Schwintek question

[JaycoAl]

TxLoser, the lower gib is still there on mine. Haven’t looked to see if the upper gib is still there yet. I’m going to gently jack the slide up and try to align the gib with the hole and put another rivet in there. I’ll also check the rollers underneath while the jack is in place and if there is a gap between the bottom and the roller, then I’ll fix that as well. The slide still moves to and fro as normal.

[TxLoser]

Is this rivet here?

[klassic]

Yes.

[TxLoser]

Went out to storage to have a look. Still have the 2.5” mentioned in a previous post. However, I can’t tell for sure, but it’s possible the head of the rivet is gone and it shifted slightly towards to rear of the trailer. Or it’s still there and somehow pulled through the opening. You may have to click and zoom on the photo. Everything works the same as from day 1, which again has never overly confidence inspiring. This thread just has me looking for the missing rivet. Who knows how long it’s been missing.

[Rock]

Originally Posted by klassic

Yes.

Klassic,
Does one pop rivet go thru both inner and outer gibs and can you get to the inside gib?
Just wondering that if you can get to at least one can you put a high shear bolt thru the whole thing. Regular pop rivets are junk. Working on aircraft we used high strength pneumatic pulled solid shank ones.
My new schwintec the gib blocks are not pulled up against the block there is a small gap. This came from LCI this way. Been exactly like that for a year now.

[Cincinnati Kid]

Going back to the original post and photo, it looks like a major problem with the slideout box dropping. I would suspect that the rivet sheared when the box moved more than the wiggle room designed into the gib.
Even if you can line it up and reinstall the rivet, it seems that it will break again as soon as weight is put back on it.

[TxLoser]

Between this and the 3/4” crack that appeared near my bedroom slide, I’m thinking I need to park this trailer in Oklahoma when the tornados start up. Or maybe run it to California for fire season.

All my research confirms they have to replace the whole frame to the tune of $2500. Which is ridiculous.

Seems this is a result of vertical stress.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by Rock

Klassic,
Does one pop rivet go thru both inner and outer gibs and can you get to the inside gib?
Just wondering that if you can get to at least one can you put a high shear bolt thru the whole thing. Regular pop rivets are junk. Working on aircraft we used high strength pneumatic pulled solid shank ones.
My new schwintec the gib blocks are not pulled up against the block there is a small gap. This came from LCI this way. Been exactly like that for a year now.

No. They are individually riveted on. And I think they are meant to fail if the slide box drops too much.

If you were to take the H column and gear rack off the trailer, you would then slide the gear racks out of the bearing blocks, then the bearing blocks and the shaft would all slide off the gibs in one complete unit. The bearing blocks would then just slide down the shaft and fall off the bottom of the shaft. They can’t go off the top because of the pinch on the top of the shaft. It’s basically the gear sprockets that holds the bearing blocks on the shaft.
Rock, you know what happens when they miss that process at the factory.

Then you are left with the H column (basically like a C channel) with four gibs riveted to the inside, on each side of the channel walls.
The left side Schwintek column is the fixed side and can’t slide on the gibs because there is an aluminum rivet that goes through the outside of the H column and into the bearing block (top and bottom bearing blocks) (you can’t see that hole in TxLosers diagram) it stops the bearing blocks from sliding back and forth on the gibs and keeps the 2 1/2” measurement from the gear rack to the outside of the H column flange.
It’s the right side, of the slide, that floats on the gibs and can move.

So your bolting theory might work (?) You would have to drill though the bearing block too. I know there is a little play between the bearing block and the gibs. They flex a little bit in there, so I don’t know what bolting the bearing block solid to the H column would do to it.
But as the slide box drops from things like…the bottom rollers gouging into the floor, or the cantilevered trailer floor sagging down from the weight of the slide, or the slide is bouncing up and down when driving over rough roads…so do the bearing blocks, because they are attached to the gear rack with the foot and the V roller.
If the slide box moves down, then it either hangs on the V roller, that is basically held up by the gibs, or the gib rivets would shear.

If you ever get to take an H column off the trailer, it all becomes clear on how it works because the pieces are in your hand, and why it can fail so easily. If you took a new trailer to a permanent site and opened the slide once, you will never have a problem. Lol.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by TxLoser

Between this and the 3/4” crack that appeared near my bedroom slide, I’m thinking I need to park this trailer in Oklahoma when the tornados start up. Or maybe run it to California for fire season.

All my research confirms they have to replace the whole frame to the tune of $2500. Which is ridiculous.

Seems this is a result of vertical stress.

This is how I fixed my crack.
Out of sight, out of mind.

[TxLoser]

That looks really good. I’m going to have my dealer so the same in Feb. cut a relief and place some trim. They’ve done quite a few as you can imagine.

