Schwintec stall adjustment

Rock · 07-21-2020, 08:47 PM

Has anyone did this? Today running the slide to do more lube I noticed this. When slide was fully extended the inside trim flexed a lot when it stopped. Holding the button to sync the motors it flexed more. I have read everything about adjusting the stall on the controller. No where can I find how much say a half or full turn will effect the stall force. I am gonna call LCI tomorrow to see what they have to say. What I seen today has to be putting a ton of pressure on the gears and gib putting that much force full open or closed. I just want my slide to open and stop without all the flexing and stress. I got a feeling this is causing a bunch of gear and gib failures. So if anyone has done this please post how far u turned the screw and what effect it had on the force when fully closed.
Tks
Rock

Rock · 07-22-2020, 11:16 AM

Just got off the phone with LCI. Seems the new control box does not have a stall adjustment and here is the reason. The motor now stops at a set amp draw to keep the full open/close tq from being to great and breaking stuff. My unit has the old controllers.
LCI could not even tell me which way or how much to turn to reduce the tq or stall. Going to try 1/4 turn CCW and check. He did say it should stop without flexing the inside trim.
I will post what the outcome is.

Rock · 07-22-2020, 12:19 PM

Ok went out and adjusted the stall force. First time 1/4 CCW still a lot of flex on inside trim. Did another 1/4 CCW better but still some flex. Third time another 1/4 CCW.
Now no more flex and it stops as soon as it fully extends. Weird part i no longer hear the motors spinning to sync holding switch. Ran slide three times full in and out. No motor syncing anytime and slide is tracking straight.
So hopefully I did not reduce to much stall. Fridge is empty now but big trip is Tuesday. I moved the box so I can now get to it and adjust quickly if need be.
Since I have owned this the motors have both spun several times syncing when button held after full open. Upon release u would see the slide move in just a tad ( probably the seals UN squishing). Now it just stops, no motor spin or movement. If I have no issues during trip than I can say it was way over the required stall tq. If I have a stall I will go back 1/4 CW.
U guys that have the older box might want to pay attention to how much flex u get on the inside trim. When u hear of broken shafts and gears this might be the reason. They changed the box for a reason and probably should of been a recall.
Rock

Radar57 · 07-22-2020, 04:41 PM

Rock,

On the 2016 36FBTS can you confirm on the big slide (fridge, stove, TV) Jayco used the Schwintek Slide system??? I have a 2019 36FBTS and it has the slim rack system.

klassic · 07-22-2020, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Radar57

Rock,

On the 2016 36FBTS can you confirm on the big slide (fridge, stove, TV) Jayco used the Schwintek Slide system??? I have a 2019 36FBTS and it has the slim rack system.

All 2016’s have Schwintek on the big slide.
I think they changed late 2017.

Radar57 · 07-22-2020, 05:15 PM

Klassic,

Now I understand the reason behind your complaint in the other post. That is a bit scrawny slide system for that big of a slide. It works fine for the bedroom slide.

Rock · 07-22-2020, 05:18 PM

Yup it was 2017 they went to the slim rack. I was at the factory service center for roof, slide, outriggers, suspension and a bunch of other stuff. They told me u cannot change over to slim-rack system. But they would not tell me why. My tire rub fix is now a recall item. Mine was a first and they had to figure out what to do. Now the recall is a different fix. Mine was all new Dexter springs and a heavier duty center rubber block. Raised the FW another inch higher.

klassic · 07-22-2020, 06:23 PM

Rock..I would imaging you couldn’t go to slim rack because your slide room sides would be full of holes from taking off the schwintek rails.
And I think the hole the slide goes in, would have to be a little wider too.

I don’t understand how they put the plates above the rollers on your slide. That would lift the slide by however thick the plate is.
As far as I see there is no up/down play for the slide room to move.
Looks to me that’s why my upper bearing block’s shoe snapped clean off, because the slide moved down and put too much pressure on it.

I really want to see for myself what the Schwintek columns look like off the trailer. I can’t see enough by pulling the seals back.

But from what I see on Slim Rack, looks like there is way more movement that can happen if it needs to move a little.

Rock · 07-22-2020, 06:50 PM

Klassic,
U r right about the side rails and slide track up and down alignment. The shaft gear looks like it is a tad smaller than the rail track. At the factory they told me the slide has a sweet spot to sit to align the gear and track. Think about it, bent down outriggers and floor indentation from the rollers and now the slide is lower and shaft gear and track are no longer in the sweet spot.
Slim rack took care of that problem since it flexes up and down. So slide just gets pulled in an out and if low or high no effect on track and gear.
Just like the stupid electric jack issue. Electric is great just beef up the damn nut and shaft threads.

Rock · 07-27-2020, 04:48 PM

Well that did not work. Now that kitchen slide and Norcold is packed full for trip it stalled. Fridge side moved about an inch and quit, TV side kept going. So since I moved the control box easy fix. Adjusted stall CW tad more than 1/4 turn. Ran slide twice. Full open it flexes inside trim but not much. To bad each motor could not be adjusted since forward fridge is the heavy part and needs more stall.
At least trip is on to camp first light.
Rock

klassic · 07-27-2020, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Radar57

Klassic,

Now I understand the reason behind your complaint in the other post. That is a bit scrawny slide system for that big of a slide. It works fine for the bedroom slide.

Yes..my bedroom slide is perfect.
On my NorthPoint the bed slide is also half of the bathroom too.
Like I’ve said before, this is such a simple system and it works...if it doesn’t have to move 2000 lbs that’s cantilevered over of some flimsy supports.

Brendon105 · 09-21-2021, 09:48 PM

I know this thread is old but can you tell me where to find the control to turn up or down the amp draw on these motors? Is it on the motor itself or controller? My left slim rack motor quits a couple inches short of full extend and want to see if
It just needs a little more juice to finish the job.

Marine71-76 · 09-22-2021, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rock

Yup it was 2017 they went to the slim rack. I was at the factory service center for roof, slide, outriggers, suspension and a bunch of other stuff. They told me u cannot change over to slim-rack system. But they would not tell me why. My tire rub fix is now a recall item. Mine was a first and they had to figure out what to do. Now the recall is a different fix. Mine was all new Dexter springs and a heavier duty center rubber block. Raised the FW another inch higher.

Rock, what recall? When we had our issue, Jayco said there wasn't a recall for 2016 FBTS units. We had new leaf springs put on in 10/2020 and then the new & replaced outriggers spring 2021. Still have a tire rubbing.

Rock · 09-22-2021, 06:26 AM

Brendon105
On your control box with the blinking lights. Right next to the paper label bar code is a round circle. Take a very small straight slot and push a hole thru paper. CC less force CW more. Do just 1/4 turn at a time. New boxes have a built in amp set point.

Rock · 09-22-2021, 06:30 AM

Marine 71-76
They never made it a recall for 2016. When I brought mine to them in Oct 2017 they told me mine was the first brought in for the run. There were others reports but mine was first to get a fix. All new leaf springs and a heavier rubber Morride center block. That raised FW another inch.

You may also like: