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10-23-2022, 07:44 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Greensboro
Posts: 124
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Schwintek question
[/QUOTE]I've been having issues with the lightest slide on the rv and upon closer inspection found the top and bottom rivet on the fwd part of the slide gone. The rivets are still intact on all the other slides. Does anyone know the purpose of these rivets and what they hold in place? It's obvious that the slide is sitting lower than it should and I have an open case with Lippert concerning this issue but i have yet to see anything on Youtube concerning this.
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10-23-2022, 08:38 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Mexico Beach
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It holds the bearing block or gib together.
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10-23-2022, 09:03 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Thanks Rock. Should be a fun fix.
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10-23-2022, 09:42 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
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If it is just a sheared rivet replace it. Call LCI they are just pop rivets but u need the right length.
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10-23-2022, 05:14 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
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I've got the rivets. I'm supposed to get the numbers off of the sticker on the slide mechanism and email to LCI but I'll just ask the length of the rivets and hope I can align the original holes when I jack it back up to its correct position.
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10-30-2022, 02:13 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: smithville, ont.
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The rivet you are missing is a gib rivet. It holds the gib to the column. The rivets in the picture Rock posted are for when replacing the bearing blocks. The black ones are shear rivets, they are made of plastic and go in just to hold the bearing blocks in position on the “moving” side, when installing, until the block needs to move…then they shear off. The steel ones are for the “fixed” side…they hold the bearing block to the column and keep it there. This side can’t move on the gibs.
You’ve sheared off the rear gib rivet and I would assume the front one is gone too, and most likely the gib has fallen out. Those rivets aren’t supposed to break off.
In my picture, the arrow is pointing to the gib and the rivet you see, in the same picture, is the front rivet ( it’s under the seal) and the other picture is the rear rivet you’ve lost. Look and see if your gib is still there.
And yes, in your picture …the way the track is positioned in relation to the weather strip isn’t right at all. I’m assuming it’s all related.
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10-30-2022, 06:07 PM
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#7
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Thanks klassic! I haven't taken the time to look at it this week but I sure do appreciate your detailed information.
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11-06-2022, 04:11 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Norwood
Posts: 31
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Sorry to be negative here but with these swinteck you are always going to be working on them more than the time you can enjoy your rv. Been there done that watched this video that video till DW said get rid of it! Did what she said traded it in and have been a HAPPY camper since then. But good luck
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11-06-2022, 06:30 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Cincinnati
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One more thing to check. The gear track doesn't hold the weight of the slide, it just pushes it in and out. There are rollers on the bottom of the slide box that are bolted to the floor. The box rides on them. You can see them from the outside behind the bottom weatherstrip.
If your slide has dropped as far as it appears in that photo, one or more of your rollers (or the wood they roll on) must have failed.
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11-11-2022, 06:21 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
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Location: Greensboro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cincinnati Kid
One more thing to check. The gear track doesn't hold the weight of the slide, it just pushes it in and out. There are rollers on the bottom of the slide box that are bolted to the floor. The box rides on them. You can see them from the outside behind the bottom weatherstrip.
If your slide has dropped as far as it appears in that photo, one or more of your rollers (or the wood they roll on) must have failed.
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Correct you are! My hunch is the same and even though the FW is 100' from the house, I haven't extended the slide to inspect it. When I saw the holes where rivets used to be, I looked at the rollers and as expected, the box was sitting on them. I first need to jack up the slide to where it should be and then inspect the rollers.
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11-11-2022, 07:07 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
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Ok, been there done that. Your rollers are probably fine. Check your outriggers for bending. We have all suffered from bouncing slides that break the gibs and then the slide drops some. Everything settles and the bouncing breaks the gibs. Is the bottom of your slide grooved in from the rollers? That will drop the slide and break the grubs. That is why we add the slide roller pads. Schwintec is a piece of garbage for big slides.
