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Old 08-27-2017, 06:44 PM   #21
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After looking at how degraded the Moryde CRS 3000 got, I did not trust the units (both sides) any more. So I replaced the RV Industry selected cheap Moryde 3000s on my Jayco 5th wheel with the Dexter EZ-Flex Rubber Suspension system. The shackles are significantly more robust, with grease serks and well built. Sad the RV manufactures keep using cheap junk in their manufacturing process. Let's see, I have replaced the roof, plumbing, water pump, Schwintek slide motors and suspension on my 2011 Jayco 5th wheel. Nothing under warranty. Why don't I just get a new replacement? The new trailers are made even cheaper. I was sold the trailer new with grey and black tanks 50% smaller than advertised at time of sale, china bomb tires started failing at 150 miles and was completely ignored about these claims. How can anyone trust what the RV manufactures are producing much less trying to get a warranty claim. Welcome to the true RV world.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:14 AM   #22
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Re: Fire Como's comments - agree with the issues, similar to the 1970's auto industry. RV manufactures will not change until the consumer refuses / stop buying their product and or starts a class action law suit. Just my thought...........
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Old 08-30-2017, 07:44 AM   #23
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Could someone post a photo showing where the nylon bushing is located at? I hear the same clicking noise when I go to level my 2016 27.5 RLTS Eagle HT fifther.

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Old 08-30-2017, 08:33 AM   #24
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3000 suspension

Quote:
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Could someone post a photo showing where the nylon bushing is located at? I hear the same clicking noise when I go to level my 2016 27.5 RLTS Eagle HT fifther.

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Attached is pic I am taking my 16 Eagle 321 RSTS to have warranty on suspension and ten other items!
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Inside shackle ok.jpg  
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Old 08-30-2017, 02:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Could someone post a photo showing where the nylon bushing is located at? I hear the same clicking noise when I go to level my 2016 27.5 RLTS Eagle HT fifther.

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No picture, but the nylon bushings are in the eyes of the leaf springs. Once you take your suspension apart, it will be in the leaf spring hole that the bolt went through. The brass bushings go in the hole in it's place.
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Old 08-30-2017, 04:04 PM   #26
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Can you explain how to replace the nylon washer? Like the tools required? Thanks in advance.

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Old 08-30-2017, 04:11 PM   #27
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Can you explain how to replace the nylon washer? Like the tools required? Thanks in advance.

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Ball joint remover- bought mine on amazon. $49.85 Put a bolt(head diameter greater then bushing diameter) thru bushing and press in - easy !
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Old 08-30-2017, 05:02 PM   #28
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Can you explain how to replace the nylon washer? Like the tools required? Thanks in advance.

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This may help a bit (Pictures from mine):

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f6...tml#post558740

On my Jayco, the Nylon Bushings were only present in the eyes of the leaf springs. The three holes in each of the MorRyde 3000 "equalizers", already had brass bushing installed from the factory.

If you want to replace the plastic bushings, you have two choices:
1. Most decent RV dealers will have replacement plastic bushings
2. Brass Bushings with a greasable bolt

I would suggest adding a wet bolt kit. This comes with brass bushings, new bolts that are drilled and have grease zerks for maintenance greasing and much thicker shackle links (I had one that was broke and several that were headed to broke). I ordered and installed U012-016 purchased from Amazon.

To replace the bushings
Support the trailer and remove tires (I did one side at a time)
Support the axle with a bottle jack
Remove nut from one bolt (I started at the front spring hanger)
Use a press or a hammer to pound the bolt out of the hole, and manipulate the jack height to support the axle without loading the bolt.
Once the bolt is out, lower the jack to let the spring drop out of the hanger bracket
I used a screw driver to pry the bushing out, you can get in behind it and fold it up to push it out
Install brass bushing - I coated the outsde of the new bushing in grease, and used an the removed bolt with the raised edges ground off, bushing slid over it and tapped it into the spring eye lightly with a hammer
Jack the axle to line up the spring eye hole with the hanger hole, and slide new bolt in.
I used a harbor freight U-Joint press to push in the new bolt all of the way (to set the raised bolt edges in the hanger hole)
Tighten the nut
Move to the next support to the back and so on and then the other side.

You'll need blocking to support the trailer, a bottle jack, stuff to remove a tire, a 11/16" socket or wrench for the nuts, a 13/16" socket or wrench for the bolts, a hammer, a screwdriver, a grinder to remove the raised edges from the bolt (or a similiar sized bolt), a U-joint press is helpful (borrow from Autozone for free maybe? or buy at Harbor Freight) and a grease gun
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