Schwintek question

[TxLoser]

Originally Posted by klassic

Looks exactly like my recent crappy install.
If it’s the left side, looking at the slide from the outside.
Then that’s the “fixed” side. There should be a rivet that holds the bearing block to the column. There is a hole in the center of the bearing block, so once the rivet is installed it would keep the 2 1/2” distance.
My bottom measurement is in spec with rivet installed, and the top is 2 3/4” with the rivet installed. I can only assume they drilled another hole in the bearing block to put the rivet in, or the river has snapped and I see the head still stuck in the hole.
Just to see if yours is even more coincidentally like mine…look at the bottom rollers and see if they aren’t touching the floor. I slid in the wooden shim (in the picture) to show how big the gap is. (Picture is displaying sideways)

That’s one thing I didn’t check. I’ll have to take a look. I was so focused on the rack itself.

I do know my wall wasn’t cut very straight, so that’s part of the issue. But, I don’t care to pay for a whole new wall.

[Rock]

Klassic,
If your slide is not touching the rollers what is holding it up besides the side rails. I would think the bearing block would shear with the slide weight on it. I was told the assy comes complete with all rivets done at the factory. That is why the S/N is on the column. They send a complete Assy Exactly the same even the holes drilled. The techs use the same screw holes or add more if the metal inside the wall is stripped out.

[Rock]

Originally Posted by TxLoser

The clamp bracket is this. Tech couldn’t install the top screw because it would have interfered with the mechanism on the back side. Hard to see as both the bracket and frame are black.

Attachment 86546

Mine came with missing screws in both brackets. Jayco said they do nothing. The factory uses then to hold and position the channel to the FW wall while they drill the holes.

[TxLoser]

Originally Posted by Rock

Mine came with missing screws in both brackets. Jayco said they do nothing. The factory uses then to hold and position the channel to the FW wall while they drill the holes.

Good to know. That makes me feel better about that part.

[RoadrunnerII]

Guys
We had a repair done at the factory where on the inside 5vr wall where the racks run a metal plate was added
Front, back, top and bottom
In the wall the H channel was flexing causing the motors to get out of sync

Here's a picture of what shows when slide is out

Just for context.
Slide has worked pretty consistently ever since... Rapping on wooden brain

RoadrunnerII

[klassic]

Originally Posted by Rock

Klassic,
If your slide is not touching the rollers what is holding it up besides the side rails. I would think the bearing block would shear with the slide weight on it. I was told the assy comes complete with all rivets done at the factory.

They used to send them assembled complete with the gear racks on and temp spacer bars attached to the gear racks to keep them spaced properly, in a crate… but now they send all the parts in a tube.
I guess when they have to ship out so many repairs it was cheaper to send them unassembled.

I’m assuming the slide is being held up by the v rollers. I’ll be fixing it myself in the spring. They don’t get to touch this anymore.
I’m still waiting on an explanation from them about why the H columns are covered in spray foam.
(Sideways pictures again)

[Rock]

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

Guys
We had a repair done at the factory where on the inside 5vr wall where the racks run a metal plate was added
Front, back, top and bottom
In the wall the H channel was flexing causing the motors to get out of sync

Here's a picture of what shows when slide is out

Just for context.
Slide has worked pretty consistently ever since... Rapping on wooden brain

RoadrunnerII Attachment 86547

I have heard of that as a fix for wall flex. That is one reason that caused the H channel screws to shear. Was your fix done under the two year warranty?

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by Rock

I have heard of that as a fix for wall flex. That is one reason that caused the H channel screws to shear. Was your fix done under the two year warranty?

Yes first year on return from Texas then Florida then home. Stopped in Middlebury on way back because we could not put slide in or out without it racking badly.
Mobile tech said factory fix required

RoadrunnerII

[Rock]

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

Guys
We had a repair done at the factory where on the inside 5vr wall where the racks run a metal plate was added
Front, back, top and bottom
In the wall the H channel was flexing causing the motors to get out of sync

Here's a picture of what shows when slide is out

Just for context.
Slide has worked pretty consistently ever since... Rapping on wooden brain

RoadrunnerII Attachment 86547

Originally Posted by klassic

They used to send them assembled complete with the gear racks on and temp spacer bars attached to the gear racks to keep them spaced properly, in a crate… but now they send all the parts in a tube.
I guess when they have to ship out so many repairs it was cheaper to send them unassembled.

I’m assuming the slide is being held up by the v rollers. I’ll be fixing it myself in the spring. They don’t get to touch this anymore.
I’m still waiting on an explanation from them about why the H columns are covered in spray foam.
(Sideways pictures again)

I do believe the H channel is fully assembled and they just tape the two tracks to the H channel and put all that into a tube. Way easier to ship like u said.

[TxLoser]

I’m starting to regret letting them “fix” mine. For all it’s missing screws it still went out and came back in for 3+ years. Never even went out of sync. I think I opened Pandora’s box.

