Schwintek broken again

[klassic]

Now for the third time the kitchen slide is broken.
The upper bearing block broke.
With COVID and all, I had reservations from six moths ago...hoping that Provincial Parks (Ontario) would open in time for my week. They did.
Ready to leave at 8 in the morning and “snap” the bearing block breaks.
It’s my luck with this NorthPoint.
It’s been in for a total of 6 months of slide repairs....now more.
It’s unreal.
I seriously don’t know how anyone with a big kitchen slide hasn’t had trouble. There should be a class action law suit for using this slide type mechanism in a slide that is obviously too heavy.
Eighty thousand dollars and the trailer decides whether I go camping or not.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by klassic

Now for the third time the kitchen slide is broken.
The upper bearing block broke.
With COVID and all, I had reservations from six moths ago...hoping that Provincial Parks (Ontario) would open in time for my week. They did.
Ready to leave at 8 in the morning and “snap” the bearing block breaks.
It’s my luck with this NorthPoint.
It’s been in for a total of 6 months of slide repairs....now more.
It’s unreal.
I seriously don’t know how anyone with a big kitchen slide hasn’t had trouble. There should be a class action law suit for using this slide type mechanism in a slide that is obviously too heavy.
Eighty thousand dollars and the trailer decides whether I go camping or not.

Sounds like something is out of alignment and hasn't been repaired properly. Had the same set-up on our PINNACLE and bounced it around over 20,000 miles with no issues. And as you said it doesn't seem to be a common issue with others.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Sounds like something is out of alignment and hasn't been repaired properly. Had the same set-up on our PINNACLE and bounced it around over 20,000 miles with no issues. And as you said it doesn't seem to be a common issue with others.

It’s been repaired twice and completely replaced once (that doesn’t include the wiring trouble, the motor trouble, and the module trouble)

I lube it all the time, as per Lippert, and I spray silicone on the rollers.
It is such a simple system.
I don’t know what to do anymore.
Thinking of trading in.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by klassic

It’s been repaired twice and completely replaced once
I lube it all the time, as per Lippert, and I spray silicone on the rollers.

If there is an alignment issue and they always put the rail back in the same spot the problem won't be corrected. Same for the drive assembly. One or the other may need to be raised or lowered. If I remember correctly that doesn't carry any weight it's just a guide, the weight is on the rollers.

[klassic]

Look how clean that shoe snapped off.
Looks like if the slide starts dropping the shoe starts snapping.
I had a good run lately with the slide..since last October (end of season) lol.

[RoadrunnerII]

Had our 2017 321rsts Eagle back to factory as the kitchen slide would not travel evenly. They added bigger reinforcement plates top and bottom front and rear. Originals where aluminum siding thickness. New ones are steel about 3/16 inch. It was a known issue that the trailer wall H channel would twist and bind the blocks and motors. Check your plates can be seen when slide retracked. Ours works fine now... So far

RoadrunnerII

[klassic]

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

Had our 2017 321rsts Eagle back to factory as the kitchen slide would not travel evenly. They added bigger reinforcement plates top and bottom front and rear. Originals where aluminum siding thickness. New ones are steel about 3/16 inch. It was a known issue that the trailer wall H channel would twist and bind the blocks and motors. Check your plates can be seen when slide retracked. Ours works fine now... So far

RoadrunnerII

Interesting.
I thought I read somewhere those were basically for them to keep it lined up for install and provided no support.

I like how they never really knew if this system was actually a good mechanism.
They’ve changed so many things along the way.
300:1 motors then 500:1..more rollers on the bottom..nothing or steel or Teflon plates above the rollers..level first, or don’t level first. What ever works.
3 different styles of slide supports, maybe double this one up, or put this one on. Wait...that one is no good let’s try this one.
Hold on, let’s use Slim Rack now.

Pay 80grand and be the guinea pig.

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by klassic

Interesting.

I thought I read somewhere those were basically for them to keep it lined up for install and provided no support.



I like how they never really knew if this system was actually a good mechanism.

They’ve changed so many things along the way.

300:1 motors then 500:1..more rollers on the bottom..nothing or steel or Teflon plates above the rollers..level first, or don’t level first. What ever works.

3 different styles of slide supports, maybe double this one up, or put this one on. Wait...that one is no good let’s try this one.

Hold on, let’s use Slim Rack now.



Pay 80grand and be the guinea pig.

The H Channel in the wall you could see it twist when you ran motor in or out. With the new plates no movement... The supervisor at Jayco factory that looked at it came from swinteck. He did all the training materials for them on the slides. He knew these things inside out. He said right off the support plates where our problem. Too thin allowing the twisting.
No issue with the slide since the factory visit at end of March 2019.

