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Old 12-20-2019, 06:52 PM   #341
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Originally Posted by AKRUEBBE View Post
Angus, since you have a slide within a slide, which slide did the crack appear?

Our crack is on the wall of the rig at the front lower corner of the outer slide, same as others.


Luckily we do not have a crack within a crack on our slide within a slide
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Old 12-21-2019, 11:07 AM   #342
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Dskyward - we have the exact same issue of the trim coming loose during travel on our 2017 Pinnacle 36 KPTS. Only on the door side of the bedroom though. We had the sidewall crack repaired in August this year.


Thanks Schooner. I figured I wasn’t alone on this. How are you combatting that loose trim? More staples, glue, nails or screws? Hope your crack repair lasts.
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Old 12-22-2019, 09:58 AM   #343
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Thanks Schooner. I figured I wasn’t alone on this. How are you combatting that loose trim? More staples, glue, nails or screws? Hope your crack repair lasts.
I tried larger, longer nails but that didn't work so I chose to ignore it for now. We've put 2,00 miles on it since the crack repair and good so far.
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Old 12-23-2019, 10:02 AM   #344
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I have the ceiling panel joint strips that come down. When the trailer flexes in travel the ceiling panels work the nails out of the steel roof trusses and the panels push the strips off. I've removed most of them and uses screws to hold the panels to the truss and then air nailed the strips back up.

My front closet moves during travel as well. I can see where there is rubbing between parts of the trim and the flat surface structure.
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Old 12-24-2019, 09:34 AM   #345
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I have the ceiling panel joint strips that come down. When the trailer flexes in travel the ceiling panels work the nails out of the steel roof trusses and the panels push the strips off. I've removed most of them and uses screws to hold the panels to the truss and then air nailed the strips back up.

My front closet moves during travel as well. I can see where there is rubbing between parts of the trim and the flat surface structure.


They should be wood. I too,have only a couple loose strips, but up in the master. I keep pushing them up. Very thin staples don’t have much holding power. Explains why they shoot thousands of staples. Here is a closeup look at a stack of 2016 North Point trusses. All wood, except for the steel tacks. Pretty interesting design, makes for strong roof. Factory tour was awesome.
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2017 Jayco North Point 377RLBH w/Kodiak disc brakes/Titan actuator, Truma AquaGo Comfort, Sailun S637, home of Darin & Dana. Where the 377 has been towed since 5/27/16:
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Old 12-25-2019, 02:21 AM   #346
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So... in light of this crack problem, as a prospective buyer of a Pinnacle 32RLTS, might I be advised to consider other options? Would you Jayco owners buy your rigs again, if you could have a do-over?
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Old 12-25-2019, 06:08 AM   #347
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I’ve owned different manufactured Fifth wheels and they all crack in the same place. Jayco is the only manufacturer that does not put the expansion / flex joint and mullein strip cover on their product at the factory. Jayco believes that their product/ frame is superior in that regard.
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Old 12-25-2019, 06:09 AM   #348
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So... in light of this crack problem, as a prospective buyer of a Pinnacle 32RLTS, might I be advised to consider other options? Would you Jayco owners buy your rigs again, if you could have a do-over?
As stated somewhere previously in this rather long thread: the crack issue isn’t only a Jayco problem, most other brands in the segment suffer the same issue.

Unless you don’t move your rig, or buy one without slides, or step up to the top brand tier with beefier frame construction, you’re at risk of cracking it seems.
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Old 12-25-2019, 12:43 PM   #349
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The only other brand that I know of beside some upper end brands like Spacecraft or New Horizons is Northwood MFG. I've never read about a crack from frame failure on their units. Of course they don't use Lippert frames and actually make their own. One of the few companies that do make their own. I've been a member of the owners forum for over 6 years up until we got our current TT and frame issues just aren't posted about very often.
NW is not for everyone as they don't do the bling stuff and are a little more subdued in style. They're built like a tank though.
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Old 12-25-2019, 01:14 PM   #350
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I have never had a 5th wheel, but do have a story about an incident at a camp. Typical camp set up where a backing-up fiver has to almost be perpendicular to the tow vehicle because of narrow roads and 50 foot long coaches. The poor schmo was backing and hadn't left enough angle for the tires to rotate. Rather, he exerted torque to the side of the coach and disconnected 30% of the coach sidewall from the frame. The sound was, well, snapping-crunching and not forgettable. I'm sure, under not so radical conditions, that a twisting frame can end with a crack.
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Old 12-25-2019, 01:40 PM   #351
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Thanks for the responses. We have been going back and forth in our minds about the short Mobile Suites (about 37') and the short Pinnacle (about 36'). BUT, the Mobile Suites is about $50k more money. Yes, in addition to a frame that is much less likely to crack you get disc brakes, 3.25" thick walls, fiberglass roof, beefier and smoother suspension, full body paint, yada, yada.