[Rock]

Klassic,
My v rollers spun free for a month or two after the install. Now they are just like the bedroom. Cannot turn any of them. I need to get off my butt and order, cut and install HDPM on bedroom slide and add thicker or double up the kitchen ones. I want to take some weight off those v rollers. I also started using those air wedges inside. When closed I put one under the floor at each end and one center. I pump them enough to feel the slide just raise a tad. I am hoping that will keep it from bouncing and straining the gib block.

[Rock]

Originally Posted by TxLoser

I’m starting to regret letting them “fix” mine. For all it’s missing screws it still went out and came back in for 3+ years. Never even went out of sync. I think I opened Pandora’s box.

Mine was fine for all them years until the tq shaft fell out driving on the interstate. Read my post about that disaster (catastrophic disaster on the interstate).I installed Teflon blocks under all the tq shafts. Bedroom can not fall out just drop about an inch. Kitchen ones can drop down onto the highway. Been there done that.
Rock

[TxLoser]

Originally Posted by Rock

Mine was fine for all them years until the tq shaft fell out driving on the interstate. Read my post about that disaster. I installed Teflon blocks under all the tq shafts. Bedroom can not fall out just drop about an inch. Kitchen ones can drop down onto the highway.
Rock

I remember that one. That sounded terrible.

When you guys mention V rollers do you mean the single rollers under the gear rack. Should those move freely? Mine never have on either slide when extended.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by TxLoser

I remember that one. That sounded terrible.

When you guys mention V rollers do you mean the single rollers under the gear rack. Should those move freely? Mine never have on either slide when extended.

Not necessarily freely, but you should be able to make them rotate.
If they won’t turn at all, then the slide weight is on them.

[JaycoAl]

TxLoser, sorry to read this. Hope they get it to your satisfaction when you take it back.

[JaycoAl]

Today I finally got around to beginning the fix for the slide. I jacked the slide up to its original position and the gib lined up perfectly with the holes. The gib was still in place so I used a 9/64 drill bit to remove some of the rivet left behind. I was then able to remove the gib and get the rest of the rivets out. I had rivets of the same size and used them to reinstall the gib. Haven’t removed the jack that holds the slide in place yet. I’ll try to fix the upper gib tomorrow. Maybe. Sorry about the sideways pics.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by JaycoAl

Today I finally got around to beginning the fix for the slide. I jacked the slide up to its original position and the gib lined up perfectly with the holes. The gib was still in place so I used a 9/64 drill bit to remove some of the rivet left behind. I was then able to remove the gib and get the rest of the rivets out. I had rivets of the same size and used them to reinstall the gib. Haven’t removed the jack that holds the slide in place yet. I’ll try to fix the upper gib tomorrow. Maybe. Sorry about the sideways pics.

You should just take it all apart and get the rebuild kit, then put it back together where the slide wants to sit now.
Or find out why it dropped and see what needs to be done to make the rollers all flat again.
I had to jack my fridge side floor and weld new floor supports to get rid of the droop.
Then the H columns go back on to what ever new position the slide is at.
It’s not that hard to take it all apart.

[RipinSC]

Originally Posted by JaycoAl

I've got the rivets. I'm supposed to get the numbers off of the sticker on the slide mechanism and email to LCI but I'll just ask the length of the rivets and hope I can align the original holes when I jack it back up to its correct position.

I just saw the same issue with both rivets sheared on the outboard gib on my large kitchen slide. Inner gib looks good. All other gibs look good. I pulled the gib out, drilled out the old rivet and put 2 new rivets in. Slide has not dropped and everything was lined up. I lube the gibs every time before a trip. Wonder what would cause this to shear?

[Rock]

Probable bouncing down the highway. That is why I placed those inflatable bags under the slide inside when closed. You can see how far the slide tilts down towards the floor when closed. I pump the bags up to raise the slide about 1/2 inch.

[JaycoAl]

Originally Posted by klassic

You should just take it all apart and get the rebuild kit, then put it back together where the slide wants to sit now.
Or find out why it dropped and see what needs to be done to make the rollers all flat again.
I had to jack my fridge side floor and weld new floor supports to get rid of the droop.
Then the H columns go back on to what ever new position the slide is at.
It’s not that hard to take it all apart.

Even though the slide works fine while being a half inch droopy on one side, I can’t leave it like it is. The lower side is rubbing the carpet. Not enough to rip it but enough to push the pile down.
I’m not satisfied with the rivets I installed as the pin pulled out instead of breaking off. This could be why it dropped to start with since the barrel of the rivet is not strong enough to withstand a bumpy ride. If the next rivets I install do the same, I’ll drill them out, thread the gib and fasten it with screws. The original pins were not there either. The slide bottom is not flattened by the roller and is still touching but I’ll likely put HPDE between the two for additional support.