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Old 08-16-2018, 09:04 AM   #1
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refrigerator

My refridgerator does not always switch from electric to gas when power is unplugged. Ideas?
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Old 08-16-2018, 09:41 AM   #2
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Make sure you bleed the propane system by running the stove or furnace for a minute or two before you attempt to fire the fridge on gas. If you haven't used the propane in a while, you will need to do this. If you don't "bleed" the system, it could take the fridge 3 or 4 cycles to get started.

This is what causes MOST lighting problems when switching from electric to gas on these fridges...
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Old 08-16-2018, 10:38 AM   #3
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I had the same issue and once I bled the system it switched over no problem.
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:51 PM   #4
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Yep, that's usually the problem for me too. But, I've also had the problem when driving on windy days. When the wind direction is just right and strong enough it will keep the gas burner from operating. The system then shuts down until I stop and reset it.

SInce my travel procedure is to disconnect the power just before moving out, I am not in the trailer when the fridge tries to start on gas. So, sometimes we travel a couple of hours before I notice it.
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Old 08-18-2018, 08:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vcbice View Post
Yep, that's usually the problem for me too. But, I've also had the problem when driving on windy days. When the wind direction is just right and strong enough it will keep the gas burner from operating. The system then shuts down until I stop and reset it.

SInce my travel procedure is to disconnect the power just before moving out, I am not in the trailer when the fridge tries to start on gas. So, sometimes we travel a couple of hours before I notice it.
I've made it a habit to listen for the burner to ignite after I unplug from shore power right before departure. I also listen for it at each stop during the travel day.

Before I knew the gas needed to be bled, I thought the wind was blowing it out, turns out it just never ignited in the first place.
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:52 AM   #6
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I put one of these in my regulator, no longer have the purge issue when changing tanks:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may need one of these to make it happen:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 08-18-2018, 11:03 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by GarlicDude View Post
I put one of these in my regulator, no longer have the purge issue when changing tanks:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may need one of these to make it happen:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
VERY interesting!!

Where do you install that check valve?

There have been SEVERAL discussions about why a closed propane system would ever need to be bled in the first place. Where does the propane in the lines go? Why does it lose pressure? If there are no leaks, it should be just the same as when you left it. No one has really ever been able to offer a definitive answer that I have seen...

I never thought about propane flowing BACK into the tank? But then that wouldn't matter if you closed the valves after each use (that's what I did).

Interesting...
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Old 08-18-2018, 11:11 AM   #8
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"Where do you install that check valve?" I put this on the inlet port on the propane regulator
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Old 08-18-2018, 12:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
snip...
There have been SEVERAL discussions about why a closed propane system would ever need to be bled in the first place. Where does the propane in the lines go? Why does it lose pressure? If there are no leaks, it should be just the same as when you left it. No one has really ever been able to offer a definitive answer that I have seen...
...snip.
I read somewhere (on the internet, no doubt, so it must true ) that gasses like propane will dissipate over time through flexible lines. It's not leaking from the lines, but escapes molecule by molecule.


Hardly a definitive answer but worth every penny.
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Old 08-18-2018, 01:35 PM   #10
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Yes the only way you can test a propane system for leaks is to cap all connections and have a gauge installed (minimal 50 lbs.) and put 20 lbs. of air in the system. If it holds the 20 lbs. for a day you'll know your system is OK. But I recommend to let the professionals do this, unless you are a experienced DIYer who has knowledge of propane systems.
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