We could make the Mobile Suites work, but really don't want to spend that much money. On the other hand, if the likelihood is that we could avoid these crack issues, maybe, just maybe it would be worth spending that extra to avoid the hassle and trouble of dealing with cracks and also get a number of other upgrades.

We had pretty much decided to get the Pinnacle... until we read about all of these crack problems.

The Arctic Fox option is just not very appealing to us.
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Old 12-25-2019, 01:57 PM   #352
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Boils down to which one would look better sitting in the dealers repair facility and which one would be there more often.
IMO a used DRV/Spacecfaft/New horizons would be better than a new Pinnacle.
Not to mention real wood cabinet framing along with the dbl stack frame, etc.
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Old 12-26-2019, 03:25 AM   #353
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What do you guys think of doing this before the sidewall has a chance to crack:

Cut through the fiberglass layer of the sidewall, from the bottom/front corner of the slide opening, fill the cut with silicone, cover the cut with a trim piece, paint the trim piece to blend with the side wall color.

Would doing so effectively prevent the sidewall from cracking due to the stresses imposed during travel?
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Old 12-26-2019, 05:57 AM   #354
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What do you guys think of doing this before the sidewall has a chance to crack:

Cut through the fiberglass layer of the sidewall, from the bottom/front corner of the slide opening, fill the cut with silicone, cover the cut with a trim piece, paint the trim piece to blend with the side wall color.

Would doing so effectively prevent the sidewall from cracking due to the stresses imposed during travel?
Maybe. Maybe not. No one here knows the true root cause of the issue, I dare say the factory may not either given the amount of units that have cracked again after factory repair.

Another maybe is that Jayco may deny a warranty repair should your unit crack and you’ve already added this relief. I could see that happening due the fact that significant alteration to the wall would have been done. That’s a real dice roller.

At this price point, you’re rolling the dice with all makes and models. The Dreaded Crack is a risk you just happen to know about
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Old 12-26-2019, 06:12 AM   #355
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Placing a cut , expansion joint in that area is the current solution adopted by most of the manufacturers. Check out the pictures of other brands on the internet.
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Old 12-26-2019, 12:59 PM   #356
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Yes. I know that it's a risk to make the modification - as regards preserving warranty.

Perhaps the best course is to monitor closely while the unit is under warranty and act immediately for warranty repair at the first sign of a crack. Then, when the warranty expires, do the modification. It's a crap shoot, for sure.

With Jayco's 2/3 year warranty, I think the 3 year part is structural - does that mean that the cracking would be covered for 3 years?
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Old 12-26-2019, 01:15 PM   #357
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Why buy a new 5th wheel with a potential crack problem? There's many other brands that don't have this issue.
How many current owners would knowingly buy one again after having yours crack knowing that the next one could just as easily crack as well.
You're an RV MFG's dream customer.
Best case scenario it cracks under warranty.
Worst scenario it cracks out of warranty.
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Old 12-26-2019, 03:55 PM   #358
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It’s only in units that have the front slide outs
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Old 12-26-2019, 09:28 PM   #359
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Yes. I know that it's a risk to make the modification - as regards preserving warranty.

Perhaps the best course is to monitor closely while the unit is under warranty and act immediately for warranty repair at the first sign of a crack. Then, when the warranty expires, do the modification. It's a crap shoot, for sure.

With Jayco's 2/3 year warranty, I think the 3 year part is structural - does that mean that the cracking would be covered for 3 years?


I’ve thought of doing this. The crack is not structural and getting claims paid by Jayco after the 2 year warranty have been hit or miss for people. My warrant is up in four months (all sitting in my driveway waiting for camping season). My next trip I’m out of warranty. Already had it repaired once at Jayco. Hoping it doesn’t crack again.
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Old 12-26-2019, 11:51 PM   #360
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You guys beat me to this idea by about a day. I have a ‘19 377 that I bought used. Apparently the original owner (titled in June of this year) decided they made a mistake and needed a toy hauler. In any case, I halve no factory warranty but I do have a third party warranty for whatever that’s worth.
I work in the aviation industry and stop drilling is a pretty common practice. I see these cracks as the frame flexing and rigid fiberglass not being able to withstand the flex. I don’t see this as a structural failure. I have not heard of any of the models that are being discussed actually structurally failing. That would most definitely be a NHSTA issue and would result in a recall. All this to say, I’m not a member of the club....yet but I may proactively become one. I (we) need to look into what would be the best way to approach a relief cut. I like the idea of using and oscillating saw to cut from the corner of the slide out to the bottom of the wall. Silicone or similar and cover with a trim piece. Done!... except I’m not sure my balls are big enough to cut into my 5er!
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