If you over apply the glue just wipe it off with a rag. If need be use a damp rag to clean the sash where the glue might bleed out. Glad to help.
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:06 PM   #12
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So stick with one screw per hinge as to not run the risk of splitting the frame?
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:20 AM   #13
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To prevent splitting wood, in general, you can drill a pilot hole with a smaller diameter drill bit. That way there is a minimum of intrusion with the screws that close together. You would think that the particle board core wouldn't split but mine did when the second one was put in at the factory. Also the tapered bottom of the screw head will split the wood if it distorts the slot enough, from over torquing. The solution would be to replace the screws with flat bottom heads. I think that after I filled the holes with a wooden plug and glue it would not require a second screw.
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:53 AM   #14
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I had one of our overhead cabinets do the same. I purchased an epoxy wood filler, like this.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...8&site=ROCKLER

It worked like a charm, was an easy fix and has lasted us over a year.

Hope this helps.

Mary Anne
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:47 PM   #15
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When my cabinet doors pulled out of the wood, I used match sticks, with some Guerrilla glue.

You have to be careful because you have to wet the match sticks, and the glue foams by design. This will fill any void around the screw and match stick, so you want to make sure not to use enough that it will seep out of the hole around the screw and get on anything.
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