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11-11-2022, 08:03 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Cincinnati
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock
Ok, been there done that. Your rollers are probably fine. Check your outriggers for bending. We have all suffered from bouncing slides that break the gibs and then the slide drops some. Everything settles and the bouncing breaks the gibs. Is the bottom of your slide grooved in from the rollers? That will drop the slide and break the grubs. That is why we add the slide roller pads. Schwintec is a piece of garbage for big slides.
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Good point. I noticed that when fairly new, almost all of the outrigger nuts on both sides had come loose or were never tightened. Did not realize that people also had the floor sinking.
Do you know where I can order the slide roller pads? I need 9 of them.
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11-12-2022, 07:56 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
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Wow 9 rollers, I have six on mine. Most people use aluminum, stainless or HDPE. I am gonna order a small sheet from eplastics. My bedroom slide is not even touching but one roller when closed about a ft. Fully open it appears to be touching from what I can see from outside. I just got in under the bed and seen that. The two rollers at the foot end are taking the weight.
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11-12-2022, 07:57 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Cincinnati
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock
Wow 9 rollers, I have six on mine. Most people use aluminum, stainless or HDPE. I am gonna order a small sheet from eplastics. My bedroom slide is not even touching but one roller when closed about a ft. Fully open it appears to be touching from what I can see from outside. I just got in under the bed and seen that. The two rollers at the foot end are taking the weight.
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I had 5, I added 4.
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11-12-2022, 08:11 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
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When my forward shaft fell down and dragged on the highway I discovered this. I could easily push the slide in and out (forward end) while the motor moved the back end. I have been thinking of adding a few more but do not want to cut that slide seal. And I would have to add more HDPE pads. I believe the pads are what made it roll so easy.
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11-17-2022, 10:11 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock
Wow 9 rollers, I have six on mine. Most people use aluminum, stainless or HDPE. I am gonna order a small sheet from eplastics. My bedroom slide is not even touching but one roller when closed about a ft. Fully open it appears to be touching from what I can see from outside. I just got in under the bed and seen that. The two rollers at the foot end are taking the weight.
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What thickness did / are you ordering? Also is there a guide on how to add the pads?
Thanks
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11-18-2022, 08:06 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
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Location: Mexico Beach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CwD
What thickness did / are you ordering? Also is there a guide on how to add the pads?
Thanks
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I am gonna order 1/8 inch. There is no guide people just make their own. Mine are wider than the roller mount to let u put small screws down each side. My length is the slide width. They touch against the inner bottom lip of slide and extend past the roller to the inside bottom trim lip. You cannot get screws any further past the bottom seal. The roller holds the rest up tight.
Rock
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11-18-2022, 02:31 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 44
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Took me a few to understand you can't get any screws past the bottom seal, but I get it now.
Thanks for your help.
My large kitchen slide started racking year one. Took it in for warrantee and they lubed the rollers, claimed they were dry. Worked great for year 2 and most of this year and it just started to rack again. I have not inspected yet, but I am wondering if the rollers are imbedding into the bottom of the slide. The pads seem like a great fix for that. Thanks again.
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11-18-2022, 04:03 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Mexico Beach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CwD
Took me a few to understand you can't get any screws past the bottom seal, but I get it now.
Thanks for your help.
My large kitchen slide started racking year one. Took it in for warrantee and they lubed the rollers, claimed they were dry. Worked great for year 2 and most of this year and it just started to rack again. I have not inspected yet, but I am wondering if the rollers are imbedding into the bottom of the slide. The pads seem like a great fix for that. Thanks again.
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Have you been lubing the gib block and keeping all the slide seals clean and lubed?
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11-18-2022, 06:27 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: DFW
Posts: 2,211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CwD
Took me a few to understand you can't get any screws past the bottom seal, but I get it now.
Thanks for your help.
My large kitchen slide started racking year one. Took it in for warrantee and they lubed the rollers, claimed they were dry. Worked great for year 2 and most of this year and it just started to rack again. I have not inspected yet, but I am wondering if the rollers are imbedding into the bottom of the slide. The pads seem like a great fix for that. Thanks again.
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Excuse the ignorance but what do you mean by “rack”?
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