Slide room trick & tips

[Lanced]

Looking for some tips and tricks on slide rooms. I have aJayco Eagle Fiver with 3 slides. 2 ( bed slide ) and kitchen/pantry are the Lippert worm drive system.aka four motors with exposed aluminum gear tracks, service tech told me the only way to stow manually woul be to remove facia plates unbolt motor assembly's and manually push in.On the dinett/ fireplace ent. Slide there is a different system 2 underbelly rails with gear teeth an rails, access is a removable underbelly panel to access motor Assy.
Very limited info in manuals dealer not much help either.Any tips would be greatly appreciated
Lanced

[robkelly]

A few things to keep in mind:
1. Be sure to level the rig when opening/closing the slides
2. Always open/close all the way at once - never stop the slide part way in/out
3. For the Schwintek slides (Kitchen & Bedroom), hold the button for another three to five seconds once you hear the motors stop working
4. On the curb side slide, release the button when the motor starts "clicking"

Our rig is currently at the dealer to have the kitchen slide repaired, and it is a pain in the neck to close manually - the motors (at the top corners only) are difficult to get to and the slide is HEAVY (it was all I could do to get it closed). The slide also needs to be travel locked once closed.

Dealer sent me the trouble shooting guide and if you're interested send me a PM and I'll send it along

[3'senough]

Originally Posted by Lanced

Looking for some tips and tricks on slide rooms. I have aJayco Eagle Fiver with 3 slides. 2 ( bed slide ) and kitchen/pantry are the Lippert worm drive system.aka four motors with exposed aluminum gear tracks, service tech told me the only way to stow manually woul be to remove facia plates unbolt motor assembly's and manually push in.On the dinett/ fireplace ent. Slide there is a different system 2 underbelly rails with gear teeth an rails, access is a removable underbelly panel to access motor Assy.
Very limited info in manuals dealer not much help either.Any tips would be greatly appreciated
Lanced

Know where your control board is for the Schwintec slides. It's a 5 x 5" black box with a white sticker over the front of it. On that sticker are error codes that relate to the flashing lights and a manual override button that can both retract and extract the slide. The motors have a brake that will only disengage with power so if someone was to hold the button in the direction one wants and another push you can move the slide. Only do this if the manual override does not work.

As stated above it is very important to never stop mid way on the worm drive systems. Hold the button down 3 seconds after it completes the motion to reset the end points. Once your slide becomes out of alignment it is only a matter of a few cycles before it binds up.

On the gear driven slides you can access the motor and manually crank on the gear drive to move the slide with a ratchet drive.

[dalebra]

Originally Posted by robkelly

The slide also needs to be travel locked once closed.

Is the travel lock something that needs to be manually done? Is this something extra or is it already there?

[robkelly]

It must be done manually. I ended up wedging a piece of 2x4 between the wall and the slide frame to hold it closed - last thing I needed was the slide coming open while heading down the interstate.

[klassic]

Robkelly, what was the problem with your slide?

[Fingerlakes]

Go to Lippert's web site and download/print all the manuals for the slide system-you'll be glad you did! Also, locate the "control" boxes for your slides BEFORE you have a problem. If you have 2 Schwintec slides then you will have 2 boxes. One of ours was in the "basement" and the other was in the cupboard in the 1/2 bathroom. The dealer even had trouble finding it! Also, if you have the leveling system you can get the manuals for that too. Again, you'll be glad you did!

[sailor]

Here are some interesting videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/LippertUniversity/videos

[3'senough]

Originally Posted by dalebra

Is the travel lock something that needs to be manually done? Is this something extra or is it already there?

If you have stripped gears or have removed the motors then nothing holds the slide in and you must wedge something in between the interior trim and wall. If you can push it in and out without touching the buttons then something manual should be done to prevent it from coming out on the road.

There used to be slide locks on older units, but I have not heard of them being used any longer.

[norty1]

I made a set using 3/4" PVC and crutch tips. Easy and store till needed. I'll post a pic later when I get to the camper.

The top 2 fit the br slide. The lower 2 will fit the large rear slides, depending on whether the spacer is added.
I store them under the sofa. I have used one set of them to get home when the gear box stripped.
I wedge them in on either end of the slide top inside. The slide can not move out when they are in place.

[robkelly]

Originally Posted by klassic

Robkelly, what was the problem with your slide?

This all started with DW noticing that the bottom corner of the slide hadn't sealed properly when I closed it.

It was binding on one side, but I couldn't figure out where it was binding. At one point it did close, but thinking it was the motors out of sync, I reopened to go through the resync process and it wouldn't budge from there. There were no codes on the control box either.

Once I pulled the motors I still couldn't get the slide to move until I released the leveling jacks - rig was level when I opened the slides. I initially thought maybe it had settled and that's what caused the binding, but that wouldn't account for the bottom corner that DW initially noticed not being sealed properly.

Rig is at the dealer now and I'll post an update once we know what the problem is/was.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by robkelly

This all started with DW noticing that the bottom corner of the slide hadn't sealed properly when I closed it.

It was binding on one side, but I couldn't figure out where it was binding. At one point it did close, but thinking it was the motors out of sync, I reopened to go through the resync process and it wouldn't budge from there. There were no codes on the control box either.

