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Old 04-16-2016, 07:52 PM   #361
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Tough break Ocraman...glad your dealer made things right quickly.
I watch them running 5ers around my dealers crowded lot quickly. It must happen all the time.
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:04 AM   #362
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My unit is at home waiting for another Rv shop to get all front cap decals than to schedule for cap repaint. My insurance is going after them for the full repair cost. Until my dealer gets there shop built they do not have a body shop. U need a paint booth to do it right. U said u had a main slide problem and it was fixed while u waited, what did they find? I can hear mine struggle but the cocking and stopping went away on its own, at least for now. How were ur j panels coming loose was something missing that holds them?
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Old 04-17-2016, 01:20 PM   #363
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Rock, my dealer had a paint booth (which was good). The slide problem, was caused by a piece of foam rubber that had fallen in the slides track on the fridge end of the slide. They also advised on the Swintec slides, to hold the switch for ten (10) seconds after extending or retracting the slides. They that was to aid in alignment and the motors being in synch.
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:03 AM   #364
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Rock, it appears to me that at the factory they were not careful in lining up the overlap from one piece of J-metal to the next piece or skimping on the J - metal and not allowing enough for a good overlap to get the screws into both pieces. Also, it appeared that they only used one (1) screw to secure the pieces of J -metal. One screw with improper alignment or too short of J - metal was too much for the stress of highway/road travel. So as a result, I had three piece of J - metal come loose in the first two (2) months of ownership (approximately a thousand miles of travel).
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Old 04-18-2016, 11:56 AM   #365
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Thanks for the update. Can someone please look under the kitchen slide. Where the wires come out of the slide bottom than run aft to the folding arm do u have a clamp securing the wires or do they hang loose. Mine has two clamps hanging on the wires not connected. I took one clamp and placed it mid cable run up high just like the one they have where the wires come out. Just want to make sure nothing is pinching when closed
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Old 04-18-2016, 04:56 PM   #366
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Just looked at all my j channel metal pieces. They have two screws where they overlap and another just before the bottom. Than running along the bottom on top of the metal j is a silver molding running the length and that is screwed to the bottom of the Rv. They must of messed yes up to have two come off. I will add more after my warranty is up
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:31 PM   #367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock View Post
Thanks for the update. Can someone please look under the kitchen slide. Where the wires come out of the slide bottom than run aft to the folding arm do u have a clamp securing the wires or do they hang loose. Mine has two clamps hanging on the wires not connected. I took one clamp and placed it mid cable run up high just like the one they have where the wires come out. Just want to make sure nothing is pinching when closed
Rock
Mine are all zip tied in a big bundle with the fridge drain to the folding arm.
I don't think you have the residential fridge so you don't have that drain.
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:09 PM   #368
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Hello all,
Mine are the same as Klassic's... (Took a few pics if you want to see)
We just finished another 5k+ miles in the rig(AZ-CA-OR-WA-ID-UT.. Currently at lake Powell AZ), return to home tomorrow and then the rig goes into the dealer for the roof repairs on Thursday .. I'll keep you all posted how that turns out.
I have noticed a bent frame brace under the kitchen slide ... We have not had any slide issues, but there is a sense of a low or soft spot in front of the frig (same side as the bent brace... We are having the dealer check it out as well...
Also, the top battery shelf has torn and is at risk of collapsing onto the lower batteries... Remember ... I have six batteries, 3 on top and three below.. The dealer will be repairing this as well;however, I'm thinking I may just go back to the two standard AGMs... We don't do much if any dry camping, we have a generator, plus the truck so I'm not seeing the value vs the added weight etc...
Any thoughts or feedback ?
Thanks again
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:26 AM   #369
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So your wire bundle just comes out of the slide hangs down and than back up to the arm with no other hard mounts just tie wrapped together. If that is so I will remove the clamp I installed since there were two just hanging in the wires. My wires now r like a W now since I installed the bracket in the center up at the top. You r carrying a lot of wait with those extra batteries and I would remove if it was me. I just bought two battery boxes and remounted the tie downs with bolts instead of the useless screws. I was thinking of yours with six batteries and like that is a lot of weight on the flimsy top shelf. The bottom shelf is not even high enough for me to put the top cover on the battery box since it now hits my tie down bolts I installed on the top shelf. Put some holes in the bottom box to drain any water since now open but now both batteries are securely tied down. Post a pic of the bent frame support that does not sound good at all. I wonder if that could happen when you power level since u can see the flex just aft of the wheels when it lifts the back. To bend that support the frame would have to twist some. Post a picture I will look at mine after work to see exactly what u have bent. Take some more pics of your roof to when u bring it in for repairs.
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:26 AM   #370
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:31 AM   #371
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Mine runs like yours thru the swing arm, on the right side of ur picture where it leaves the swing arm mine just hangs way down and runs over about three ft and than up into the slide. Between the swing arm and where the cables run into my slide I mounted a clamp to support the wires. Can u post another pic to show from the swing arm where it mounts to the slide to where the wires run up into the slide.

