SaniCon 500

[RAUKE57]

SaniCon is a bit inconsistent. During the shake down in the dealer parking lot, we found the factory relay was cracked. They put a relay in that had 5 contacts not 4. The unit worked.

We took a two week trip, it worked once. I didn’t flush it well so it got plugged. I got the plugged cleared and it was fill my blue tank QUICKLY.

The next day when we went to leave it turned on and wouldn’t turn off! I pulled switch wires, but had to empty the basement, pull the panel and unplug the relay. I finished dumping by making the contact at the relay. Left it unhooked for the drive home.

What is the proper relay for the SaniCon 500 that was installed by the dealer using the factory wiring on our North Point 310 RLTS? I’m thinking the relay failed.

[JB13502]

Originally Posted by RAUKE57

SaniCon is a bit inconsistent. During the shake down in the dealer parking lot, we found the factory relay was cracked. They put a relay in that had 5 contacts not 4. The unit worked.

We took a two week trip, it worked once. I didn’t flush it well so it got plugged. I got the plugged cleared and it was fill my blue tank QUICKLY.

The next day when we went to leave it turned on and wouldn’t turn off! I pulled switch wires, but had to empty the basement, pull the panel and unplug the relay. I finished dumping by making the contact at the relay. Left it unhooked for the drive home.

What is the proper relay for the SaniCon 500 that was installed by the dealer using the factory wiring on our North Point 310 RLTS? I’m thinking the relay failed.

Any 4-pin or 5-pin 40/30 Amp 12 Volt DC relay should work. The only difference between the 2 is the 87A pin, which isn't used.
The first illustration is from Thetford's installation manual for the 500. The second is the wiring illustration for a 4-pin relay. Like I said, if you have a 5-pin relay just ignore the 87A pin.

[CwD]

Here is a picture of my relay for the Sanicon prep.

[RAUKE57]

Thank You. They are readily available online and the dealer sent me one.

[RAUKE57]

Thank you for the detailed reply. The dealer is sending me a new relay. Because of your advice, I was able to locate and purchase a backup on Amazon. I purchased a new switch also, just in case it’s a contributing factor. Thanks again.

[kirkelli]

it's always boggled my mind why the manufactures even use Relays when they use mile long runs of 14 gauge wire. On my RSTS the Sanicon relay is located up in the front storage compartment and the Sanicon #14 wire stub is 15-20' aft. I don't use the Sanicon but wired my Macerator pump to a 10 Gauge wire from the battery and placed the fused relay within a few inches from the pump.

[RAUKE57]

SaniCon 500: I learned a lot today! I purchased new relays! I plugged them in EXACTLY like they were from the install at the dealer! When switched on it did pump but seemed lazy and it pulsed - then like before it wouldn’t shut off.

Changed to another relay, pulled out the schematic provided on the Jayco Owners forum when I noticed that the installer had placed the switch wire 18gau. on the wrong terminal. I swapped the wires to the correct terminals. Fixed it right? NOT SO FAST!

The new relay got very hot very fast and it too would not turn off with the switch. Got to looking at the circuitry starting at the switch. I found that, the switch was also wired backwards. The yellow wire was where it belonged the black and the white were switched. This explains why earlier in the day I was getting negative voltage. I believe the pump when switched on was actually running backwards, thereby surging with low volume.

The pump now runs at a higher RPM, there’s no surging and it will spray water 10’ out of the garden hose connection. The best part of all, It now shuts off when I turn the switch off and the relay no longer gets warm.

Problem Solved without a dealer trip, thank you for your help! I have I formed them in writing and verbally what I found, so they can learn from it.

[RAUKE57]

Originally Posted by JB13502

Any 4-pin or 5-pin 40/30 Amp 12 Volt DC relay should work. The only difference between the 2 is the 87A pin, which isn't used.
The first illustration is from Thetford's installation manual for the 500. The second is the wiring illustration for a 4-pin relay. Like I said, if you have a 5-pin relay just ignore the 87A pin.

SaniCon 500: I learned a lot today! I purchased new relays! I plugged them in EXACTLY like they were from the install at the dealer! When switched on it did pump but seemed lazy and it pulsed - then like before it wouldn’t shut off.

Changed to another relay, pulled out the schematic provided on the Jayco Owners forum when I noticed that the installer had placed the switch wire 18gau. on the wrong terminal. I swapped the wires to the correct terminals. Fixed it right? NOT SO FAST!

The new relay got very hot very fast and it too would not turn off with the switch. Got to looking at the circuitry starting at the switch. I found that, the switch was also wired backwards. The yellow wire was where it belonged the black and the white were switched. This explains why earlier in the day I was getting negative voltage. I believe the pump when switched on was actually running backwards, thereby surging with low volume.

The pump now runs at a higher RPM, there’s no surging and it will spray water 10’ out of the garden hose connection. The best part of all, It now shuts off when I turn the switch off and the relay no longer gets warm.

Problem Solved without a dealer trip, thank you. I have I formed them in writing and verbally what I found, so they can learn from it.

[JFlightRisk]

sip...[QUOTE=RAUKE57;1055311]SaniCon 500: I learned a lot today! I purchased new relays!

And just for future reference, that relay is a very common one used for aftermarket lights, and other electrical devices requiring a simple relay. They're also readily available at most auto parts stores.

[RAUKE57]

Thank you