Once I pulled the motors I still couldn't get the slide to move until I released the leveling jacks - rig was level when I opened the slides. I initially thought maybe it had settled and that's what caused the binding, but that wouldn't account for the bottom corner that DW initially noticed not being sealed properly.

Rig is at the dealer now and I'll post an update once we know what the problem is/was.

That takes me back to a thread last year about whether the trailer should be levelled first or not.
It seems when the factory installs the slide the trailer is level, but the frame is at rest on top of its axels.
If the trailer is sitting in its natural state on top of the axels then shouldn't the slides be binding free, whether being level or not?

Once you level (with auto level I mean) the frame would have to stress and twist to some degree because the weight is coming off the axels.
That's not how the slides were installed at the factory.

I still wonder which is better.

[robkelly]

Originally Posted by klassic

That takes me back to a thread last year about whether the trailer should be levelled first or not.
It seems when the factory installs the slide the trailer is level, but the frame is at rest on top of its axels.
If the trailer is sitting in its natural state on top of the axels then shouldn't the slides be binding free, whether being level or not?

Once you level (with auto level I mean) the frame would have to stress and twist to some degree because the weight is coming off the axels.
That's not how the slides were installed at the factory.

I still wonder which is better.

It's got me thinking about it too as I agree with you. Granted the slides have only been opened/closed a half-dozen times so far (we got the rig in November) but each time it's been with the unit auto-leveled. The Owners Manual says to level before deploying the slides, but it's not specific about whether that means using the auto-level or not - my guess is no, as the manual is generic to Eagle, and not all have the auto-level system.

One of my discussion points with the dealer when we go to pick the rig up. I must admit, I am VERY happy with quality of service from them too. They did everything they could to get us up and running without having to undo the motors and bring the rig up to them

[Bookemdanno]

Originally Posted by robkelly

This all started with DW noticing that the bottom corner of the slide hadn't sealed properly when I closed it.

It was binding on one side, but I couldn't figure out where it was binding. At one point it did close, but thinking it was the motors out of sync, I reopened to go through the resync process and it wouldn't budge from there. There were no codes on the control box either.

Once I pulled the motors I still couldn't get the slide to move until I released the leveling jacks - rig was level when I opened the slides. I initially thought maybe it had settled and that's what caused the binding, but that wouldn't account for the bottom corner that DW initially noticed not being sealed properly.

Rig is at the dealer now and I'll post an update once we know what the problem is/was.

Ours is at the dealership to for a bunk room slide failure. The motor on one side completely died (was not fun to get in!) I was told that the motor is seized up and a new one has been ordered. I feel your pain!

I did same as you...leveled the unit 1st, then put slides out for our trip with no issues. Then when I went to put this slide in, the motor (closest to rear of trailer for this particular slide) had no juice!

[Rock]

Ya the level question has been brought up numerous times. As one person noted every Rv on every dealer lot for display has open slides and non r leveled.
On my last TT I used to of those adjustable poles that u use in pick up truck beds to hold stuff from moving. Cut both down in size till the fit my one slide as locks. I always used them but also added a flag so I would not forget to remove. On my TT the Lippert slide that is under the floor driven when fully closed u could rock it just slightly.
Rock

[robkelly]

Got our rig back today and it turns out there was nothing really wrong - the problem was unknowingly self inflicted.

We have the Ground Control auto-level system and our understanding was that we were to auto-level before extending the slides. Apparently though when you auto-level there is just enough flex in the unit to cause the slides to bind when closing - what our problem was.

Dealer ended up talking to Jayco while trouble shooting our rig and their recommendation is to extend slides and then auto-level. Reverse the process to close the slides.

Learn something new every day, and glad there was nothing seriously wrong.

[Bookemdanno]

Originally Posted by robkelly

Got our rig back today and it turns out there was nothing really wrong - the problem was unknowingly self inflicted.

We have the Ground Control auto-level system and our understanding was that we were to auto-level before extending the slides. Apparently though when you auto-level there is just enough flex in the unit to cause the slides to bind when closing - what our problem was.

Dealer ended up talking to Jayco while trouble shooting our rig and their recommendation is to extend slides and then auto-level. Reverse the process to close the slides.

Learn something new every day, and glad there was nothing seriously wrong.

Interesting concept...goes against everything I've ever been told. Ours is still at the dealership for our bunkhouse slide.

[klassic]

I'm pretty sure in that thread I mentioned above about whether to level or slide first, someone had talk to Jayco and they said to always level first.
That's why I went back to levelling first again.
It only makes sense to level first if you're levelling by blocking the tires.

[Paintinfool3]

agreed classic I level using blocks under wheels then tongue jack for front to rear and if I need a little tweak side to side I use 2 frame jacks I installed right in front of axles and then deploy slides. I would think if the trailer was unlevel by much side to side it would put strain on the slide motor and front to rear could cause slide to bind. Havent had any problems so far with the three slides no mine although the bedroom slide is single rail and gets a little jiggy on its way out or in

[jtw]

I would think you would still have the same flex when unit isn't level.

What do you guys recommend if any to lube the worm drive slides