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Old 08-16-2017, 08:15 PM   #1
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Residential Fridge Durability

We are looking for input with regards to the durability of the residential fridges. The 2018 North Point has them as the standard fridge. Will the fridge components last on the roadways of North America? Our excursions are usually long haul, non boondocking, so we aren't worried about power issues. We just want to know about durability or problems like keeping the doors closed enroute or anything else that might be encountered.

Thanks
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:12 AM   #2
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The one in our 2015 has functioned fine with over 20,000 miles of towing. The door lock holds fine, never an open door, but I do recommend fridge bars for the shelves to help keep things in place, no different than a standard RV fridge.
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:59 PM   #3
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We have a 2015 left over with a Samsung after a year it will only cool to 60 degrees in fridge but freezer works fine. Taking to dealer in morning for replacement.
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Old 08-17-2017, 07:34 PM   #4
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Sounds like it's not defrosting.
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Old 08-17-2017, 07:41 PM   #5
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No staying on defrost as per Samsung.
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Old 08-17-2017, 07:47 PM   #6
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No staying on defrost as per Samsung.
But that's not because it's in a RV.
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Old 08-17-2017, 08:05 PM   #7
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But that's not because it's in a RV.
I also have wondered about that
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:24 AM   #8
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..... Our excursions are usually long haul, non boondocking, so we aren't worried about power issues.

After working with klassic (member) on his SOLAR output / battery issue, he found that his residential Frigidaire unit in his 5er, was killing his batteries even with SOLAR. With some research, we found that the fridge, while in DEFROST mode, hits the batteries for 45+ amps. So the issue is, even with SOLAR and the TV charging the batteries, their combined output was not enough power to maintain 45+ amps while in DEFROST mode. Unfortunately, his batteries were no where near fully charged when he arrived at his campsite. The defrost mode is activated by the fridge's microcontroller, so there is no set timetable that can be followed.

We ended up designing a circuit that used LED's to display the current status of the fridge (defroster on/off, standby) and a switch to keep the defroster from activating while traveling or not on shore power. So far the circuit works great and the batteries are not being killed by the defrost cycle.

So, unless you have a generator running, power your RV's 120VAC, you probably will have a power issue (battery type). I researched and somewhere along the line, I located a document that indicated the fridge should last 10 - 12 hours on batteries, but I believe that if run that long it discharged the batteries to the 10.5 VDC (dead 12VDC battery) disconnect voltage for the inverter. It also did not mention how many or what size batteries were used to obtain those numbers.

I am sure some of the members that have the residential fridge will share their experiences with you.

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Old 08-18-2017, 11:00 AM   #9
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We have a Frigidaire in our 2015. No problems what so ever. With Solar it works all night along with DW sleeping with TV on all night also. I think the misconception is due to batteries. I use 6 AGM deep cycles 12 volt units. I have enough storage to run all night even in shorter daylight hours. I do run the generator in the AM for about 30 minutes for coffee pot etc then the solar kicks in. We have a toyhauler and are off grid 80% of the time.
Door stay shut due to RV lock on doors, the ice maker is a blessing. We have dragged this thing over 30,000 miles and have had no issue. Jayco sizes the invertor based upon the residential fridge. Past RV's has made us anti Domectic and Norcold fridge folks. We found the biggest problem is there are few techs that know how to work on them, BTW there are Class actions out there also.
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https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/m...albums843.html Check this out.
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Old 08-18-2017, 11:43 AM   #10
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Loboclone, I agree with all the additional power you have, there should not be an issue.

My point is based on the average purchaser that gets the residential fridge and the dealer only puts in a single 85Ah battery or maybe if they are lucky 2 85Ah batteries. Either way, the battery(s) are not going to be able to keep up with the refrigerator's apatite for AMPs. With the batteries getting the bulk of the discharge, the battery life will be greatly shortened and possibly the fridges life because or under voltage (AC).

