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Old 01-08-2016, 04:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by DocBrown View Post
I certainly don't want to come off as offensive, but considering you just spent a pretty good chunk of cash on the trailer what's another $150? It's less than 1/2 of a percent of what you have already spent.
Point made and we need to move on. But remember, $150 here and $150 there and pretty soon we're into some serious money.

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Old 01-08-2016, 04:26 PM   #22
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Being a bit frugal myself I think it is a legitimate concern and question. If its not necessary then no need to spend the extra $. It all depends what you want to do with it. I just leave mine plugged into a 15 amp house recept, but I only run a few low draw items at most.

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Old 01-08-2016, 06:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Raugustin View Post
Hi Ericrom,

I had a #10 4wire circuit installed in my garage for my 30 amp pull trailer and it only used 3 wires. When we upgraded to the Pinnacle I simply installed a 30ampduplex breaker and energized both circuits and installed a 50 outlet in place of the 30 amp. the difference is that you now have 30amps available on each line which will provide 60amps of power to the coach. I can run everything in the trailer, however, I only have one AC.
Did that pass any kind of electrical code inspection?
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Old 01-08-2016, 07:36 PM   #24
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95% of the time I just keep it plugged in to keep the battery charge. I do like to run the a/c sometimes prior to loading and we have used it once to house guest (our previous TT which was 30 amp which I had just plugged into a garage outlet).
$150 ($250 for the 30amp and $400 for the 50amp installed)is not that bad but I will also have to buy a 50ft extension cord of 50amp which will be another $200. Right now I put the 5ver in two different spots (it's on my sons basketball court during the winter to sit on a solid surface) in my yard until I do a stone pad in the future. Both spots are not close to the house so I will have to run an extension cord or two to the outlet. I just had a thought and not sure if it could be hooked directly into the main box in the garage which if that is the case it will be a lot cheaper. Will have to check with the electrician.

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Old 01-10-2016, 09:47 AM   #25
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I bought my house new and went with a 30 amp plug because had a 30 amp TT. Now I have a 36KTPS and wish I had the 50 amp. It will cost me over $200.00 to switch it out. That is if I do it myself. I am an electronics technicain so it is doable for me but if I hire an electrician it would be at least $1,000. I only regret it in the summer time. when we are loading, unloading, and the wife is complaining about how hot it is when cleaning after a trip.
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Old 01-10-2016, 10:23 AM   #26
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If you are going to spend $150 to add a 50 amp outlet, I'd make dang sure it is only wired for 110 volts single phase before I ever plugged 'er in!!
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Old 01-10-2016, 12:01 PM   #27
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The wires are protected by dual 30 amp breaker even thought the plug is a 50 amp plug I can only supply 30 amps on each line for a total of 60 amps. It works great, never had an issue and it will supply enough power for everything in the coach. If I had 2 AC units then I would have to think about limiting some concurrent high draw appliances but I still find it hard to believe that I would ever draw a sustained load over 60 amps using this trailer.

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Old 01-11-2016, 11:35 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by dalengail View Post
If you are going to spend $150 to add a 50 amp outlet, I'd make dang sure it is only wired for 110 volts single phase before I ever plugged 'er in!!
I checked mine immediately with a volt meter to be sure it was wired correctly. Trust, but verify.

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Old 01-11-2016, 12:51 PM   #29
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Technically the service to a 50A RV outlet is 120/240 VAC Single Phase.

Measuring the voltage from 1 leg to Neutral is 120V. Measuring the voltage across both hot legs is 240V.


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