North Point 377 RLBH disc brake conversion - Page 6

Mopar_Earl · 10-19-2018, 03:33 PM

Don't forgot to burnished the brakes in. Also if you replace that hose with 1/4" tubing that will improve the response time. You can't remove all the delay. The motor takes time to spin up to build pressure. But running true 1/4" from the actuator and main will improve it. Also the closer to the axles the more improved the response is.

One thing I'm pondering when I do mine is trying a 2 psi residual valve right off the actuator. This would maintain 2 psi and would help improve response.

Earl

Magnolia Tom · 10-19-2018, 03:47 PM

Thanks for the tips Earl

My setup actually has 1/4” hard line from the actuator to the “t’s”. I’ll need to see how the system performs in real driving situations before I determine if I need to replace the hoses with hard lines.

jasum · 10-20-2018, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Thanks Jack. Your turn now! [emoji3]

I'm working on it Tom.........

After doing over 7K miles out west in September there were a couple of times they would have been great to have. Hoping can do before going to California next year.

Magnolia Tom · 10-21-2018, 12:58 PM

Got finished bleeding the actuator and the lines again. Took it around the block a couple times and the delay has definitely gotten better. Now maybe 1/4 second. If I count one one thousand when I depress the slide control on the brake controller, it engages before I finish saying “one”.

Normal braking feels seamless. I did do one emergency stop going 35 and I was very impressed with the performance. In fact, there’s a pretty good skid mark in the road from the trailer tires. Very happy camper [emoji3]

klassic · 10-21-2018, 03:44 PM

I can put my controller at 10, pull the trigger and still drive it to the campsite.

Mopar_Earl · 10-21-2018, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klassic

I can put my controller at 10, pull the trigger and still drive it to the campsite.

Sounds like my trailer at 14 setting. Lol

Earl

Mopar_Earl · 10-21-2018, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Got finished bleeding the actuator and the lines again. Took it around the block a couple times and the delay has definitely gotten better. Now maybe 1/4 second. If I count one one thousand when I depress the slide control on the brake controller, it engages before I finish saying “one”.

Normal braking feels seamless. I did do one emergency stop going 35 and I was very impressed with the performance. In fact, there’s a pretty good skid mark in the road from the trailer tires. Very happy camper [emoji3]

Good to hear. Did you perform a burnish procedure? That should increase the braking performance a lot.

On good working correctly electric brakes there is a delay too if you pay attention. The time it takes for the magnets to grab the drum and move the lever to push the shoes out.

Earl

Magnolia Tom · 10-21-2018, 05:03 PM

Earl

My burnishing consisted of making stops at 10, 20, and 30 mph. There wasn’t any instructions with the kit so I just did a bunch of low speed stops. I started with brake controller at 9.5. By the end, I have them at 7.5.

Mopar_Earl · 10-21-2018, 05:12 PM

You were pretty close. Here is a common method from Raybestos.

Subject: Brake Pad Burnishing
Vehicle Involved: All Normal “Street” vehicles
Condition: After replacing brake pads
Repair Procedure: When replacing brake pads, a “break-in” or “burnishing” procedure is recommended to properly condition both the brake pads and brake rotors for best service and long life.
The burnish process, if done correctly, does at least three things to the pads and/or the rotor:
1. Physically and thermally converts the composition of the pad and/or rotor surfaces.
2. Smoothes the asperities (roughness, unevenness) of the mating surfaces.
3. Heat cycles the entire pad structure.
For “normal” street service 8 to 10 moderate applications from 40-10 mph is sufficient. Then allow the brakes to cool for at least 15 minutes either by parking the vehicle or continuing to drive at moderate speeds with minimal brake applications.

Earl

PlayersZ28 · 10-21-2018, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klassic

I can put my controller at 10, pull the trigger and still drive it to the campsite.

How do you do a hookup test?

A couple of times I had the breakaway lanyard get caught up on the bikes laying in the bed and on a tight turn in a parking lot it tripped and stopped me dead @ 10mph. First time I thought I'd run into something.

PlayersZ28 · 10-21-2018, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

You were pretty close. Here is a common method from Raybestos.

Subject: Brake Pad Burnishing
Vehicle Involved: All Normal “Street” vehicles
Condition: After replacing brake pads
Repair Procedure: When replacing brake pads, a “break-in” or “burnishing” procedure is recommended to properly condition both the brake pads and brake rotors for best service and long life.
The burnish process, if done correctly, does at least three things to the pads and/or the rotor:
1. Physically and thermally converts the composition of the pad and/or rotor surfaces.
2. Smoothes the asperities (roughness, unevenness) of the mating surfaces.
3. Heat cycles the entire pad structure.
For “normal” street service 8 to 10 moderate applications from 40-10 mph is sufficient. Then allow the brakes to cool for at least 15 minutes either by parking the vehicle or continuing to drive at moderate speeds with minimal brake applications.

Earl

That's essentially what I do every time I do a pad/rotor job on one of my vehicles. Half a dozen runs from 45-50mph down to 20mph or so with moderate braking pressure.

Magnolia Tom · 10-21-2018, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PlayersZ28

How do you do a hookup test?

A couple of times I had the breakaway lanyard get caught up on the bikes laying in the bed and on a tight turn in a parking lot it tripped and stopped me dead @ 10mph. First time I thought I'd run into something.

Lol! That’s the point. His brakes suck.

klassic · 10-21-2018, 08:44 PM

There is no chance my brakes can stop me dead. They have been completely replaced once and the back axel twice.

Magnolia Tom · 10-21-2018, 08:47 PM

So Klassic, when are you doing the upgrade? [emoji23][emoji23]

klassic · 10-22-2018, 04:37 AM

When the Canadian dollar is worth more than your dollar.

PlayersZ28 · 10-22-2018, 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klassic

When the Canadian dollar is worth more than your dollar.

Haha, good luck with that one, might be a very long wait

I'm fully stocked on US$ though from back when I was paying 0.95-1.05 per so I prefer it when the C$ goes down.

klassic · 10-22-2018, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PlayersZ28

Haha, good luck with that one, might be a very long wait

I'm fully stocked on US$ though from back when I was paying 0.95-1.05 per so I prefer it when the C$ goes down.

That’s when I bough my SOB.
I kept thinking I should by a boat load of US bills, I didnt. I’m just dumb.
Then my buddy tells me to buy Bitcoins when they were around $500....I failed again.

Magnolia Tom · 10-23-2018, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klassic

There is no chance my brakes can stop me dead. They have been completely replaced once and the back axel twice.

Saw something interesting that could be a possible explanation for your poor braking

Might explain a lot of our problems with electric brakes

Check out this video
https://youtu.be/UPhhT_383-4

klassic · 10-23-2018, 08:57 AM

I wish I would have taken the old brakes the dealer replaced.

PlayersZ28 · 10-23-2018, 09:42 AM

Last time I had my wheels in the air I tried rotating them one at a time with the controller maxed. All locked up to where I couldn't turn them by hand. When I hook up I max the controller and then put the truck in drive (front legs just off the ground) and I've never been able to pull the trailer at idle or with a small throttle blip.

You may also like: