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Old 01-14-2021, 07:26 AM   #21
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Glad to hear you have heat! anything possible, You could just had a loose connection? did you clean the sail switch before reinstall? As for electric heaters, there safe,Just don't use a extension cord with them
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Old 01-16-2021, 02:11 PM   #22
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Turn your thermostat up and wiggle the wires near the furnace. Cold be a loose scoth lock. That was my issue.
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Old 01-16-2021, 04:42 PM   #23
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Just watched a video of changing the sail switch. It was on a FW that u could access it from the outside. I really annoys me to save a dollar Jayco did not put a heater access panel on the outside. My rat nest basement would be a major job to get the heater out to open it up. With all the wires, ducts and plumbing everywhere you will mess something up just getting to it. And a simple 10 min sail switch job turns into an all day adventure if u do not break anything else.
Just replaced the last two valves on my nautilus water center. Same thing, u think the lines could of been just an inch longer so u would not have to take them all off to get to two lines.
Everytime I pull the basement wall down I shake my head and pray just like when I hit the schwintec kitchen slide button.
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Old 01-16-2021, 04:49 PM   #24
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HEAT UPDATE!
Called dometic yesterday. They sent me a service manual for my furnace.
A buddy came over tonight with his fluke. We started troubleshooting and found that we have sufficient power to the board in the furnace. What a Pita it was to get the furnace out. Makes me wish I had an access panel on the side of the camper. Didn't find any debris in the unit itself. We were able to spin the fan too. This is weird but after dying all this, we turned the heat on and it works like it should. It's it possible that maybe the sail switch was stuck?

Jason
Just a guess that a loose could be a problem also some motors when you spin them they start the next time because of a dead spot in the armature. When the motor stops in the dead spot it will not start and the motor would need to be spun to get it off the dead spot. Bad motor if this happens
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Old 01-16-2021, 04:52 PM   #25
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Or you got a bad connection at a scotch lock
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Old 01-16-2021, 05:17 PM   #26
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Rock, just buy the outside door and install (safes a lot of grief), is available as an accessory
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Old 01-16-2021, 05:19 PM   #27
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If the sail switch was bad you would still hear the blower come on for a short time.

So if the blower did not come on. The problem was before that. My guess is a loose connection that got fixed when the heater went back in.

If it happens again try wiggling each wire to possibly find the culprit.
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Old 01-16-2021, 05:55 PM   #28
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Not for nothing, but I believe some folks have had to replace the “secret” reset switch and it fixed their problem.
I have to ask. What is and where is the "secret reset switch"? I really would appreciate a reply from those of you in the know. I have a news 2020 29RKS that is awaiting a new AC unit and fully expect there will be more issues.
Thanks and regards, Rick AKA CBCOCRBO
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Old 01-16-2021, 05:59 PM   #29
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I have to ask. What is and where is the "secret reset switch"? I really would appreciate a reply from those of you in the know. I have a news 2020 29RKS that is awaiting a new AC unit and fully expect there will be more issues.
Thanks and regards, Rick AKA CBCOCRBO
On my unit you have to access the furnace thru the basement. On the very top, back corner is where the reset switch is. I have to stick my arm in blind on the top and reach for it.
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:17 PM   #30
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Rock, just buy the outside door and install (safes a lot of grief), is available as an accessory
U cannot just do that. The sidewall is a bonded wall u have to cut it out to even install an access door. Looking at the heater in the basement it is in a metal enclosure. What I seen was a panel held in with four screws. U
Pull off the door panel and it exposed the heater with all the wires and circuit board. It was just a panel that removed opened the heater up to the working side. Kinda like opening the water heater and having access to all the working stuff. The heater exhaust vent was part of the panel.
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:26 PM   #31
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On my unit you have to access the furnace thru the basement. On the very top, back corner is where the reset switch is. I have to stick my arm in blind on the top and reach for it.
Mine I cannot even reach with my arm after removing the one access panel on the basement wall. I would have to use a pole to get to it or remove the entire basement wall and crawl in to get to it.
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Old 01-16-2021, 08:14 PM   #32
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Rock everything is possible, once you put your mind to it - I still work seasonal in this industry.
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Old 01-16-2021, 08:28 PM   #33
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I would love to do that. There is already numerous issues with cracking around slides. To cut thru the wall to do this could cause a major issue in the structure. I have two years left on my extended warranty and if my schwintec fails again my unit is gone. I have my summer camp site and booked two weeks at and around Yellowstone. All I think of is my slide gonna open and close. Tell me this is not BS on a costly FW to deal with that. By the way I am a retired USCG Master Chief Aviation Structural Mechanic. So that is why i will not cut thru the laminated sidewall.
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Old 01-19-2021, 02:16 PM   #34
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Make sure the fan is on AUTO and not just ON.
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