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Old 08-29-2017, 09:21 AM   #1
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No nuts on bolts holing water tank

I posted this in an earlier thread about my water tank falling out but I think this is too important not to be brought up again.

If you go through the trap door through the under belly you cans see the way the water tank is held in place. There are screws that go through the support and through a hole in the part of the frame. There are no huts or lock washers. These screws will fall out after time. On my unit 4 of the screws had fallen out and the other 4 were loose. I replaced all 8 with bolts nuts and lock washers.

Everyone who owns a Jayco 5th should check this, mine is a 2014. Its no fun repairing a full water tank that has fallen through the underbelly and crushed the drain hoses.
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Old 08-29-2017, 10:35 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by scott23.5rbs View Post
I posted this in an earlier thread about my water tank falling out but I think this is too important not to be brought up again.

If you go through the trap door through the under belly you cans see the way the water tank is held in place. There are screws that go through the support and through a hole in the part of the frame. There are no huts or lock washers. These screws will fall out after time. On my unit 4 of the screws had fallen out and the other 4 were loose. I replaced all 8 with bolts nuts and lock washers.

Everyone who owns a Jayco 5th should check this, mine is a 2014. Its no fun repairing a full water tank that has fallen through the underbelly and crushed the drain hoses.
...Sigh...
Well my conscience is not going to let me shirk my responsibility to make sure my travel trailer is not going to injure others on the highway. I guess this winter I am going to have to do what Jayco should have, and take off the underbelly and inspect these tanks.
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Old 08-29-2017, 12:33 PM   #3
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Good thinking DanNJanice, I have done mine last year when the belly was removed for insulation.

In 2012 the had still 3 steel 1/8 x 2" straps on the Jay Flight 198RD and where bolted on cross members, seems like they are cutting corners. A couple of woodscrews will never hold that weight, special on moving vehicles. And it is also soft lumber they use for floor joist in the flooring.
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:55 PM   #4
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Good thinking DanNJanice, I have done mine last year when the belly was removed for insulation.

In 2012 the had still 3 steel 1/8 x 2" straps on the Jay Flight 198RD and where bolted on cross members, seems like they are cutting corners. A couple of woodscrews will never hold that weight, special on moving vehicles. And it is also soft lumber they use for floor joist in the flooring.
When you insulated your underbelly, how did you go about that and what type of insulation did you use? That is an intriguing idea.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:54 PM   #5
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Once when rented a motorhome the weather suddenly turned to freezing and couldn't dump my tanks, not before I went to shop to get thawed out. So this never would happen again and we use the Jay Feather during winter.
R12 regular house insulation (24x48"), we camped in minus 15 C (+/- )F), put an extra heat duct for the Grey and black tank plus heat tape around the discharge pipe. Have a 3000 watt onboard inverter and a 3000 watt generator/inverter for backup. Either one I can use during travelling.

When tighten the underbelly Polyflex use a cable puller and clamp the front (or back) between 3/4 wood. Use the same old screw holes to fasten the underbelly by poking for the hole. I used Gorilla Tape for sealing everything (clean the poly with thinner first).
I also put in some extra cross-members because they were to far apart (mfg. had them to far apart)
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2005 Jayco Jay Feather LGT - 29Y GVWR-7000 lbs.
Dexter Axle Lift 4-9/16" - installed with sub-frame.
Pro Series 1200 lbs. WDH with Double Sway Bar.
Champion 3100/2800 watt Inverter/Generator-Onboard Solar Power
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