RoadrunnerII

[Rock]

Klassic,
Just got mine back 7 1/2 months in the shop. I had a bunch of stuff fixed besides the kitchen slide and it should of all been done in a month or two. They said the shafts were dropping from the motor. They talked with Jayco and not sure if the fix was Jayco or what they came up with. They made some kind of plate that was installed below the shafts to prevent that. LCI told me there was a shim kit put out to fix dropping shafts. But the info PDF they sent me was for another RV manufacture. I sure hope it is fixed lv next week for a two month trip. I can see nothing from the outside looking for a shim. On my FBTS u really do not have good access to the front of slide inside unless u bring it in just slightly due to the half bath. Like u I have no faith in this slide.
I am sure u have looked at your outriggers. Jayco replaced my bent ones with the new improved ones. One of those bent and the other broke a weld. Had that fixed by a welder who added thick steel plates.
Also two of my rollers at front heavy end of slide were wearing into the floor. U could see the indentation where the roller wore the bottom. Jayco added wide Teflon type pads under slide for every roller.
Maybe ur slide had dropped down just a bit if your rollers wore into floor like mine did. Floor also will bend down if outriggers are bent. The added pads are thick and moved the slide up just a tad.

[TxLoser]

Sorry to hear this happened to you. I'd be just as frustrated and agree its a terrible design for these large slides. I'm just waiting for my kitchen slide to act up. I already don't like the way it extends and retracts. It just seems to labor and while it's even I can see and feel a shake as it comes in and go's out. Someone needs to come up with a way to bulletproof these things.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by TxLoser

Sorry to hear this happened to you. I'd be just as frustrated and agree its a terrible design for these large slides. I'm just waiting for my kitchen slide to act up. I already don't like the way it extends and retracts. It just seems to labor and while it's even I can see and feel a shake as it comes in and go's out. Someone needs to come up with a way to bulletproof these things.

Try spraying silicon lube on your bottom rollers... use the CRC Power Lube at the gibs (as per Lippert’s instructions) and spray the side seals with rubber slide seal conditioner.
I find my slide sounds and acts much better after a lube job.
Unfortunately it doesn’t stop it from breaking.

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by klassic

Try spraying silicon lube on your bottom rollers... use the CRC Power Lube at the gibs (as per Lippert’s instructions) and spray the side seals with rubber slide seal conditioner.

I find my slide sounds and acts much better after a lube job.

Unfortunately it doesn’t stop it from breaking.

Same here it seems to help it alot to lube it regularly

RoadrunnerII

[Rock]

I do all that lubing and ensure the track and rollers are dirt free. The Teflon pads made it roll with less groaning but than my problem began.
Seems by lack of posting our two biggest problems have been resolved.
Slim Rack
Hyd Jacks

[Springhook]

Originally Posted by Rock

Klassic,
Just got mine back 7 1/2 months in the shop. I had a bunch of stuff fixed besides the kitchen slide and it should of all been done in a month or two. They said the shafts were dropping from the motor. They talked with Jayco and not sure if the fix was Jayco or what they came up with. They made some kind of plate that was installed below the shafts to prevent that. LCI told me there was a shim kit put out to fix dropping shafts. But the info PDF they sent me was for another RV manufacture. I sure hope it is fixed lv next week for a two month trip. I can see nothing from the outside looking for a shim. On my FBTS u really do not have good access to the front of slide inside unless u bring it in just slightly due to the half bath. Like u I have no faith in this slide.
I am sure u have looked at your outriggers. Jayco replaced my bent ones with the new improved ones. One of those bent and the other broke a weld. Had that fixed by a welder who added thick steel plates.
Also two of my rollers at front heavy end of slide were wearing into the floor. U could see the indentation where the roller wore the bottom. Jayco added wide Teflon type pads under slide for every roller.
Maybe ur slide had dropped down just a bit if your rollers wore into floor like mine did. Floor also will bend down if outriggers are bent. The added pads are thick and moved the slide up just a tad.

I am very interested to know how the teflon plates, or any other plates, under the rollers are installed. I envision jacking up the slide enough to slide the plates between the floor and rollers and screwing in to the bottom. How does one attach the leading edge of the plate which is not exposed?

[Rock]

The Teflon plate is wider than rollers and the width of floor. They are attached with screws along each side up to the seal area. The rest of the pad just extended several inches more and stops just past the rollers. It is a thick pad and does not bend down in the small area that has no screws. The pads are under all the rollers. I have seen this on other slides from other manufacturers that were built like this.

[Thomson]

When you extend and retract the kitchen slide you should hold the switch for 3 to 5 seconds after end of travel. That resynchronizes the motors. Do that every time.

[Rock]

Been doing it that way since 2016

[BLTravels]

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

Same here it seems to help it alot to lube it regularly

RoadrunnerII

Originally Posted by klassic

Try spraying silicon lube on your bottom rollers... use the CRC Power Lube at the gibs (as per Lippert’s instructions) and spray the side seals with rubber slide seal conditioner.
I find my slide sounds and acts much better after a lube job.
Unfortunately it doesn’t stop it from breaking.

Can you tell me where you can find instructions or information about "lubing" the schwintek slides? When I spoke to a Lippert Tech he said no maintenance needed "especially lube or grease". This matches the owner's manual. Maybe I am missing something. What are gibs?

[Rock]

Go to the LCI website or just google it. They have videos on how to do it
Rock

[BLTravels]

Originally Posted by Rock

Go to the LCI website or just google it. They have videos on how to do it
Rock

Thanks, found them right away. When your manual and a Lippert Tech says one thing and Lippert University says another...what do you do? That is a somewhat rhetorical question. It sounds like lubing does work.