The average RVer has no interest in tracking voltages and if the fridge has an error code (low voltage) that issue is gone when they plug into shore power and reset, but the battery may have dropped to 10volts or so. Over time they MAY notice that the amount of time the batteries are supplying enough power is decreasing with each camping adventure.

RV manufactures give the buyer what they want, even if there is a lack of proper engineering to back their decisions.

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Old 08-18-2017, 12:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang65 View Post
Loboclone, I agree with all the additional power you have, there should not be an issue.

My point is based on the average purchaser that gets the residential fridge and the dealer only puts in a single 85Ah battery or maybe if they are lucky 2 85Ah batteries. Either way, the battery(s) are not going to be able to keep up with the refrigerator's apatite for AMPs. With the batteries getting the bulk of the discharge, the battery life will be greatly shortened and possibly the fridges life because or under voltage (AC).

The average RVer has no interest in tracking voltages and if the fridge has an error code (low voltage) that issue is gone when they plug into shore power and reset, but the battery may have dropped to 10volts or so. Over time they MAY notice that the amount of time the batteries are supplying enough power is decreasing with each camping adventure.

RV manufactures give the buyer what they want, even if there is a lack of proper engineering to back their decisions.

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Don: Ditto on your comments. I retired from RV sales. It used to be if had 2 slides or more you got 2 cheap Exide or Interstate deep cycle batteries. Now you get one no matter what slides or fridge you have. The "PROFIT" regime now says sell what ever the customer wants and deal with the issues later. When I retired there was absolutely no one with RV ownership experience, NO ONE. It was an everyday experience of customers throwing hot grease on management over towing issues, leveling, and poor workmanship of the RV.
The trend to residential Fridges will only continue, thus more energy management issues need to be addressed by RV newbies. Not everyone hooks up in an RV park everyday.
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https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/m...albums843.html Check this out.
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...s-34672-3.html
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:25 PM   #12
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Last year we purchased our 17 377RLBH and it came with the Frigidaire Residential Fridge. It worked great all last summer. I was told last year by one RV repair man(not our dealer) that there is not enough space around these style refrigerators in the RV to cool efficiently enough, and expect to have issues. This spring it would not cool. My luck!

I know this really has nothing to do with your question about power use, but in my case, after they sent an appliance repairman out 3 times to fix it, they ended up sending a replacement unit. Instead of waiting for the Frigidaire dealer to deliver it and coordinate it with the Dealer to install it, I took on the task. The dinette window needed to be removed in order to make the swap, which was actually much easier then I thought it would be. Taking it to the dealer was not an option because we are set up on a seasonal site and have no way to tow the trailer. The second fridge has been flawless top this point and we are hoping for the best.

Not to scare you, because I am sure most here have not had issues, but here is my experience from start to finish. http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f6...ing-46294.html


It took almost 7 weeks to resolve...
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:18 PM   #13
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I have the residential fridge in my 2016 Seismic toy hauler and really like it. As mentioned earlier these big new 5th wheels are power hogs. I had trouble with the fridge, my slides and my landing gear because of the one 24 series battery the rig was delivered with. I have upgraded to four 29 series batteries and now all system are working properly. At the races people are amazed that I have an ice machine and can't believe I have ice cream that's froze solid. It's so nice to not have to load up ice chests!!!!
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Old 08-19-2017, 05:11 AM   #14
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Don I am thinking I may start putting the refrigerator in defrost mode BEFORE traveling to hopefully insure it won't defrost while driving..........to save batteries.
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Old 08-19-2017, 05:57 AM   #15
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Here is the circuit that klassic and I worked on to control when the DEFROST Circuit will be allowed to do its job. Klassic did all the wiring and testing. This is for the Frigidaire fridge. Last update was that it was working as designed!!

Controls when the battery gets hit with the 45Amp Load

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasum View Post
Don I am thinking I may start putting the refrigerator in defrost mode BEFORE traveling to hopefully insure it won't defrost while driving..........to save batteries.
I am sure that activating/completing the DEFROSTER mode prior to leaving for the trip will help a lot.

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KEN - Final Fridge Defrost Heater circuit.jpg  
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