As for this thread, I guess I’ll let them go after my slide out as well in February. He was telling me Vroom is the way to go and they tried to get that guy to open a second shop within their facility, but the guy so overwhelmed already that won’t happen. Guess he’s working with Tiffin already.

[JaycoAl]

Originally Posted by Cincinnati Kid

Going back to the original post and photo, it looks like a major problem with the slideout box dropping. I would suspect that the rivet sheared when the box moved more than the wiggle room designed into the gib.
Even if you can line it up and reinstall the rivet, it seems that it will break again as soon as weight is put back on it.

The box did drop on one side and sheared the rivets. It is resting on the rollers and they are not digging into the bottom. When I jack it up on the lower side and attempt to align the gibs in the original position, I’ll check the gap between the bottom of the box and the rollers and shim accordingly to relieve the weight off of the gibs.

[Rock]

Originally Posted by JaycoAl

The box did drop on one side and sheared the rivets. It is resting on the rollers and they are not digging into the bottom. When I jack it up on the lower side and attempt to align the gibs in the original position, I’ll check the gap between the bottom of the box and the rollers and shim accordingly to relieve the weight off of the gibs.

It seems to me if u have a gap between the roller and slide floor than the H column is bolted in to high. The slide is suppose to sit on the rollers. It can only drop down if the roller pushes into the slide floor bottom ( that is why I have the plastic wear plates) or the outriggers bent and the floor has bent down.
Rock

[TxLoser]

On my unit, I’ve noticed the floor slopes down near the outside edge when the slide is extended. You feel the slope as you walk by the fridge. The out riggers look straight to the naked eye, but I’ve not measured anything. Is it pretty obvious when the out riggers are are bent or giving a little?

[klassic]

They buckle in the middle. But that was the first generation of support in 2016 for NorthPoints. I have them, 2 got fixed. Jayco change the design pretty quick, 3 times I think..probably on 4 now. They probably still bend.
I don’t know what style would be on the Eagle.
I think there should be one under each roller. The last support in the area under my fridge is around 12” from the last roller.
I can’t feel the floor dropping from the inside, but I’m sure it is a little.
If you can actually feel it, then that’s a problem. Slide a straight across the floor and see how much it drops.
I asked the shop foreman if mine was dropping on that side years ago. He said you would noticeably feel the drop and that’s when there’s a problem.

Here’s a support bending thread.
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...lse-35795.html

My buddy’s TT had horrible Schwintek trouble. The supports looked good, but the bottom of the trailers “I” frame was bending inwards and pulling the front of the supports down along with the floor and rollers.

[Rock]

Up until 2017 we had 10 inch frames than they went to 12 inch. The Pinnacles are 8ft 6 wide. We have more floor hanging over the frame and the outriggers bent big time.
Rock

[TxLoser]

Took my unit in this morning for a new slide out rack. Just picked it up a few hours ago. My slide operates better than it did new. Very smooth.

The tech found it to be binding and all but one mounting screw on the forward of the slide was broken plus the rivets. I always thought it should work better, but it worked. Only issue now is we found the wall to not be cut straight and towards the bottom rear there’s a little space between the rack and the wall. Also, more light coming from underneath when closed. I’ll contend with that on my own.

Amazing that for a second time, I dropped off my trailer at 9:30 and picked it up after lunch.

[TxLoser]

Well, after bragging about my quick install I’m eating my words. Took a closer look today and found some issues. I’ll be taking it back to get it right.

Measured 3” from gear rack to edge of frame on the lower front corner. Also found the clamp bracket needs to be moved to allow for both screws to be installed. Not as critical as the other 3 clamps are good. It’s a shame too as the slide works really well. Better than it did when new.

[Rock]

I am confused, what is a clamp bracket and what screws are you talking about?
Rock

[klassic]

Looks exactly like my recent crappy install.
If it’s the left side, looking at the slide from the outside.
Then that’s the “fixed” side. There should be a rivet that holds the bearing block to the column. There is a hole in the center of the bearing block, so once the rivet is installed it would keep the 2 1/2” distance.
My bottom measurement is in spec with rivet installed, and the top is 2 3/4” with the rivet installed. I can only assume they drilled another hole in the bearing block to put the rivet in, or the river has snapped and I see the head still stuck in the hole.
Just to see if yours is even more coincidentally like mine…look at the bottom rollers and see if they aren’t touching the floor. I slid in the wooden shim (in the picture) to show how big the gap is. (Picture is displaying sideways)

[TxLoser]

The clamp bracket is this. Tech couldn’t install the top screw because it would have interfered with the mechanism on the back side. Hard to see as both the bracket and frame are black.