Tks
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:51 AM   #372
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I'll check after work, but I'm almost positive they go up into the slide no farther than a foot away from the swing arm.

Edit...I just looked at the picture again. They go up very close to where the split loom is going into the floor that you can see in the picture
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:14 AM   #373
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Thanks, they must be different on the FBTS and run over another two ft before going into the slide. Hopefully another FBTS owner will show a pic
Tks
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:07 PM   #374
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And you're right there is another one 3' away. It is the gas line and the fridge drain. It too has a clamp near where it goes up.
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:51 PM   #375
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Thanks for the pic. Next time I close my slide I will watch mine from the bottom. I was hoping AZ would of posted a pic on the bent frame support. I just keep fixing small stuff like QA was off when mine was made. Now my radio display is blank, functions work but u have no idea what u r doing. Calling Jayco to see if they will send me the radio so I can swap it out. I do not want to go back to my dealer
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:16 PM   #376
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My dealer lets me do stuff like that.
But I can't see them not, at least, wanting to see for themselves that is broken.
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Old 04-20-2016, 07:18 AM   #377
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I called Furrion direct and they wanted my Rv vin #. They are sending me a new one with return postage on the broke one. Great customer service service and can bypass the dealer hassle.

You wires look to be well routed straight along the slide inside lip. Mine even with the clamp still have make two loops now that hang down a few inches
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:13 PM   #378
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Saturday was the first time out in our fbts since last fall , which was only twice, everything worked fine, the furnace had to run satuday night, it got down into the thirties, I did get alot of duct noise from the duct contracting after the furnace would shut off it would wake you up the popping was so loud, just wondering if anyone else has had this. Also Klassic you are right, this is the first time I pulled it since last fall, I can not lock my brakes if I engage my brake lever, I will try to tighten the plug pins like you and see if it helps, they could be rusty from sitting all winter, I definently want them better than they are.
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Old 05-12-2016, 06:27 AM   #379
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I cannot lock my new brakes either when moving lever full on. The voltage goes up and right back down just like sitting still. Driving and just breaking they work fine. My last trip dropping off to the paint shop I did some hard breaking to set the shoes. Brake temps were all around 175 but the left front was 250. The left front gets the wires first than they split off from there. Wonder if that has something to do with dropping current to the others. When I get mine back am gonna jack that wheel and make sure it spins like it should. I had my prodigy controller set at B2 and volts at 12. I am gonna drop volts down to 8 next drive. I might just be sending to much to the heavy trailer and need to use truck brakes a little harder. Maybe factory controllers are different but using a meter at plug and looking at the unit when I move Manuel lever to max voltage goes up to what it is set at but than drops back to like 2 volts just like sitting at a light with foot on brake stopped. I have to use chocks to move my slider or to check hitch fully locked before towing
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:24 AM   #380
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Direct TV hookup

Hello all, it's been awhile since I posted. I need some advice on Direct TV hookup.

It looks like the signal from the dish gets split outside and one goes to the living room and the other to the bedroom. I know there is a jumper next to the living room tv that has to be removed if using a sat. dish, My question is - were does the swim unit (dish power supply) connect into the system? Does it go on one of the connections inside where the jumper is removed?

Thanks
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