Rear Door Deadbolt issue when leveled

[ETCrockett]

On our last few outing this past season, we started having an issue with the deadbolt lock on the back door of our 2016 Pinnacle 38FLSA. When we get set up level at the campsite, the deadbolt will not work. It is not aligning with the door jam. However when the leveling jacks are retracted, the deadbolt works fine. Is it possible the leveling jack on that corner is lifting or twisting the frame and getting door jam out of alignment with the deadbolt? I'm not sure if it is related, but door from the hall to the bedroom which is also becoming "stuck". It appears when you turn the handle it is not clearing the door jam completely and it takes a good kick to get it to open. I finally removed the hardware on the door jam so it would not get stuck while in storage. You can see the scratch marks on the door jam shield where the door handle is making contact. I have checked the hinge plates and they are firmly in the wall. Since both doors are on the same side an in the same immediate area, I'm a little concerned that the two issues are somehow related.

Anyone ever have this issue or have some ideas?

[Jeffur]

Mine sticks too. Just enlarge the travel hole for the deadbolt. It just needs more clearance.

[ETCrockett]

Originally Posted by Jeffur

Mine sticks too. Just enlarge the travel hole for the deadbolt. It just needs more clearance.

That is what I am planning to do. I'm thinking about changing the hardware on the inside hall door and replacing the cheaper hardware that is on it. I was concerned since both doors worked fine for over 2 years and then both have an issue at the same time. There are so many horror stories about frames twisting. Thanks for the advice.

[AKRUEBBE]

Originally Posted by ETCrockett

That is what I am planning to do. I'm thinking about changing the hardware on the inside hall door and replacing the cheaper hardware that is on it. I was concerned since both doors worked fine for over 2 years and then both have an issue at the same time. There are so many horror stories about frames twisting. Thanks for the advice.

It wouldn't hurt to do a "Zero Point Calibration" on the auto leveling system. It could be out just enough to cause your problem. I did it to our Pinnacle about 4 months after taking delivery because it was slightly unlevel from back to front and it is right on now. Instructions:

[Jeffur]

Your frame is 42’ long, it’s bound to twist a little

[AKRUEBBE]

Originally Posted by Jeffur

Your frame is 42’ long, it’s bound to twist a little

If it's level, there should not be enough twisting to warp door jams.

[ETCrockett]

[QUOTE=AKRUEBBE;816544]It wouldn't hurt to do a "Zero Point Calibration" on the auto leveling system. It could be out just enough to cause your problem. I did it to our Pinnacle about 4 months after taking delivery because it was slightly unlevel from back to front and it is right on now. Instructions:[/QUOTE

Since I did the zero calibration last year, I didn’t think of doing it again. How often do you typically reset the calibration?

[jimp]

Check all of the screws at the hinges as well, one or more could be loose.

[DonaandDon]

Do you lower the landing gears location pin when disconnecting? I'm wondering how far the rear lifts to level? Have you ever noticed any tires close to being off the ground? Once the front reaches the end point of travel the rear will compensate to level.

[AKRUEBBE]

[QUOTE=ETCrockett;816691]

Originally Posted by AKRUEBBE

It wouldn't hurt to do a "Zero Point Calibration" on the auto leveling system. It could be out just enough to cause your problem. I did it to our Pinnacle about 4 months after taking delivery because it was slightly unlevel from back to front and it is right on now. Instructions:[/QUOTE Since I did the zero calibration last year, I didn’t think of doing it again. How often do you typically reset the calibration?

I just check it occasionally with a 4 foot level on the kitchen floor. I've only had to re-calibrate once, but I've heard other members say they had to re-calibrate more often.

[ETCrockett]

Originally Posted by DonaandDon

Do you lower the landing gears location pin when disconnecting? I'm wondering how far the rear lifts to level? Have you ever noticed any tires close to being off the ground? Once the front reaches the end point of travel the rear will compensate to level.

I lower the pinned landing gear to about 6” off the ground per Lippert’s instructions. The distance also depends on the slope of the site front to back. Also the leveling process is always started with the nose high (also Lippert recommended). Since following this process, auto level has always been successful. I have lifted the door side wheels off the ground once or twice but I didn’t have an issue with the door locks on those occasions.

Do you zero calibrate with slides out or in? I did mine with slides in. I have 5 slides (3 on the OD side and 2 on the door side). The OD side includes the heavy slide from the kitchen. Could additional slide weight on the OD side cause the zero calibration to be slightly off?

[AKRUEBBE]

I keep the slides in when zero calibrating. The heavier slides should not tilt the FW to the point of unlevel. IMO, you would have to be on very soft ground for that to happen.